Best contact for Ford to ask a simple question.........
08-01-2017, 11:45 AM
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for explaining your situation. I will say though, that you have some adjustment available with the WD and depending on where you are putting stuff in the trailer, it may or may not add 13% of that additional weight as tongue weight to the trailer hitch.
So in the end, the truck can haul what Ford and the salesman states it can, but just in very specific towing situations. You need to look into each individual set up to see what can and can't work for weights.
You officially take the lowest non-limited model trucks Payload that I have seen. I thought mine was awful @ 1263lbs. With the gear I carry and the stuff I have added to the truck, I only have 900lbs or remaining payload, before I max our my GVW (7200#'s)
So in the end, the truck can haul what Ford and the salesman states it can, but just in very specific towing situations. You need to look into each individual set up to see what can and can't work for weights.
You officially take the lowest non-limited model trucks Payload that I have seen. I thought mine was awful @ 1263lbs. With the gear I carry and the stuff I have added to the truck, I only have 900lbs or remaining payload, before I max our my GVW (7200#'s)
Here are my weights as described:
In KG's, I've converted to lbs...old school LOL
In my opinion, you need to take the weakest "link" in your setup. In the F150s, it appears to be the GAWR of the rear axle. I'm not trying to be argumentative but my truck has low GVWR ratings for a tow vehicle. Don't get me wrong....we LOVE our "new" truck. I'm just glad I did my research before buying the TT.
Last edited by Simnut; 08-01-2017 at 11:52 AM.
08-01-2017, 01:52 PM
#22
Senior Member
You can tighten up the WDH so you are transferring more to the front axles, it looks loose and based on the scale numbers and the tongue weight you described earlier. the WDH transferring very little to the front axle. I don't know what kind of tongue weight you see when you start filling tanks, etc. though.
The cap on the back is not helping at all as it probably weighs 200#'s at least. That would be adding to your rear GAWR#, impacting Payload and taking away 1500#'s you could add in weight to the trailer. With a properly set up WDH, most will run out of Payload before they run out of rear GAWR With your cap, you've already dropped to 900ish lbs of max payload
The GVWR on the white door sticker is not for the tow vehicle, it is the max weight that can be placed on your two axles (pending you don't exceed the GAWR of the front or rear). Includes hitch/tongue weight obviously
You need to consider the GCWR (gross combined vehicle weight rating). That is the maximum weight of the truck, it's contents and the trailer, it's contents.
Your GCWR is 13,500#'s. Your truck (guessing here without cap) is 6000#'s. so that leaves, 7500#'s for a trailer and all your contents (passengers, cargo, dogs). Hence why they state it can tow 7500#'s. We know in reality that 99% of folks don't just hop in the truck themselves and weigh 150#'s.
In the end, best you can do is tighten up the WDH, get some weight off of that rear axle OR ditch the cap and add that 200#'s back to your hauling ability. You need to play around with where you put what in the trailer and truck, but you can tow more than you are right now. But you are super close to the limit for LEGAL TT towing.
I find it silly that just because I have an EcoBoost that my tow rating jumps to 9600#'s and my GCWR is 15,500#'s. I do have a short box though, which ads 100#'s of towing capacity.
Hope this helps, we all want to tow more!
The cap on the back is not helping at all as it probably weighs 200#'s at least. That would be adding to your rear GAWR#, impacting Payload and taking away 1500#'s you could add in weight to the trailer. With a properly set up WDH, most will run out of Payload before they run out of rear GAWR With your cap, you've already dropped to 900ish lbs of max payload
The GVWR on the white door sticker is not for the tow vehicle, it is the max weight that can be placed on your two axles (pending you don't exceed the GAWR of the front or rear). Includes hitch/tongue weight obviously
You need to consider the GCWR (gross combined vehicle weight rating). That is the maximum weight of the truck, it's contents and the trailer, it's contents.
