I've been doing a lot of research on classic Fords and narrowed it down to pre-1984 to avoid feedback carburetor (complexity). I'm used to fuel injection (1987+), but I'd like to learn and mess with a simple carburetor engine. I like doing all the maintenance that I can myself.

I found a 1983 4x4 shortbed F150 with a 300 I6 5spd for $1,500 (136k mileage). It's already lifted 8" and I will need to purchase new tires. Not ideal bed size, but I figure I can make a bed extender.

What I've gathered:

• They didn't build 1983 models with the 5 speed, so I'm guessing it has a ZF or M5R2 transmission.
• I'm trusting seller on 136K, and not 236K or 336K. I don't think the odometer goes above 99,999. The title should show correct number though.
• Check for rust in floor, cab corners, tailgate, fender wells
• Check oil, and drive around to see if rear main seal is blown.

What else should look for when viewing the truck (major problem areas, or tips you have)?

 

The entire front rearend that much lift is hell on twin I beams and the radius arms bushing. Anti-freeze . Gas tank(s). More then likely the title is not going to give you the mileage anything older then 20 years is not required. Breaks and break lines

 

Thanks for pointing out the axle/suspension problem. I looked around and I think it has a twin traction beam because the 4x4 (same problem though). That may be why the seller says the tires need replacing (wheels toeing). Probably shouldn't get this if I have to remove the lift and revert to stock.

What years pre-1984 did the trucks come with a solid axle?

 

In my experience, if you're buying a truck over 20 years old, you're going to have to replace anything that has rubber on it real soon. It doesn't matter how many miles it has on it or if it's leaking fluids... All trucks that old leak fluids unless it's a complete rebuild.

This means you're gonna have to replace front and rear transfer case seals, front and rear engine seals, any rubber seals on the transmission (inside and outside; probably not as many in a manual transmission), power steering pump and gear box seals, all the hoses and vacuum lines in the engine compartment, all the plug wires, distributor shaft seal, radiator hoses, tires, shocks, carburetor, etc. There's rubber everywhere and after 20 years, it starts to get hard, brittle, cracked, and all of them are meant to hold in fluids or air.

Bottom line, only buy an old vehicle if you have a place to work on it and are willing to work on it, because it's gonna require lots of work.

Reference: own a 1986 F-150 5.8L V8, C6 automatic, NP-208 transfer case
Also own a 1985 F-350 6.9L Diesel, 4-speed manual with PTO, DRW, 13ft flatbed

 

Check cab mounts, rad saddle mounts, and the rails on the underside of the box for rust. Big money repairs that are required to put it on the road.
Unless you're paying 500.00 for the thing, it's a good idea to spend the 50 or 100 it costs to have a mechanic do a safety (roadworthiness) inspection before you buy it. Once you've bought it, it's your problem.
If the mechanic finds problems, he can give you an estimate of the repair costs and if you still want to buy it you will be armed with (real) info to bargain with. Either way, the inspection will pay for itself. And if you buy it, you had to get one done anyway.

 

To answer your question. 79 was the last year for the soild front rear end in then half tons. I believe those TTB front rear ends ate made to toe. To some degree. It could just be normal wear on the tires mid tires don't last anyhow . More then likely the truck has 3" body and 4" suspension. just keep in mind you don't lift a truck put big mud tires on it and not go mudding with it. Or I don't atleast

 

The TTB front end does not play well with cheap lift modifications. If someone uses inexpensive spring spacers, hoping to raise the front even a couple of inches, it can throw the geometry of the front end into a tizzy causing serious steering play/wander, premature wear of tie rods, ball joints, and the list goes on and on. But...keep in mind that those modifications can be easily reversed or corrected with a proper lift kit which includes a dropped Pitman Arm,etc.

 

First off....the I-6 was and remains Ford's most dependable workhorse engine with tons of parts availability and tech support. Secondly at the mileage you stated, that is actually low. $1500.00 ?? It's worth that in parts alone !
8" lift is excessive and should be brought back down to earth a bit for a driver but that's not hard to do (it's cheaper to take away than to add)..Look at the truck like You would look at anything else You are considering...Does it have "good bones"? Does it start without effort? How does it sound to You when it's idling? How does it feel when You're behind the wheel? Does it hesitate when You accelerate or does it simply....accelerate? Is the steering responsive, or does it wander? At $1500.00, if I knew where it was, I would buy it.

 

The price is probably fair and the 300 will outrun every single part on that truck...but that 8" lift is what would give me pause. Not only might you have to convert it back if they did it cheaply (or wrong), you might end up replacing every suspension part in the front. That can get to be a ton of work and maybe a bit expensive.


It'll leak everything, and the rubber replacement is a great point. But that's any old truck, so if you're looking at older carbed trucks, that's kind of a moot point.

 

Thanks for the graphic and explanation!

Also thank you to everyone else for your input. I have fun learning how things work and don't mind replacing every rubber part (just bought some bad-*** USJACK jack stands that I want to use). I passed on this particular F150, but I'm going to remember what you all taught me for the next one.