4WD Low
Find an Off-Road 4x4 shop, Not a ford dealership, the chances are they'll be able to diagnose and fix the problem for 1/2 to 1/10 the cost, fix it right the first time, and give you some real advice. Hope this helps.
If you don't use it, you lose it. Virtually all 4X4 issues can be traced back to operator error. Most owner's manuals recommend 10 miles/ month in 4X4 to keep everything lubricated and to prevent corrosion in electrical connections. IME 10 miles each and every month may be overkill, but I try for at least 2-3 miles most months. I won't skip 2 months and at certain times of the year I may get in 200-300 miles some months.
If the previous owner didn't use it regularly taking it out on a dirt or gravel road and giving it a long drive switching back and forth often will usually help. Or you may need to have the hubs taken apart, cleaned and reassembled. Possibly even some parts replaced.
Getting into, and out of lo range is often problematic with all 4X4's. The owner's manual doesn't say to be at a complete stop, it says to be stopped or moving under 3 mph. Often it will engage at a complete stop, but sometimes it won't. I like to stop on a slight incline and let the truck roll slowly in either direction as I'm engaging or disengaging low range. While it is technically possible to shift directly from 2wd to 4 low I find less issues doing it in 2 steps. Shift from 2wd to 4hi while driving. Once the shift is complete stop or slow under 3 mph, shift to neutral, then to 4 low. I find it easier to get out of 4low by going to 4hi, then once underway shift back to 2wd.
If you've been in low range getting out can be especially problematic. The gears often bind if you've been working the truck hard. Especially on a hard surface where it is borderline on even needing 4X4. Driving the truck in reverse 10-15', then pulling forward will help relieve the binding. You may have to repeat this little dance several times.
If you have a locking rear diff be sure to engage it occasionally too.
Avoid operating in 4X4 on a paved road, even wet pavement. Even off road on surfaces with good traction such as hard packed dirt. Doing so puts the entire drivetrain in a bind and will eventually lead to premature parts failure. Very limited use, if you drive in a straight line theoretically won't hurt anything. But I advise against doing it by design. Virtually everyone has a brain fart occasionally and does something like this for a short distance. I just don't recommend doing it by design . Get the truck out on a road with loose dirt or gravel when operating in 4X4 so there can be some wheel slippage without binding everything up.
If the previous owner didn't use it regularly taking it out on a dirt or gravel road and giving it a long drive switching back and forth often will usually help. Or you may need to have the hubs taken apart, cleaned and reassembled. Possibly even some parts replaced.
Getting into, and out of lo range is often problematic with all 4X4's. The owner's manual doesn't say to be at a complete stop, it says to be stopped or moving under 3 mph. Often it will engage at a complete stop, but sometimes it won't. I like to stop on a slight incline and let the truck roll slowly in either direction as I'm engaging or disengaging low range. While it is technically possible to shift directly from 2wd to 4 low I find less issues doing it in 2 steps. Shift from 2wd to 4hi while driving. Once the shift is complete stop or slow under 3 mph, shift to neutral, then to 4 low. I find it easier to get out of 4low by going to 4hi, then once underway shift back to 2wd.
If you've been in low range getting out can be especially problematic. The gears often bind if you've been working the truck hard. Especially on a hard surface where it is borderline on even needing 4X4. Driving the truck in reverse 10-15', then pulling forward will help relieve the binding. You may have to repeat this little dance several times.
If you have a locking rear diff be sure to engage it occasionally too.
Avoid operating in 4X4 on a paved road, even wet pavement. Even off road on surfaces with good traction such as hard packed dirt. Doing so puts the entire drivetrain in a bind and will eventually lead to premature parts failure. Very limited use, if you drive in a straight line theoretically won't hurt anything. But I advise against doing it by design. Virtually everyone has a brain fart occasionally and does something like this for a short distance. I just don't recommend doing it by design . Get the truck out on a road with loose dirt or gravel when operating in 4X4 so there can be some wheel slippage without binding everything up.
Thanks, I will double check again, I have had 3 people work on things with me and am pretty sure transmission was first thing checked as I was told low transmission fluid could be cause. I never have luck of something so easy. You can probably tell I am far from a mechanic but help, research and try to have answers when others come to help. I remember transfer case more because I was the one under truck, I dont think ever opened before as it was a nightmare to get open.
