DARLA brake lights wont work
10-01-2018, 02:10 PM
#1
DARLA brake lights wont work
She isnt stalling out so easily after replacing air filter and adding fuel injector cleaner at last fill up. In fact, she hasnt stalled out since. Got her all cleaned up today and removed a lot of rust from bed and front bumper with C.L.R.
now i want to able to drive her without using hand signals. All other taillight functions are operating properly: hazards, blinkers, back up and running lights. Ground is good and brake light switch is fine. I tried adjusting brake light switch up and down but lights still wont come on. I removed bls and tested wires which were also good, so this means i have a short somewhere from the firewall to the taillights? Those wires run down frame on either side, so i dont see the likelihood that they both independently shorted out simultaneously. Any suggestions or aspects that ive overlooked? Fuses are all good too
now i want to able to drive her without using hand signals. All other taillight functions are operating properly: hazards, blinkers, back up and running lights. Ground is good and brake light switch is fine. I tried adjusting brake light switch up and down but lights still wont come on. I removed bls and tested wires which were also good, so this means i have a short somewhere from the firewall to the taillights? Those wires run down frame on either side, so i dont see the likelihood that they both independently shorted out simultaneously. Any suggestions or aspects that ive overlooked? Fuses are all good too
Last edited by Blackdog1986Stepside; 10-01-2018 at 02:11 PM. Reason: Typo
10-02-2018, 10:13 PM
#2
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The brake switch is called "BOO" (Brake On-Off).
(phone app link)
How exactly do you know the BOO is "fine"? Did you test voltage on each wire with the pedal released, and again with it depressed? What exactly were the results?
How do you know the wires are good? What test did you do on them?
All the wires run down the driver's side of the frame - not both sides. They cross at the rear crossmember, just forward of the rear bumper. A "short" circuit would blow a fuse or set a wire on fire. If something simply doesn't work, that's called an "open" circuit, which is the same as turning a switch OFF.
Read at least the first few pages of this:
http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1986-evtm.html
(phone app link)
How exactly do you know the BOO is "fine"? Did you test voltage on each wire with the pedal released, and again with it depressed? What exactly were the results?
How do you know the wires are good? What test did you do on them?
All the wires run down the driver's side of the frame - not both sides. They cross at the rear crossmember, just forward of the rear bumper. A "short" circuit would blow a fuse or set a wire on fire. If something simply doesn't work, that's called an "open" circuit, which is the same as turning a switch OFF.
Read at least the first few pages of this:
http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1986-evtm.html
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Blackdog1986Stepside (10-03-2018)