Your GCWR is 13,500#'s. Your truck (guessing here without cap) is 6000#'s. so that leaves, 7500#'s for a trailer and all your contents (passengers, cargo, dogs). Hence why they state it can tow 7500#'s. We know in reality that 99% of folks don't just hop in the truck themselves and weigh 150#'s.
In the end, best you can do is tighten up the WDH, get some weight off of that rear axle OR ditch the cap and add that 200#'s back to your hauling ability. You need to play around with where you put what in the trailer and truck, but you can tow more than you are right now. But you are super close to the limit for LEGAL TT towing.
I find it silly that just because I have an EcoBoost that my tow rating jumps to 9600#'s and my GCWR is 15,500#'s. I do have a short box though, which ads 100#'s of towing capacity.
Hope this helps, we all want to tow more!
08-01-2017, 02:09 PM
#23
Senior Member
Thread Starter
You can tighten up the WDH so you are transferring more to the front axles, it looks loose and based on the scale numbers and the tongue weight you described earlier. the WDH transferring very little to the front axle. I don't know what kind of tongue weight you see when you start filling tanks, etc. though.
The cap on the back is not helping at all as it probably weighs 200#'s at least. That would be adding to your rear GAWR#, impacting Payload and taking away 1500#'s you could add in weight to the trailer. With a properly set up WDH, most will run out of Payload before they run out of rear GAWR With your cap, you've already dropped to 900ish lbs of max payload
The GVWR on the white door sticker is not for the tow vehicle, it is the max weight that can be placed on your two axles (pending you don't exceed the GAWR of the front or rear). Includes hitch/tongue weight obviously
You need to consider the GCWR (gross combined vehicle weight rating). That is the maximum weight of the truck, it's contents and the trailer, it's contents.
Your GCWR is 13,500#'s. Your truck (guessing here without cap) is 6000#'s. so that leaves, 7500#'s for a trailer and all your contents (passengers, cargo, dogs). Hence why they state it can tow 7500#'s. We know in reality that 99% of folks don't just hop in the truck themselves and weigh 150#'s.
In the end, best you can do is tighten up the WDH, get some weight off of that rear axle OR ditch the cap and add that 200#'s back to your hauling ability. You need to play around with where you put what in the trailer and truck, but you can tow more than you are right now. But you are super close to the limit for LEGAL TT towing.
I find it silly that just because I have an EcoBoost that my tow rating jumps to 9600#'s and my GCWR is 15,500#'s. I do have a short box though, which ads 100#'s of towing capacity.
Hope this helps, we all want to tow more!
The cap on the back is not helping at all as it probably weighs 200#'s at least. That would be adding to your rear GAWR#, impacting Payload and taking away 1500#'s you could add in weight to the trailer. With a properly set up WDH, most will run out of Payload before they run out of rear GAWR With your cap, you've already dropped to 900ish lbs of max payload
The GVWR on the white door sticker is not for the tow vehicle, it is the max weight that can be placed on your two axles (pending you don't exceed the GAWR of the front or rear). Includes hitch/tongue weight obviously
You need to consider the GCWR (gross combined vehicle weight rating). That is the maximum weight of the truck, it's contents and the trailer, it's contents.
Your GCWR is 13,500#'s. Your truck (guessing here without cap) is 6000#'s. so that leaves, 7500#'s for a trailer and all your contents (passengers, cargo, dogs). Hence why they state it can tow 7500#'s. We know in reality that 99% of folks don't just hop in the truck themselves and weigh 150#'s.
In the end, best you can do is tighten up the WDH, get some weight off of that rear axle OR ditch the cap and add that 200#'s back to your hauling ability. You need to play around with where you put what in the trailer and truck, but you can tow more than you are right now. But you are super close to the limit for LEGAL TT towing.
I find it silly that just because I have an EcoBoost that my tow rating jumps to 9600#'s and my GCWR is 15,500#'s. I do have a short box though, which ads 100#'s of towing capacity.
Hope this helps, we all want to tow more!
I have taken that cap off (It's for sale hint hint hint) and put a toneau cover on the truck and yes, I eliminated some weight to the TV with that.
