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2009 F-150 5.4 3v P0345 and P0349
Well decided to remove the cam phaser lockouts in my 09 F-150 with the 5.4 3v. While I was in there I replaced VCT solenoids. When I started it up and took it on a drive I thought it was a new truck! The thing I need some advice on is, I'm still getting the codes P0345 and P0349. I know the engine is timed correctly and the fingers on the cam phaser were not bent. I read about the alternator having interference issues but I unplugged it and cleared the codes then started the truck and it went away. I then shut it off and restarted it with the alternator still unhooked and the codes came back. The cam sensors are new but I did notice the plug that plugs into the sensor was replaced at one time before I owned the truck so I'm thinking the wires could have gotten crossed. Any advice from you guys would be very much appreciated! Thanks!
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Sensor A bank 2.. check wires. both DTC's point at that sensor.
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I’ll take a look. Thanks! |
I have those same exact codes on my 2005 5.4L 3V.
I also sometimes get the P0021 (Pending) that comes and goes away on its own. For the life of me, I couldn't figure it out why I was getting the codes. I've checked the wiring, the sensors, the blades on the cam phasers, the alternator, but nothing. Took it to a couple of reputable mechanics: 1 wouldn't even touch the engine because of the well known timing problems (even though this one didn't give hard codes of P0021 & P0022). 1 recommended replacing the entire PCM (which I did, and $500 later, I still have the same codes) 1 recommended replacing the whole engine (which I then finally acknowledged that keeping the engine is going to cost me more money down the line) I can't pass emissions test with a CEL, so I gave up and bought the 2016 5.0L However, maybe you'll have much better luck in finding the problem. |
I changed the wires and it fixed it! I’m just trying to keep this one going until I can trade up to a more dependable truck. Mine has a hesitation that I can’t figure out. It’s in the meat of the torque curve. It seems like if you’re light on the pedal it does it and when you really give it to her it doesn’t. I’m not sure what’s going on. I’ve replaced all timing components, injectors, COPs, spark plugs and front O2 sensors and it still does it!! :( |
clean the throttle body and MAF sensor with the proper cleaners... disconnect the neg from battery while doing it. remove TB for cleaning.. after all is done re-connect and fire her up.. let idle for 5 mins and then complete a drive cycle. |
Will do. Probably be the beginning of the week. After I try that I’ll report back. |
Originally Posted by jaredmiller01
(Post 6085193)
Will do. Probably be the beginning of the week. After I try that I’ll report back. |
Well I got another question for you guys LOL. So I changed my spark plugs for the heck of it Thursday and I took it on a test drive. Wednesday night it ran great. When cruising you can feel a slight lag. I know it’s not the TC, because if it was that it would shudder a little more and a lot harder. It’s like a split second lag that is rhythmic. It also has code P2096 present. Any thoughts? |
02 sensor bank one .. post cat. could pull it and clean it up and reinstall.. give that a shot. |
Originally Posted by techrep
(Post 6086308)
02 sensor bank one .. post cat. could pull it and clean it up and reinstall.. give that a shot. |
temporary |
Originally Posted by techrep
(Post 6086397)
temporary My '11 threw a different post cat code shortly after buying it. From what I read, the post cat O2 sensors are read primarily upon decel. Mine cleared by itself only to reappear. Drive a few start/stop cycles to see if the CEL clears. This will help in diagnosing the cause. Brad |
Well I decided to throw a fuel pressure gauge on it yesterday. KOEO was about 50psi then slowly bled off. KOER was 20-22psi. When I would slowly increase the RPMs it would drop back to 20psi, if I punched the gas hard it would jump to 50psi then bleed back down. I’m thinking FPDM. I had my local Napa order one which will be here today. Any thoughts from you guys? |
Originally Posted by jaredmiller01
(Post 6090255)
Well I decided to throw a fuel pressure gauge on it yesterday. KOEO was about 50psi then slowly bled off. KOER was 20-22psi. When I would slowly increase the RPMs it would drop back to 20psi, if I punched the gas hard it would jump to 50psi then bleed back down. I’m thinking FPDM. I had my local Napa order one which will be here today. Any thoughts from you guys? |
Okay thanks! Where is the pressure sensor located? |
Originally Posted by jaredmiller01
(Post 6090319)
Okay thanks! Where is the pressure sensor located? |
Well the new FPDM was a Dorman and actually put out less pressure than the original one so I put the original one back in it and I’m gonna take the new one back LOL. I wish I could get to the bottom of the hesitation issue. I’m gonna clean the MAF tomorrow even though I’ve replaced it about a month ago. I also need to clean the TB. I’m starting to think it’s torque converter. But if it’s that I’m just gonna run it until that goes. I’m just trying to keep this one going until after graduation so I can move to an Ecoboost😎 |
The fuel pressure should be around 35 PSI at idle and not change too much under load. The higher initial reading at KOEO is the fuel pump priming the fuel rail prior to engine start.
A restriction in the system, a weak pump (low power supply or defect), or even a fuel tank venting problem ( slow drop in FP) are possibilities. The PCM will try to cover up low fuel pressure by extending injector pulse width, but that'll only go so far. Brad |
That cleared some things up for me, thank you! Maybe my pump is getting a little weak. I mean that could cause some hesitation I would think? I guess Ill just keep running it until it gets worse and then replace the pump. Thanks! |
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