futura1

Hello all: I once saw where a user named "Rossco" said he had a "pdf" detailing the how to of removal/replacement for the engine in my truck. I have a 1999 f150 with 5.4liter 2v that pretty much seized up while my son was using it. Anyway, looking at replacing the engine because the truck is in really good condition otherwise and only had 109k on it. I am a fair mechanic and could do without, but would love to see that pdf and read it over before i tackle the replacement. Gotta do it soon. Boating and camping seasons are rapidly approaching.

If anyone has it, let me know and i will give you an email address

Thanks; Futura1

KingDeleted

109k on a 5.4 is barely anything, are you 100% positive it cannot be repaired for cheaper and less time?

DarrinT04

^this. there's got to be something you can do to repair that engine

futura1

I think almost anything can be repaired. Dont know for sure, but i think maybe the oil pump failed.Having to turn the crank, do bearings etc. along with doing the head fix thing for spitting out plugs, im not sure, but still looking at a fair amount of time. Not as much money maybe. i have always worked on motors on an engine stand and would have to pull it to verify my thoughts about oil pump and crank/bearing damage anyway, wouldnt i? i have not looked, do you think i can get underneath, drain the oil, pull the pan and examine it that way?
thanks

futura1

I think almost anything can be repaired. Dont know for sure, but i think maybe the oil pump failed.Having to turn the crank, do bearings etc. along with doing the head fix thing for spitting out plugs, im not sure, but still looking at a fair amount of time. Not as much money maybe. i have always worked on motors on an engine stand and would have to pull it to verify my thoughts about oil pump and crank/bearing damage anyway, wouldnt i? i have not looked, do you think i can get underneath, drain the oil, pull the pan and examine it that way?
thanks

Jbrew

Pulling the engine is just nuts and bolts...bolts mostly. Time consuming, I wouldn't pull it unless it needed replacing.

The pumps don't just fail in that engine. It's possible yes, not likley without good reason. Your post is very vague, -

Confirm it's engine problem first as it could very well be a starter FW issue or simpler.

white89gt

Right.... you almost have to run it low or out of oil to kill that pump. Anything is possible I suppose, but that is some low mileage to have that happen.

Jbrew

Check the starter, if the plunger sticks forcing the starter pinion/slip gear to remain engaged, the flywheel spins the gear/starter while in D and driving. It eventually heats up and jams the FW. It will seem as though the engine locked up.....until you pull the starter anyway.

Might want to hit Rosco up for that how too first...never know.

futura1

Okay, today,s update.. you guys may have saved me some money. I drained the oil and pilled the oil pan. Not hard but had to pull the transfer case crossmember and lower the transfer case to get the pan out. wasn't expecting that. I found a couple things. One picture attached that i am a little confused about, and a video that is the main culprit and self explanatory. In the picture i am confused as to what caused that "tan" area next to the problem rod bearing. Looking for some thoughts about how to proceed. The video, as i said, is self explanatory. Does it look like that is an awful lot of movement for a bearing that is totally gone? I think i can do all the bearings from the bottom if you think i should. Also, would anyone recommend pulling the mains one at a time to check them ? All the end play and bearings seem fine on all the other rods. I also plan on pulling the heads anyway ( while its down) to do the spark plug fix on the 7 other plugs that have not been spit out. Any thoughts and suggestions are welcome.

futura1

looks like maybe the video didnt attach