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Let's see your classic FORD rigs!!!

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Old 02-12-2017, 10:25 PM
  #1261  
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Nice rig there red 84, do you know the proper name of that tan/beige color? Just picked up a 84 myself a couple weeks ago in that color but not two-tone. Ive noticed it hides dried mud pretty well. Ive got the straight 6 f150, 4 w/overdrive. Shes got some issues from sitting and I don't know jack about repairing vehicles so Iv'e got alot of learning ahead of me. I like your add-ons as well


Almost Cherry


Original Bench seat =)


Creampuff

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Old 02-13-2017, 10:50 PM
  #1262  
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Default These are my 2 bullnose fords, the first is the 85 F150 and the 2nd is the 86 F150.









Last edited by Zach M.; 02-14-2017 at 04:58 PM.
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Old 02-13-2017, 11:46 PM
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Those are real beauties Zach. I hope with a whole lot of work I can get mine looking half as good as yours. Are they all original? Here I was thinking I just bought a creampuff.
Old 02-14-2017, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by flyguy89
Those are real beauties Zach. I hope with a whole lot of work I can get mine looking half as good as yours. Are they all original? Here I was thinking I just bought a creampuff.
That's exactly what I call these. And believe it or not, yes both are all orginal. I found the 86 from a guy in Brookville, IN about 20 miles from Liberty. He inherited it from his father who ordered it just like it is today. The son is a huge collecter of Indian motorcycles and Suzuki products and had all these items (truck included) in a shop with heated cement floors. The truck just didn't fit it to his collection and he didn't need a truck that small, so he decided to put it up for sale in 2012. The 85 is a similar story. Found it in Richmond IN. A relative up there knew a guy who had that truck just sitting in a old horse barn. The owner said it had been undriven for several years and wanted it GONE. He didn't have to wait long! But yes, older trucks around here if not used as beaters do hold up for a long time, the state dept of transportation uses sand to coat roads in the winter, nor salt. Dosent work half the time, but the trucks sure love it!
Old 02-14-2017, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by flyguy89
Those are real beauties Zach. I hope with a whole lot of work I can get mine looking half as good as yours. Are they all original? Here I was thinking I just bought a creampuff.
Hey, don't get yourself wrong. Your truck looks just as well taken cared for and solid as mine do. No rust or dents, clean interior, a real solid truck. All that chrome and fancy paintwork may make them look sharp, but it's the actual clean vechicle/ solid body underneath all that, that is so rare to find on a truck this generation, which is what you have. What problems is it having from sitting? I may be able to help you out.
Old 02-14-2017, 03:12 PM
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That's funny that you mention sanding the roads Zach, I picked mine up in Central Oregon where they use crushed red cinder (lava rock) instead of salt so maybe that has something to do with the lack of rust.
As far as issues from sitting (this is only an assumption as I really don't know jack) when I started my 5 hour drive back home it suddenly lost power cruising down the road in 4th going 55 about 20 miles down the road. Got it towed by a mechanic and the fuel pump replaced and she hasn't died on me since, well other than by me just learning to drive stick haha . He also recommended me adjusting the timing as it rattles pretty good, to add to it Ive got a flowmaster exhaust which I assume is larger than stock cause this thing is loud as heck (which I must admit I kinda like). Theres a large amount of oil buildup on the front of the engine running all the way back to the tranny (maybe from the air forcing it back there while driving?). It seems to be coming from the valve cover and theres some mysterious red substance pasted on the side between the valve cover and whatever you call what it attaches to. In my profile Iv'e got an album titled "oil everywhere" which shows it.
Sometimes when I start it the dash doesnt work, I started another thread on this and a member by the name of Chris recommended replacing the starting column ignition switch and getting a multimeter and test light to isolate the problem. Gas gauge doesn't work at any time. The rear fuel tank doesn't work but from my research it sounds like it would be a fairly easy fix and I'd just have to clean or replace the tank, then replace the fuel lines. The belt has some small cracks in it so I assume it needs replacing. The stupid ing windshield wiper **** wont go back on for no reason after I accidentally pulled it off, I'm about to super glue the thing. The radio works but the right **** is nonoperational so I cannot change the station or listen to cassettes. I probably need to replace all the filters as soon as I figure out where they are all at. The flooring is discolored and torn back right where the drivers side door meets it (not a speck or rust under it however) which is the only thing wrong with her aesthetically. At least the old man who owned it previously said that the clutch and tranny are "tighter than skin on a weenie" which is hilarious because he owns a hotdog concession stand company. And the engine seems strong except for the bit of rattle. Theres probably a dozen other things that need to be worked on that my untrained eye has missed. After I start getting my head wrapped around the basics I am hoping to basically do a complete overhaul on her. Iv'e got to do her pretty looks justice. I also want to get the best fuel economy out of it that I can. Ive got the Haynes Repair Manual so that is a great help, I just don't know a lot of the basics or where to start haha.
Old 02-14-2017, 03:50 PM
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Yeah, when those fuel pumps die on these trucks, they wont sputter or nothing, they'll just cut out flat. That's why Ruby is getting a new pump put in her this week. Same thing happened to me! Not too sure on what that red paste stuff you described is, the only thing I could think of is its some sort of gasket sealer, or sealing paste of some sort. Wouldn't be too concerned on the oil leak its common for old motors on old trucks to leak at but if you're talking about a complete engine overhaul, it is something that will need repaired over time. Id just take it to a mechanic for that. Sounds like you have a lot of smaller issues, electrical/fuses stuff like that. Check to make sure you don't have any blown fuses, check your electrical pigtails and connectors- sometimes the connectors on the end of the pigtails have grime/soot in them just from being old, and just need cleaning out with electrical cleaning spray to reestablish a good connection. Change all the air and fuel filters, and try putting some Seafoam a few times in your gas, it does wonders on your injectors and cleans engine deposits and sludge. Lucas Oil Treatment is great for your engine oil. I saw you were from Oregon and thought about that Pacific Northwest weather! I thought for sure a truck up there would be destroyed by moisture and salt. But you say they use Lava Rock? That's interesting.
Old 02-14-2017, 04:15 PM
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I'm getting my fuel pump replaced by a mechanic in town, didnt want to screw anything up trying to remove the bed by myself and some FFA boys. The only other option would be to drop the fuel tank, but that's a pain.

