TNSean

If you can pull the pan and replace bearings, you can get the engine out without some pdf.

I pull the intake manifold, front accessories, disconnect the exhaust at the exhaust manifolds and leave the exhaust manifolds on the engine, unbolt tranny, don’t forget the two upper bolts and support the tranny, torque converter from the flex plate and anything else attached preventing you from pulling the engine and have at it.

As you take parts off, it will become apparent what to do.

Take the hood off too.

Just nuts and bolts, lots of time, but not hard. You got this.

Hardest part imo is the power steering pump. I know some guys disconnect the lines and leave the pump on the engine until it is out.

catch 22

You WILL need to have your crankshaft turned and you WILL need to resize any rod that had a bearing spin....or you WILL do this dance again. It would probably be best to get a "crank kit" and have the rod resized or just buy a new rod. At this point pull the engine, put it on a stand and get after it. You may be able to do it from underneath...but it ain't fun and rods/piston rarely come through the bottom unless it's the result of catastrophic failure.

futura1

I pulled the intake and will get the rest disconnected next week and pull the engine out. what are your opinions on a "new" vs "remaned" crank vs just having my original one turned? I wont really know the extent of the damage to that journal till i get it out, just asking for opinions in advance.

Steve83

Just get a full reman long block with a warranty. I prefer Jasper, but it sometimes takes them more than 1 try to get me the correct engine.

futura1

Well, there was a bit of a delay in pulling the engine on my truck, but finally got to it. What a pita. Anyway, replaced the crank and have a question about seals and or gaskets. I dont see where there was a gasket that i removed from the timing chain tensioners . Should there be one? parts store doesn't show one, but that doesn't seem right. Also, the back cover that has the rear main seal in it looks like it only had silicon sealant on it. Is that correct?
Pulling that engine here (near Denver) on a 100 degree day was about all this old guy could do.

Shaggy1970

I would go to the local wreck yard and get a drop in for 800-1200, would save so much time.

KingDeleted

Sounds like you are soldering on with the rebuild, Im anxious to see how it turns out.

futura1

turned into a much bigger project than i wanted, but as i tore into it, i found shavings from that crank bearing everywhere. had the heads cleaned and resurfaced, flushed all oil passages and am in the process of putting it back together. I know the left and right timing chain tensioners are different , but something seems odd to me and maybe someone can enlighten me. on one of them (the right), the "piston" has a hole above the spring thats inside which i assume ( yeah i know) allows oil to flow thru to the timing chain and guide. The other side (the left) does not. ???? why is that ?