I believe my friend has a mobile mechanic who will look at if I don't have luck. If I understand right he charges $75-$100 per hour
If you don't use it, you lose it. Virtually all 4X4 issues can be traced back to operator error. Most owner's manuals recommend 10 miles/ month in 4X4 to keep everything lubricated and to prevent corrosion in electrical connections. IME 10 miles each and every month may be overkill, but I try for at least 2-3 miles most months. I won't skip 2 months and at certain times of the year I may get in 200-300 miles some months.
If the previous owner didn't use it regularly taking it out on a dirt or gravel road and giving it a long drive switching back and forth often will usually help. Or you may need to have the hubs taken apart, cleaned and reassembled. Possibly even some parts replaced.
Getting into, and out of lo range is often problematic with all 4X4's. The owner's manual doesn't say to be at a complete stop, it says to be stopped or moving under 3 mph. Often it will engage at a complete stop, but sometimes it won't. I like to stop on a slight incline and let the truck roll slowly in either direction as I'm engaging or disengaging low range. While it is technically possible to shift directly from 2wd to 4 low I find less issues doing it in 2 steps. Shift from 2wd to 4hi while driving. Once the shift is complete stop or slow under 3 mph, shift to neutral, then to 4 low. I find it easier to get out of 4low by going to 4hi, then once underway shift back to 2wd.
If you've been in low range getting out can be especially problematic. The gears often bind if you've been working the truck hard. Especially on a hard surface where it is borderline on even needing 4X4. Driving the truck in reverse 10-15', then pulling forward will help relieve the binding. You may have to repeat this little dance several times.
If you have a locking rear diff be sure to engage it occasionally too.
Avoid operating in 4X4 on a paved road, even wet pavement. Even off road on surfaces with good traction such as hard packed dirt. Doing so puts the entire drivetrain in a bind and will eventually lead to premature parts failure. Very limited use, if you drive in a straight line theoretically won't hurt anything. But I advise against doing it by design. Virtually everyone has a brain fart occasionally and does something like this for a short distance. I just don't recommend doing it by design . Get the truck out on a road with loose dirt or gravel when operating in 4X4 so there can be some wheel slippage without binding everything up.
If the previous owner didn't use it regularly taking it out on a dirt or gravel road and giving it a long drive switching back and forth often will usually help. Or you may need to have the hubs taken apart, cleaned and reassembled. Possibly even some parts replaced.
Getting into, and out of lo range is often problematic with all 4X4's. The owner's manual doesn't say to be at a complete stop, it says to be stopped or moving under 3 mph. Often it will engage at a complete stop, but sometimes it won't. I like to stop on a slight incline and let the truck roll slowly in either direction as I'm engaging or disengaging low range. While it is technically possible to shift directly from 2wd to 4 low I find less issues doing it in 2 steps. Shift from 2wd to 4hi while driving. Once the shift is complete stop or slow under 3 mph, shift to neutral, then to 4 low. I find it easier to get out of 4low by going to 4hi, then once underway shift back to 2wd.
If you've been in low range getting out can be especially problematic. The gears often bind if you've been working the truck hard. Especially on a hard surface where it is borderline on even needing 4X4. Driving the truck in reverse 10-15', then pulling forward will help relieve the binding. You may have to repeat this little dance several times.
If you have a locking rear diff be sure to engage it occasionally too.
Avoid operating in 4X4 on a paved road, even wet pavement. Even off road on surfaces with good traction such as hard packed dirt. Doing so puts the entire drivetrain in a bind and will eventually lead to premature parts failure. Very limited use, if you drive in a straight line theoretically won't hurt anything. But I advise against doing it by design. Virtually everyone has a brain fart occasionally and does something like this for a short distance. I just don't recommend doing it by design . Get the truck out on a road with loose dirt or gravel when operating in 4X4 so there can be some wheel slippage without binding everything up.
If you don't use it, you lose it. Virtually all 4X4 issues can be traced back to operator error. Most owner's manuals recommend 10 miles/ month in 4X4 to keep everything lubricated and to prevent corrosion in electrical connections. IME 10 miles each and every month may be overkill, but I try for at least 2-3 miles most months. I won't skip 2 months and at certain times of the year I may get in 200-300 miles some months.
