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thank you all for posting this !
this is my first post here at the forum
I just bought a used 2010 F150 5.4 4x4 3 days ago and this just happened to me when i came out of a restaurant
a search found this thread and saved me a tow bill and probably a $600 mechanic bill.
I was on the right track at finding it though, I called UBER for a ride and the guy who came out was rugged enough to ask if he could turn it over while I crawl under and listen for the fuel pump run momentarily, No Fuel pump hum at all so that was suapect immediately, never thought about checking the fuse
Thanks again
This thread and forum just saved me a ton of heart ache. Only had My 2010-6days and she was giving me this same problem. Replaced fuse and will get my dealership to bipass with the Ford replacement part next week.
Thnxxxs a ton guys.
Y'all diagnosed and fixed the problem in 20 mins where as my dealership couldn't
thanks again!!!
Thank you also, Ford2581, for your post. It just saved me also!
My fuse was even worse than the one in the quote below. (see my pics)
I also read further to see that there was a TSB for a relocation kit for this issue. I'll be calling my local dealer Monday morning... Even though there's a TSB, anyone have any idea as to why a fuse could be so obviously overloaded but not "pop"? This is quite concerning.
When I attempted to pull the fuse out one side of the fuse broke off and stayed stuck in the fuse box. I had to use some needle nose pliers to remove it. Here's the fuse block. You can see obvious overheating evidence.
Originally Posted by stashton
Ford 2581, Your post on fuse# 27 was a real life saver today. It was very obviously burnt. I replaced it and truck started right up. I have ordered the EL3Z-14293-A Fuse Relocation Kit from Ford for $21.95 and plan to do it myself. I never would have figured this one out and probably would have spent a fortune at the dealer. Thank you for sharing such critical information. Photo of fuse attached.
I also read further to see that there was a TSB for a relocation kit for this issue. I'll be calling my local dealer Monday morning... Even though there's a TSB, anyone have any idea as to why a fuse could be so obviously overloaded but not "pop"? This is quite concerning.
The reason the fuse did not pop is because the circuit it's protecting does not exceed the current draw the fuse is rated for, the reason it's melting is because the contacts are insufficient for normal current flow, thus the relocation TSB, it relocates the fuse and provides fuse contacts that ARE capable of handling normal circuit usage.
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Yes. As well as a large portion of the plastic casing. I'm surprised the truck didn't catch fire. I'm also surprised and thoroughly disappointed in the way my local dealership dealt with this issue. I've never been treated worse. After this experience, I may buy a Toyota Tundra.
I have a 2013 F150. Having this same issue now. Was running great, put $30 gas in it, drove home, parked it for about 3 hrs. Daughter and i got in to go to the movies, just cranks, won't start. Checked fuse, fuse is good. Any other ideas? This is my only vehicle!!
I have a 2013 F150. Having this same issue now. Was running great, put $30 gas in it, drove home, parked it for about 3 hrs. Daughter and i got in to go to the movies, just cranks, won't start. Checked fuse, fuse is good. Any other ideas? This is my only vehicle!!
it could be that your fuel pump itself failed. If it is very quiet you should be able to hear it run for a few seconds when you turn the key to ON if your ear is close to the tank under the truck.
Also could have something to do with a security system if you have it, might help to look in the owners manual for clues , or a bad ignition key if you recently had one made
wish I could help but its hard to tell from here, hope its something simple
it could be that your fuel pump itself failed. If it is very quiet you should be able to hear it run for a few seconds when you turn the key to ON if your ear is close to the tank under the truck.
Also could have something to do with a security system if you have it, might help to look in the owners manual for clues , or a bad ignition key if you recently had one made
wish I could help but its hard to tell from here, hope its something simple
About 4-5 months ago, i had to have a key and and ignition switched out. Not having the issue i did then, as it will crank. Before new key and ignition it wouldn't. I would have to turn the key 5-8 times before it would start
My 2013 does the same thing. Sometimes it starts no problem, sometimes it just cranks. No codes. My wife just picked up the EL3Z-14293-A kit. Hopefully that fixes it. We went to the stealership for them to look into it, we had to drop off today and they may be able to look into it tomorrow afternoon. You guys hopefully saved the day.
10-15-2017, 03:27 PM
Thnxxxs yall
