I would only tow a 5-6K trailer with a factory tow package. The truck would have the needed coolers,susp, wiring, etc. Remaking a truck for your needed would never be right.

 

You'll likely be fine to tow something with a dry weight of 5k-6k. Need to check your payload sticker though just for oeace of mind.

You'll want a weight distribution hitch for the trailer. I went with the equalizer 4 point. Seems like good quality, popular and around $600.

Have you narrowed down your trailer choices?

 

5000-6000 dry can quickly add up to 6000-7500 lbs after you get everything in the trailer. I don't care what the tow ratings say that is getting close to max for a 1/2 ton truck. And even then you need to choose carefully. Really need more info on your specific truck to know how much it will tow. The 9000 lb towing and 2000 lb payload listed in a manual is the max possible. They build very few trucks that will actually do that. Not just Ford, but all of them. Your old Tacoma is rated at 6500, in the real world 4000-4500 is more realistic.

Information needed:

4X4 or 4X2
Axle ratio
Payload.

The actual payload is on a yellow sticker on the drivers door jamb and there is an axle code on a white sticker. You can Google the axle code.

If you have 3.31 gears you'll struggle to pull a 6000 lb trailer. If you have 3.55's you'll struggle less, but still not ideal. If you have 3.73's then you're probably OK with PULLING the weight.

If your payload is 1800 lbs or more then you'll be OK on tongue weight, but you'll still have to pack the trailer carefully and not carry much in the truck. If you're closer to 1600 lbs payload you can probably still handle the weight, but not with passengers in the cab of the truck. Less than 1600, you don't have enough truck.

With the trailer you've chosen you're getting close to 3/4 ton territory. Some 1/2 ton's will handle it, but you do have to choose carefully. Much heavier and I'd not even consider a 1/2 ton truck.

I don't think anyone screwed you over deliberately. You just dealt with a salesman who wasn't terribly knowledgeable. And it happens all the time. There is at least one post here a week where someone bought a truck that wasn't enough to pull the trailer they want to pull.

 

Your maximum rating by the brochure is 9000 lbs. But, you are missing a lot of components from the towing package.

You have a 4-Pin wiring harness & added a trailer brake controller,

You are missing the following components:
1. Hitch Receiver
2. Higher-Power Cooling Fans
3. Radiator Upgrade
4. Smart Trailer Tow Connector
5. Upgraded Front Stabilizer Bar

Your truck is limited to 5000 lbs. trailer weight without the towing package (i.e., Items 1-5) per the 2019 towing guide. As mentioned by others, what is the payload rating on your yellow door sticker?

 

I dont think I can afford to buy a brand new trailer but I am linking to a 2021 Jayco Trailer floor plan that matches what I am looking for. I would turn the bunk house into a work space.
https://www.jayco.com/products/trave...-west/242bhsw/

I just am trying to figure out if I am better off taking an exchange on the truck or if I should just try to get some kind of re-fund to install the parts I need.

 

That depends on what the other trucks have on them. If the ‘18 in question is no better equipped, throwing a class 4 hitch and a few other goodies may be the best route. Looking at the ‘19 towing guide, you definitely need the radiator and the 7-pin plug. The 10-speed has a built-in cooler. Stabilizer bar will be nice to have, but the 53A/B towing packages have the goodies to get you passed 5,000 lbs towing.

Page 6 on the towing guide will show you this.

https://www.ford.com/cmslibs/content...F150_Oct25.pdf

I don't believe Ram messes with different frames like Ford does. A truck with 3.21 gears will max tow at about 8,000 lbs and 3.92 gears will top out around 10,000 if you have a 6-4 bedded Crew Cab. But, it’s going to get light in payload towing an RV.

As for homeboy with the 3000 lbs in the bed, hell, any of us can load a kid’s little red wagon with 1,000 lbs, but it won’t end well eventually.

Oh, now you know why that guy ain’t selling at a Ford dealer.

 

With a f150 that's doesn't have a hitch then it doesn't have the additional tow package stuff and the larger radiator and oil cooler is kind of important.
If you get a 5.0, get the 3:73 rear or if need be a 3:55 but nothing else. Make sure it has a factory tow hitch bolted on the frame so you know it has the tow package items.
Most importantly open the door and make sure the available payload says 1800 lbs of cargo or more. With a XLT that should be pretty easy in that trim level.

 

Hard to believe a car salesman would tell you what you want to hear in order to make a sale.

 

Talk to U-Haul first. Take the truck there and let them figure it out. They are in this business and I have had more than one after market hitch set up from them with no issues.

 

Go back to the dealer and have them refund the cost of the hitch and hookups. Then go find yourself a good independent trailer business that also specializes in trailer hitches and truck accessories. Every medium size and larger city has them.

They can fix you up with the proper hitch and wiring. As far as I know, there is a hookup already under the dash for a trailer controller and there should be one on the rear trailer frame to hook a ready made harness to that might be 3' or so long. It's all plug in stuff.

Then you should be good to go. Sounds as if you'll not be moving your trailer very often anyway.

(I took delivery of my fifth wheel 5 years ago, and it's never been moved out of my campground. They put it on a campsite for me even.)