If the previous owner didn't use it regularly taking it out on a dirt or gravel road and giving it a long drive switching back and forth often will usually help. Or you may need to have the hubs taken apart, cleaned and reassembled. Possibly even some parts replaced.
Getting into, and out of lo range is often problematic with all 4X4's. The owner's manual doesn't say to be at a complete stop, it says to be stopped or moving under 3 mph. Often it will engage at a complete stop, but sometimes it won't. I like to stop on a slight incline and let the truck roll slowly in either direction as I'm engaging or disengaging low range. While it is technically possible to shift directly from 2wd to 4 low I find less issues doing it in 2 steps. Shift from 2wd to 4hi while driving. Once the shift is complete stop or slow under 3 mph, shift to neutral, then to 4 low. I find it easier to get out of 4low by going to 4hi, then once underway shift back to 2wd.
If you've been in low range getting out can be especially problematic. The gears often bind if you've been working the truck hard. Especially on a hard surface where it is borderline on even needing 4X4. Driving the truck in reverse 10-15', then pulling forward will help relieve the binding. You may have to repeat this little dance several times.
If you have a locking rear diff be sure to engage it occasionally too.
Avoid operating in 4X4 on a paved road, even wet pavement. Even off road on surfaces with good traction such as hard packed dirt. Doing so puts the entire drivetrain in a bind and will eventually lead to premature parts failure. Very limited use, if you drive in a straight line theoretically won't hurt anything. But I advise against doing it by design. Virtually everyone has a brain fart occasionally and does something like this for a short distance. I just don't recommend doing it by design . Get the truck out on a road with loose dirt or gravel when operating in 4X4 so there can be some wheel slippage without binding everything up.
If the previous owner didn't use it regularly taking it out on a dirt or gravel road and giving it a long drive switching back and forth often will usually help. Or you may need to have the hubs taken apart, cleaned and reassembled. Possibly even some parts replaced.
Getting into, and out of lo range is often problematic with all 4X4's. The owner's manual doesn't say to be at a complete stop, it says to be stopped or moving under 3 mph. Often it will engage at a complete stop, but sometimes it won't. I like to stop on a slight incline and let the truck roll slowly in either direction as I'm engaging or disengaging low range. While it is technically possible to shift directly from 2wd to 4 low I find less issues doing it in 2 steps. Shift from 2wd to 4hi while driving. Once the shift is complete stop or slow under 3 mph, shift to neutral, then to 4 low. I find it easier to get out of 4low by going to 4hi, then once underway shift back to 2wd.
If you've been in low range getting out can be especially problematic. The gears often bind if you've been working the truck hard. Especially on a hard surface where it is borderline on even needing 4X4. Driving the truck in reverse 10-15', then pulling forward will help relieve the binding. You may have to repeat this little dance several times.
If you have a locking rear diff be sure to engage it occasionally too.
Avoid operating in 4X4 on a paved road, even wet pavement. Even off road on surfaces with good traction such as hard packed dirt. Doing so puts the entire drivetrain in a bind and will eventually lead to premature parts failure. Very limited use, if you drive in a straight line theoretically won't hurt anything. But I advise against doing it by design. Virtually everyone has a brain fart occasionally and does something like this for a short distance. I just don't recommend doing it by design . Get the truck out on a road with loose dirt or gravel when operating in 4X4 so there can be some wheel slippage without binding everything up.
i live in cold/snowy climate and have always just made a point to use my 4x4 on snowy conditions whether I “need to” or not. However, I have been guilty of not regularly using 4x4 low (and typically not using either in non snow months). Have thought back about your post and have been taking opportunity to use both 4hi and 4low recently when driving on gravel roads. My follow up question:
? when it comes to using/exercising 4x4 ( hi and low ) what is more important: putting it in and out of gear selection (4H and 4L and back to 2h), OR actually getting some miles/distance in each selection? Importance of going through all 4 gears on 4L? Any reason to also use reverse? Appreciate any additional info/suggestions you may provide.








