2005 5.4 F150 Manifold Leak Fix
#1
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getting different answers by Ford, local repair shop and even on here (through searching this issue).
Problem is, #4 Manifold is leaking on passenger side. figured i would swap gaskets and hope the problem is resolved and not the manifolds that need replaced. so i called Ford and they want about $1000. local repair shop i have been to a few times (friend of a friend owns is), said he would do it for $450. People on here said they did it in their driveway in 1 day.
i am hearing the motor mounts need removed, ac compressor needs moved and engine needs to be lifted in order to move these out of the way / take out to put in new gaskets. of course, you have the "breaking studs" problem too.
so my question... should i attempt this in the driveway with help from a buddy or take it in somewhere. my tools consist of sockets, wrenches, etc etc. No motor lift or anything like that. i dont want to be stuck 1/2 way and have 2 gaskets and have to take everything in somewhere and say put it back together and have wasted all my time.
Problem is, #4 Manifold is leaking on passenger side. figured i would swap gaskets and hope the problem is resolved and not the manifolds that need replaced. so i called Ford and they want about $1000. local repair shop i have been to a few times (friend of a friend owns is), said he would do it for $450. People on here said they did it in their driveway in 1 day.
i am hearing the motor mounts need removed, ac compressor needs moved and engine needs to be lifted in order to move these out of the way / take out to put in new gaskets. of course, you have the "breaking studs" problem too.
so my question... should i attempt this in the driveway with help from a buddy or take it in somewhere. my tools consist of sockets, wrenches, etc etc. No motor lift or anything like that. i dont want to be stuck 1/2 way and have 2 gaskets and have to take everything in somewhere and say put it back together and have wasted all my time.
#5
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I wouldn't think so , if you needed to lift just the side your working on for easer access you could us a floor jack. If you think your up to it , go for it , it's not a complex job.
#6
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a friend at work said he would do it for $100 but i dont think he knows the complexity. even if it isnt too hard of a job, just time consuming. if anything i will enlist his help.
#7
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Bet the engine was ticking like it had a lifter or blown plug. Yep it most likely was (is) a right (passenger) side exhaust gasket leak. Could be loud if a big leak or a slight tick if a small leak. Just had mine fixed at a local shop for the second time. Cost: $ 265.00 First time it was about the same price that was at 38,000 miles 2nd time at 127,000 miles. First time they had to drill out and replace 2 bolts. 2nd time they had to drill out one of the bolts from the first time.
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#8
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yeah, ticking from the drivers side. plus i have a few exauhst leaks here and there. probably just going to weld those leaks and fix a hanger.
as for the gasket leak, i assume this is just the gasket? something like this? just a quick image i found. im sure its not the right one for me.
![](http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcsstore/CVWEB/staticproductimage//96/large/15781011_fel_ms96679_pri_larg.jpg)
what happens if i put it on and still ticking? manifold itself?
any way to check this when it is off/out? could i just weld the leak shut on the outside and be done?
as for the gasket leak, i assume this is just the gasket? something like this? just a quick image i found. im sure its not the right one for me.
![](http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcsstore/CVWEB/staticproductimage//96/large/15781011_fel_ms96679_pri_larg.jpg)
what happens if i put it on and still ticking? manifold itself?
any way to check this when it is off/out? could i just weld the leak shut on the outside and be done?
#9
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Most likely a right side gasket leak...Could be left side but the right side is what usually goes first. Yep could be the manifold not a gasket but again the gasket is usually the culprit. Don't hot weld the leaking area. You can cold weld using "JB" weld. Just let the "JB" set for about 1/2 hour until it feels like putty so it doesn't drip or run down. If your vehicle is older and you don't want to spend a lot of money on her then "JB". Remember getting the bolts out without breaking one or two would be a blessing. The gaskets look about right. Find the leak by squirting some soapy water aroung where you think the leak is or use your hand when the engine is cold..just be safe...always. Also "JB" tolerates quite a bit of heat put plenty on and maybe a second coat wouldn't hurt let it dry for at least 24 hours before running. I think my $265.00 was a good price cause getting to the manifold is difficult when you're a senior. Don't need to lift engine or anything like that but being young and limber helps,also drilling out a broken bolt isn't childs play. Good luck and let's hear what happened.
#10
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Yes it could be the manifold itself. Best to replace the manifold but this is somewhat costly,at least at dealer prices and steps to do the rest of the gasket change is the same like bolts breakage and drill out etc. Again you could "JB" weld the manifold and try that although I don't know anyone who has but cannot see why not.
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