Am I missing what you are saying then? With my rear GAWR of 3850 lbs and I'm at 3615 lbs with me in the truck, full fuel how much do you think I can add to my total GVWR of 7350? Set my wife and dog in the truck and I don't think I can take another person. Good thing we plan on traveling with the two of us!
08-01-2017, 02:35 PM
#24
Senior Member
According to your weights, you're at 7032#'s GVW. Any weight you add to the cab (wife, dog) will essentially be split between the front and rear. Just using rough numbers, but adding 300#'s to the cab, will put approx. 150#'s on the rear axle. You're rear axle scale weight still looks higher than it should for the trailer and it's tongue weight (again, just going off of the numbers you posted, if you fill the tanks it probably changes things).
I would be going up a chain link on the bars and re-weigh. The truck does look a little low in the back, just a little. Roughly, your should see 1-2" drop at the rear wheel wells vs. unloaded. If you measure between the top of the tire and the wheel wells front and rear, they should be almost identical if not a touch high on the rear if you have a TW under 700#'s.
Empty, without the TT, what are your axle weights?
Nice trailer, I'm looking at something very similar in size.
I would be going up a chain link on the bars and re-weigh. The truck does look a little low in the back, just a little. Roughly, your should see 1-2" drop at the rear wheel wells vs. unloaded. If you measure between the top of the tire and the wheel wells front and rear, they should be almost identical if not a touch high on the rear if you have a TW under 700#'s.
Empty, without the TT, what are your axle weights?
Nice trailer, I'm looking at something very similar in size.
08-01-2017, 02:52 PM
#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
According to your weights, you're at 7032#'s GVW. Any weight you add to the cab (wife, dog) will essentially be split between the front and rear. Just using rough numbers, but adding 300#'s to the cab, will put approx. 150#'s on the rear axle. You're rear axle scale weight still looks higher than it should for the trailer and it's tongue weight (again, just going off of the numbers you posted, if you fill the tanks it probably changes things).
I would be going up a chain link on the bars and re-weigh. The truck does look a little low in the back, just a little. Roughly, your should see 1-2" drop at the rear wheel wells vs. unloaded. If you measure between the top of the tire and the wheel wells front and rear, they should be almost identical if not a touch high on the rear if you have a TW under 700#'s.
Empty, without the TT, what are your axle weights?
Nice trailer, I'm looking at something very similar in size.
I would be going up a chain link on the bars and re-weigh. The truck does look a little low in the back, just a little. Roughly, your should see 1-2" drop at the rear wheel wells vs. unloaded. If you measure between the top of the tire and the wheel wells front and rear, they should be almost identical if not a touch high on the rear if you have a TW under 700#'s.
Empty, without the TT, what are your axle weights?
Nice trailer, I'm looking at something very similar in size.
PS: I'm not sure if you caught that I did take off the cap.....on my truck. The cap on my head only gets removed for one thing and one thing only hehehehehe We do love the trailer AND the truck. It's great for us! My favorite part is the outdoor kitchen
Last edited by Simnut; 08-01-2017 at 02:55 PM.
08-01-2017, 04:25 PM
#26
Senior Member
I did see that you removed the cap. Good thing as you would be even tighter on weight.
You can tighten up your WDH and transfer more weight to the front. With the WDH set up, you'll be maxing out GVWR before the rear axle weight rating.
There is still some room to play, but not much. You'll be fine even if you added another passenger, but that ferry ride is gonna cost ya, lol.
You can tighten up your WDH and transfer more weight to the front. With the WDH set up, you'll be maxing out GVWR before the rear axle weight rating.
There is still some room to play, but not much. You'll be fine even if you added another passenger, but that ferry ride is gonna cost ya, lol.
08-01-2017, 04:49 PM
#27
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I did see that you removed the cap. Good thing as you would be even tighter on weight.
You can tighten up your WDH and transfer more weight to the front. With the WDH set up, you'll be maxing out GVWR before the rear axle weight rating.
There is still some room to play, but not much. You'll be fine even if you added another passenger, but that ferry ride is gonna cost ya, lol.
