1999 5,4 liter 2v removal
#21
i have now installed one rod bearing (the one that was totally gone) fired it up and it ran okay, but with what sounds like a rod knock to me. i had a thought that if i pulled spark plug coils one at a time and started the engine, would i get a significant change in the loudness of the knock? My thought is that since there is in effect no "power" stroke with all that pressure, the sound would change. Any thoughts ? Another thing that seems odd to me is that if i put a mechanics stethoscope on the block in various places, i can barely hear it. If i put the scope on a valve cover or even on the exhaust pipe it seems louder?
#22
have not had it on the road yet simply because the "knock" was there right from startup and was right in line with rpm's. In the next day or so i will try to get a better look at the exhaust manifolds, but i think i will try pulling the coils one at a time to see if the "knock" changes or goes away all together. surely it is just coincidence, but the bearing that was gone was on the same cylinder that spit out a plug about a year ago. I had a local mechanic fix that for me. I cant imagine any chips from that procedure causing only that rod bearing to fail. One more thing, oil pressure looks good (gauge, not a light) but also looks suspiciously stable as i go from idle to 2000 maybe 2500 rpm's.needle doesn't appear to move at all.
#23
after disconnecting the coils one at a time, there was one that made the engine sound much better. i believe i will just go ahead and do all the rod bearings this weekend. Does anyone know how big a risk it is re-using the rod bolts? i would have to order them from summit or someone like that and they are like 130 bucks.
And why would a rod bearing fail in the first place? I don't have a problem doing all the bearings just to be safe, but i am a little concerned that the root cause of the problem may still exist. Thoughts!
And why would a rod bearing fail in the first place? I don't have a problem doing all the bearings just to be safe, but i am a little concerned that the root cause of the problem may still exist. Thoughts!
#24
after disconnecting the coils one at a time, there was one that made the engine sound much better. i believe i will just go ahead and do all the rod bearings this weekend. Does anyone know how big a risk it is re-using the rod bolts? i would have to order them from summit or someone like that and they are like 130 bucks.
And why would a rod bearing fail in the first place? I don't have a problem doing all the bearings just to be safe, but i am a little concerned that the root cause of the problem may still exist. Thoughts!
And why would a rod bearing fail in the first place? I don't have a problem doing all the bearings just to be safe, but i am a little concerned that the root cause of the problem may still exist. Thoughts!
#27
Not sure what that plug looks like. I will pull it out of curiosity now. They all probably need replacing with 119k on the engine and i dont remember when or if i did them. I am kinda afraid to change them, just due to the design issue with those heads though. will investigate if there is something i can do if i do replace them to maybe prevent them from coming loose and popping out. i would think a thread locker might interfere with the ground and create a weak spark situation.
#28
Now that i have started to replace the rest of the rod bearings, i discovered that after removing the one next to the one that was totally gone i could see that the crank is wasted. there is a definite wear of maybe .010 inch or more on the crank where the two rods would meet. My guess is the knock is caused by the two rods banging up against each other (more likely just the one hitting hard on that worn area of the crank). Now i for sure would like to find that "pdf" on 5.4 liter engine removal.
Anyone have it ? or know someone who does?