2017 F150 Purchase Advice
10-13-2017, 09:53 AM
#1
2017 F150 Purchase Advice
Hey All, I am going to finalize on a deal this evening and I have a few choices and am looking for a bit of input. Here are the following vehicles I am debating between.
1. XLT with 302A (Chrome, 60/40/60, Magentic, 2.7L)
2. XLT with 302A (Chrome, 60/40/60, Black, 2.7L and Sync Connect)
3. XLT Sport with 301A (Black, 5.0L) I would have to do an Audio upgrade to get rid of the 4.2" Stereo
All, of these are withing $650 of each other.
4. XL STX (Black, 2.7L) this is $650 less than the XLT's (Has Sync 3 so I can use Carplay)
Plans are to give it a 2.5" Level and do wheels and tires.
Any input would be appreciated as I will be doing simple MODs etc. I really like the center console but not sure if it is that big of a deal when you look at the added option of the 302A package.
1. XLT with 302A (Chrome, 60/40/60, Magentic, 2.7L)
2. XLT with 302A (Chrome, 60/40/60, Black, 2.7L and Sync Connect)
3. XLT Sport with 301A (Black, 5.0L) I would have to do an Audio upgrade to get rid of the 4.2" Stereo
All, of these are withing $650 of each other.
4. XL STX (Black, 2.7L) this is $650 less than the XLT's (Has Sync 3 so I can use Carplay)
Plans are to give it a 2.5" Level and do wheels and tires.
Any input would be appreciated as I will be doing simple MODs etc. I really like the center console but not sure if it is that big of a deal when you look at the added option of the 302A package.
10-13-2017, 10:21 AM
#2
Senior Member
Normally I would say go with the most capable truck that fits your requirements, but thats not really a cut-and-dry answer.
For the sake of $650, I would ditch the #4 option and take the extra features the XLT gives you. I bought an XL because I wanted the barebones work truck.
So Between 1-2-3, I would eliminate #3. If your going to do a level/lift, your probably gonna ditch a lot of the "sport" components, and unless you really need the extra power of the 5.0 or love that v8 sound, not worth it in my opinion.
So that leaves 1 and 2. The center console is something that can be added after the fact from a scrapyard. From what you've put up here the only difference between 1 and 2 is Sync connect and color.
Color is a personal prefference so Im not going to go into that. But the sync connect could be a good feature. If you want it, go for #2. If you dont need it, go with #1.
For the sake of $650, I would ditch the #4 option and take the extra features the XLT gives you. I bought an XL because I wanted the barebones work truck.
So Between 1-2-3, I would eliminate #3. If your going to do a level/lift, your probably gonna ditch a lot of the "sport" components, and unless you really need the extra power of the 5.0 or love that v8 sound, not worth it in my opinion.
So that leaves 1 and 2. The center console is something that can be added after the fact from a scrapyard. From what you've put up here the only difference between 1 and 2 is Sync connect and color.
Color is a personal prefference so Im not going to go into that. But the sync connect could be a good feature. If you want it, go for #2. If you dont need it, go with #1.
10-13-2017, 10:35 AM
#3
Plasma, Thanks for your feedback I was leaning the same way. I have been a Black vehicle guy for ever but the upkeep is starting to wear on me so I am thinking Magnetic might be the way to go.
10-13-2017, 11:10 AM
#4
Senior Member
1 or 2! If you like chrome...
I prefer the sport appearance package since the bumpers are color match to the body and the grill is nicer, but I wouldn't sacrifice all the things the 302a package gives you.
I prefer the sport appearance package since the bumpers are color match to the body and the grill is nicer, but I wouldn't sacrifice all the things the 302a package gives you.
Last edited by Eduskator; 10-13-2017 at 11:34 AM.
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thchilson (10-13-2017)
10-13-2017, 11:31 AM
#5
Senior Member
I'd hold out and seek another vehicle in your area. Mostly find a vehicle that has the SPORT package. I don't know the full details but mine was a $300 option for the SPORT package. And the SPORT package comes with the center console which itself is a huge upgrade. Why they still offer that goofy fold down center seat on a XLT trim level is beyond me. Save that for the XL guys.
Anywho here's the link (if it works). Search local dealer inventory based on your search filter to find the truck that's right for you. YOU ARE NOT LIMITED TO JUST THE VEHICLE ON YOUR LOCAL DEALER LOT.
I found my truck.. well my dealer did.. and that's how I ended up with 90% of the vehicle I wanted. They didn't have anything on their lot that I was interested in.
Also if you finance - hit up as many banks as you can today for an auto loan. YOU going to the bank is the direct cut throat rate that they'll offer you with no middle man. This will also guide you into what type of APR you qualify for unless you got a credit score of >760 where you'd qualify for 0% and other well qualified offers.
Try to get at least 5 bank auto loan offers. Save info for the one with the lowest % offer. Lets say for example it's 1.99%
Your dealer runs your credit and says "lowest we got was 4.99%". Wait to see if you get more offers in (at the dealer) within about 15 or so minutes. See the lowest offer they were given.
Lets say for example they say "lowest offer we got was 4.99% from wells fargo". Well the offer you got from wells fargo personally was 1.99%. Ask them why they directly offered you a lower rate than them. Seek other dealer.
Reason for all this is because the dealer can mark up your APR% rate. Really wells fargo came back to them for 1.99% and they sell YOU marked up to 4.99%. They make 3% interest off of you for that transaction.
If you go this route - DO NOT MENTION your personally sourced out loans until all their offers are on the table. IF they are able to get you a lower rate by all means take their offer. Say you get 1.99% and they say you qualify for 0% - you'd be a fool to not take a lower rate the dealer offers because yes - their out reach is FAR greater than you sitting in front of the computer for an hour or two today.
