High beams... or lack thereof....
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
High beams... or lack thereof....
I have a 1985 that has been my farm truck and a 1981 that is my daily driver. The 81 is restored except for some minor additions that are hard to find, like the right arm for the interior door locks. lol.
So... same setup and same issue with both trucks but I ignored it in the 1985 because I was never out in it after dark.
Circular pull-out headlight switch. No running lights. One pull results in nothing, two results in low beams (That have the brightness of running lights) and... that's it. Driving in the dark is unsafe.
Where should I start looking for the problem? I've included a photo of a fuse box that I actually stole off another members post on this forum but it's a match for the 81. I can't find a matching diagram in my hanes, just diagrams for newer models.
So... same setup and same issue with both trucks but I ignored it in the 1985 because I was never out in it after dark.
Circular pull-out headlight switch. No running lights. One pull results in nothing, two results in low beams (That have the brightness of running lights) and... that's it. Driving in the dark is unsafe.
Where should I start looking for the problem? I've included a photo of a fuse box that I actually stole off another members post on this forum but it's a match for the 81. I can't find a matching diagram in my hanes, just diagrams for newer models.
#3
Headlight **** doesn't function like that. One notch is the parking lights, all the way out is headlights. To toggle between low and high beam, there is a switch on the floor board that you press with your foot. If it doesn't change between low and high beam, then you need to check the switch and possibly the wiring to the headlights.
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Drifter Wallis (01-08-2018)
#4
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The headlight switch is known to burn off the terminals for the parking/courtesy lights. It may also have happened to the headlight terminals on the switch. The **** is easy to remove, once you know how. Spin it until you see the notch, then press the tiny catch around the shaft rearward (toward you) as you pull the **** off the shaft. Push the shaft back in to turn the lights off. Back out (but don't remove) the screw from the bottom of the plastic column shroud, spread the shroud, & lift it off the column. Remove 4 screws across the top of the cluster bezel, and work the bezel out of the dash. You may have to move the auto trans shifter fully down. Remove the steel nut around the shaft, and work the switch out the bottom of the dash. Try to inspect the terminals in the connector before attempting to remove the connector from the switch body. If the white plastic is burned, buy a new connector shell (JY or a new chinese pigtail from a parts store) before proceeding. It will be easier to transfer the wires to the new shell if you can still see where they go. Refer to these pics & their captions:
https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/831436 (for phone apps)
https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/830772
https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1086997
The stomp switch may also be damaged, or its terminals corroded due to water from your shoes. Lift the flooring & inspect it.
https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/831436 (for phone apps)
https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/830772
https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/1086997
The stomp switch may also be damaged, or its terminals corroded due to water from your shoes. Lift the flooring & inspect it.
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Drifter Wallis (01-08-2018)
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
The stomp switch does nada and I have no parking lights but I do have headlights after two pulls. I will check the wiring to the stomp switch first, and work from there. Thanks!