2.7 break-in
#1
14indy
Thread Starter
2.7 break-in
In January ordering my new f150 Lariot Supercab with the 2.7. Would like to break it in right then go with 100% synthetic oil on first oil change? Can anyone help
#2
Help with what? There's no question.
#3
Some people believe in break-in periods. Others don't.
For me, the first 1,000 miles I drove a little conservative (didn't jack rabbit much off the line, drove under 70, etc). I did change my oil after the first 1,000 miles and only 5 qts came out after sitting 4hrs, saw very minor metal shavings, and changed to full synthetic. Changed oil 2 more times since then, no problems.
If you do want more steps on how to break-in, your manual tells you how.
For me, the first 1,000 miles I drove a little conservative (didn't jack rabbit much off the line, drove under 70, etc). I did change my oil after the first 1,000 miles and only 5 qts came out after sitting 4hrs, saw very minor metal shavings, and changed to full synthetic. Changed oil 2 more times since then, no problems.
If you do want more steps on how to break-in, your manual tells you how.
#4
Senior Member
Motorcraft oil is synthetic blend, so switching to full synthetic will be no big deal at all.
If I was ordering a new EcoBoost truck, I'd install a catch can system on it the day I got it home. Will help keep the heads and valves a little cleaner as the miles rack up. Check the oil often on direct injected turbo engines...they're fairly hard on oil.
If I was ordering a new EcoBoost truck, I'd install a catch can system on it the day I got it home. Will help keep the heads and valves a little cleaner as the miles rack up. Check the oil often on direct injected turbo engines...they're fairly hard on oil.
#5
Dazed and Confused
To many, catch cans are snake oil on newer trucks. Save the money and go with Motorcraft syn-blend.
Last edited by Tallyman89; 12-02-2016 at 08:38 PM.
#6
Senior Member
The owners manual is your friend. as for full synthetic unless your going for extended change intervals or plan to work the sh*t out of it save your money. Todays conventional or syn blend oil's are more than up to the task. IMO catch cans are snake oil and most people praising them are selling them.
#7
Senior Member
Manual, which is online, answers all your questions.
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#8
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
For the first 1k miles you dont have to baby it, in fact its better to flog it just a little bit. The main thing is to vary the engine speed constantly rather than holding it at a constant RPM for too long like you do on the highway.
And not all catch can applications are snake oil. I wish prople would stop with the blanket statements. If they were all snake oil I wouldnt have a 25 oz jar sitting here filled to the top with the crud ive been collecting for the last 27k miles.
And not all catch can applications are snake oil. I wish prople would stop with the blanket statements. If they were all snake oil I wouldnt have a 25 oz jar sitting here filled to the top with the crud ive been collecting for the last 27k miles.
Last edited by johndog82; 12-02-2016 at 10:24 PM.
#9
Motorcraft oil is synthetic blend, so switching to full synthetic will be no big deal at all.
If I was ordering a new EcoBoost truck, I'd install a catch can system on it the day I got it home. Will help keep the heads and valves a little cleaner as the miles rack up. Check the oil often on direct injected turbo engines...they're fairly hard on oil.
If I was ordering a new EcoBoost truck, I'd install a catch can system on it the day I got it home. Will help keep the heads and valves a little cleaner as the miles rack up. Check the oil often on direct injected turbo engines...they're fairly hard on oil.
#10
Senior Member
And if you had fed that 25oz of crud through your engine and out the tail pipe or into the oil drain pan over 27k miles do think your engine would be any worse for wear or catastrophically destroyed? after all it is just condensed vapor.
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