But if they don't beat the rate you got personally - say "this is the auto loan I'd like to use. Here's all the info. Lets do up the paperwork".
Another reason to not mention your personal auto loan search to them is because you'll negotiate the price of the vehicle. That extra $2k they took off to get you to where you want to be? That's where that increased APR rate on their end comes into play. It's a numbers game.
Further more they will ask you "how much do you want to pay each month?". Who cares. KNOW how much you can spend!
The cost of the vehicle is just that. It's a fixed cost of waterever you negotiate. Lets say a $50k truck and you nailed em down to $40k. That cost isn't going to change at all. Your monthly payments will ALWAYS be $40k over 10, 17, 35, 56, 99 months. Where your monthly payments will change from the $40k over XX months will be the interest, respectfully.
So work up some numbers of if the vehicle cost me XXX amount and if this % interest is applied to the loan - that = my monthly payments.
Why is this important? Because if you say "Id like to pay MAX $600 a month". Well... their vehicle purchase price negotiations and APR hikes will reflect as close to that $600 a month they can snag you up for.
Don't even play that "Id like to pay this much a month". Work those numbers out on your own so YOU know what you can afford and when nailing down the price of the vehicle - you already know giver or take where the numbers will end.
Of course if you lease a vehicle, majority of this goes out the window lol
But I'm sure my post will help some folks out.
Anywho here's the link (if it works). Search local dealer inventory based on your search filter to find the truck that's right for you. YOU ARE NOT LIMITED TO JUST THE VEHICLE ON YOUR LOCAL DEALER LOT.
I found my truck.. well my dealer did.. and that's how I ended up with 90% of the vehicle I wanted. They didn't have anything on their lot that I was interested in.
Also if you finance - hit up as many banks as you can today for an auto loan. YOU going to the bank is the direct cut throat rate that they'll offer you with no middle man. This will also guide you into what type of APR you qualify for unless you got a credit score of >760 where you'd qualify for 0% and other well qualified offers.
Try to get at least 5 bank auto loan offers. Save info for the one with the lowest % offer. Lets say for example it's 1.99%
Your dealer runs your credit and says "lowest we got was 4.99%". Wait to see if you get more offers in (at the dealer) within about 15 or so minutes. See the lowest offer they were given.
Lets say for example they say "lowest offer we got was 4.99% from wells fargo". Well the offer you got from wells fargo personally was 1.99%. Ask them why they directly offered you a lower rate than them. Seek other dealer.
Reason for all this is because the dealer can mark up your APR% rate. Really wells fargo came back to them for 1.99% and they sell YOU marked up to 4.99%. They make 3% interest off of you for that transaction.
If you go this route - DO NOT MENTION your personally sourced out loans until all their offers are on the table. IF they are able to get you a lower rate by all means take their offer. Say you get 1.99% and they say you qualify for 0% - you'd be a fool to not take a lower rate the dealer offers because yes - their out reach is FAR greater than you sitting in front of the computer for an hour or two today.
But if they don't beat the rate you got personally - say "this is the auto loan I'd like to use. Here's all the info. Lets do up the paperwork".
Another reason to not mention your personal auto loan search to them is because you'll negotiate the price of the vehicle. That extra $2k they took off to get you to where you want to be? That's where that increased APR rate on their end comes into play. It's a numbers game.
Further more they will ask you "how much do you want to pay each month?". Who cares. KNOW how much you can spend!
The cost of the vehicle is just that. It's a fixed cost of waterever you negotiate. Lets say a $50k truck and you nailed em down to $40k. That cost isn't going to change at all. Your monthly payments will ALWAYS be $40k over 10, 17, 35, 56, 99 months. Where your monthly payments will change from the $40k over XX months will be the interest, respectfully.
So work up some numbers of if the vehicle cost me XXX amount and if this % interest is applied to the loan - that = my monthly payments.
Why is this important? Because if you say "Id like to pay MAX $600 a month". Well... their vehicle purchase price negotiations and APR hikes will reflect as close to that $600 a month they can snag you up for.
Don't even play that "Id like to pay this much a month". Work those numbers out on your own so YOU know what you can afford and when nailing down the price of the vehicle - you already know giver or take where the numbers will end.
Of course if you lease a vehicle, majority of this goes out the window lol
But I'm sure my post will help some folks out.
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10-13-2017, 01:17 PM
#8
Senior Member
-Have pre approval from credit union
-Get your price, go with whatever bank the dealer chooses/Ford financing to maximize rebates. Forget the 0% because you'll lose rebates that way.
-Get first bill from Ford/whatever bank they chose in the mail.
-Take it to your credit union, switch and get the original awesome rate.
-Throughout all of this, ignore all bs the dealer tells you about "waiting 3-6 months" before you refinance. Then ignore the forum members who act like they sleep better at night knowing they "took care of their dealer" because they waited. Delusional.
-Enjoy your new truck and comfortable payment. Your CU may even have special loans to tack on to use for modifications or even offer to defer the first few for you.
-Get your price, go with whatever bank the dealer chooses/Ford financing to maximize rebates. Forget the 0% because you'll lose rebates that way.
-Get first bill from Ford/whatever bank they chose in the mail.
-Take it to your credit union, switch and get the original awesome rate.
-Throughout all of this, ignore all bs the dealer tells you about "waiting 3-6 months" before you refinance. Then ignore the forum members who act like they sleep better at night knowing they "took care of their dealer" because they waited. Delusional.
-Enjoy your new truck and comfortable payment. Your CU may even have special loans to tack on to use for modifications or even offer to defer the first few for you.