You can tighten up your WDH and transfer more weight to the front. With the WDH set up, you'll be maxing out GVWR before the rear axle weight rating.
There is still some room to play, but not much. You'll be fine even if you added another passenger, but that ferry ride is gonna cost ya, lol.
Actually, just checked!!! Under $100 to get off the island. Not bad......I thought it would be more
08-01-2017, 06:21 PM
#28
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I would be going up a chain link on the bars and re-weigh. The truck does look a little low in the back, just a little
That said, that looks to be a tidy package. I certainly won't be going anywhere near that size; I'll be building a rather large teardrop or very small "slouchy" travel trailer-sized teardrop/canned ham on one axle, with extra attention to tongue weight. I don't want much. In fact, I'm shooting for 7% to 9% maximum, on a 3500 lb, fully-loaded rig. I will not be using a WDH. We'll see how it weighs out before I travel, of course. Perhaps a WDH would be necessary.
Planning and preparing this stuff is fun. It's a great feeling knowing your rig is settled and stable when going down the road.
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Simnut (08-01-2017)
08-01-2017, 06:31 PM
#29
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Sir yes sir. I agree. I also think these trailer manufactures put too much stuff on the tongue, when with a little more design thought and effort these things could go on top of the trailer axles. Yes, propane tanks should stay outside... but the battery, etc... the utility tongue box, wheel chocks and so forth, while handy on the tongue should go elsewhere.
That said, that looks to be a tidy package. I certainly won't be going anywhere near that size; I'll be building a rather large teardrop or very small "slouchy" travel trailer-sized teardrop/canned ham on one axle, with extra attention to tongue weight. I don't want much. In fact, I'm shooting for 7% to 9% maximum, on a 3500 lb, fully-loaded rig. I will not be using a WDH. We'll see how it weighs out before I travel, of course. Perhaps a WDH would be necessary.
Planning and preparing this stuff is fun. It's a great feeling knowing your rig is settled and stable when going down the road.
That said, that looks to be a tidy package. I certainly won't be going anywhere near that size; I'll be building a rather large teardrop or very small "slouchy" travel trailer-sized teardrop/canned ham on one axle, with extra attention to tongue weight. I don't want much. In fact, I'm shooting for 7% to 9% maximum, on a 3500 lb, fully-loaded rig. I will not be using a WDH. We'll see how it weighs out before I travel, of course. Perhaps a WDH would be necessary.
Planning and preparing this stuff is fun. It's a great feeling knowing your rig is settled and stable when going down the road.
One thing Apples...is to make sure you have ENOUGH weight on the tongue. Too little and you have other issues . 9% may be safe, I'm not sure....they would like to see 10-13% . Both of you are very correct in it's going to be how we pack up. If you stay 1 lb under your GVWR's....you will be safe as the manufacturer has said those axles/vehicle/trailer is rated for that. The safety margin is already built into their numbers.
Happy trailing y'all!!!! Who know...we may meet somewhere, somehow...sometime.
Thanks for all the help to those that helped me get this straight!PS: Was a hoot to educate the CVSE at the scales!
Last edited by Simnut; 08-01-2017 at 06:34 PM.
08-01-2017, 11:38 PM
#30
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...make sure you have ENOUGH weight on the tongue. Too little and you have other issues . 9% may be safe,
He has pulled all kinds of these trailers, and many with little front-drive cars. At times, he said, all he'd have on the tongue would be 50 lbs...
The trick with our rigs that are larger and much heavier is to, if we want a less than 10% tongue, make sure we don't have much weigh at all aft of the trailer axle. In other words, load heavy on and just forward of the axle(s), and you won't need much tongue weight and you won't sway because the rig isn't tail-heavy, either.
This is all something to consider, really, when building something from scratch... and in my experience works well... but the trailer load has to be really detailed. Loading a trailer well, and weighing it as you go is lot of extra work and some folks just aren't willing to put forth the effort.
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Simnut (08-01-2017)