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Old 02-14-2017, 04:19 PM
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Thanks zach I will add seafoam, oil cleaner, and electrical cleaning spray to my shopping list. You would be correct in assuming that the wet weather takes its toll on old vehicles in Oregon West of the Cascade Mountains in the Willamette Valley and coast (salt in the air definitely adding to it on the coast), but my truck spent it's life East of the Cascades, which is all Juniper and scrub, not much different from what you see in Nevada and they get 90% of their meager precipitation in the form of snow in the winter. Thats why I moved to Bend then SE Washington, to get away from that never ending rain. The Oregon Coast and Valley are beautiful and greener than just about anywhere else, during the dozen days a year it's not raining haha.
Thats good to hear about the valve cover gasket not being an emergency, I guess I'm just overly cautious about that stuff after my P.O.S Subaru blew up on me and tried to set Santiam Pass on fire a few years ago.
For my fuel pump they replaced it with an electrical inline fuel pump part# E16010. Pump was $47.79 They had to replace a central module as well, whatever that is. Labor was $125. Hope that info can help you somehow.
Old 02-16-2017, 07:42 PM
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OK got ole blue eyes home and the motor is freed up and rotating. Soaking the cyl w/MMOIl/SeaFoam mix.

Removed the old carb an installed another MC-2100 but the venturi is 1.08 and the old one is 1.14 so I think I'm gonna have to rebuild the other one etc.

Hopefully to have it running this weekend.

Got her home and cleaned up.

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