265258

Just researching here. I have an 86' Ford F-150 with a 300 I6 in it. The truck is mechanically sound and I plan to keep it for a while. One of the reasons I bought this truck is because I wanted a full sized 4wd that I could sort of drive daily as a back up vehicle. That being said, I would like to maintain efficiency as well as I can. I thought the little one barrel carb would be a good avenue to achieve fuel efficiency, but I've lifted it 4" then put on 33" tires, and the truck is very sluggish on the freeway. It needed larger diameter tires to bring the RPM range into acceptable for todays speed limit, but now I am thinking a fuel injection swap would be the best bet for power and fuel economy.

I thought about buying an Offenhauser manifold and buying a TBI kit, (Expensive,), or maybe converting a Chevy TBI. Instead, I think it would be easier to use a Fuel Injection intake from a newer Ford 300. The thing is, I want to keep the system as simple as possible, which means no emmisions or anything extra that is not required to deliver the fuel. Does anyone know of any type of after market brain box, or Stand Alone Fuel system that will operate the injectors and Throttle plate perhaps using a fast reacting oxygen sensor? There's gotta be something.

Steve83

The big 6 will never be fuel-efficient; especially NOT when it has to push a lifted truck on big tires at highway speeds. It's a very durable & reliable engine, but it was built for stationary equipment when gas prices were about $0.25/gal.

You can fight with aftermarket EFI if that's what you enjoy, but it won't be economical, reliable, or maintainable. If they still offer something that works on this engine, how much longer do you think they'll offer replacement parts? Or technical support? Mixing in old GM parts may seem attractive now, but it won't be if you ever want to sell the truck. For the best value, efficiency, reliability, & maintainability, use a COMPLETE '87-96 4.9L EFI system (if not a complete '87-96 4.9L engine). Don't attempt to re-engineer it by removing anything; the emissions controls HELP the engine run better & more-efficiently.

I put a '95 4.9L into my '83 Bronco a few decades ago, and it now has somewhere around 860Kmi without a rebuild. It's still just as reliable today as it was in its original truck, and I can buy parts for it at any JY, parts store, or e-tailer. Because it's "stock", it's easy to diagnose & repair.

I've done similar swaps putting an '88 5.0L into a '75 Bronco, and a '00 4.6L into a '94 CV - they're also reliable & maintainable.

265258

You're probably right, there are other ways I can free up power. I'm going to the wrecking yard today cause there are two 90s Fords with complete serpentine belt systems. I'm gonna grab all the brackets and pulleys, then later I will add electric fans. My neighbor has a header pipe for me, and I will add a crankcase evacuator. I could weld my intake for a 2 Barrel Holley to get the extra power I need. There are simple avenues. I had a Dodge D150 with a worn 318 and a Holley 2280 2 Barrel years ago, I was able to maintain 17 MPG with that old pig. Right now with my 1 barrel I'm getting 15 MPG, and I know it's loading up because it's a carb I pulled out of the wrecking yard and I didn't even rebuild it. The oil from my brand new rebuilt engine was black and smelled like fuel after 1000 miles, so obviously I'm not getting optimal efficiency from that carb, lol. I think I will just stick to those plans, Thanks for talking sense into me.

Steve83

Electric fans suck power off the engine. A mechanical clutch is the most-reliable & -efficient, and will leave more power going to the wheels. A header is a waste on this engine - just another 6 opportunities for exhaust leaks, which rob power & efficiency. The stock PCV system is the best way to evacuate the crankcase - just maintain it. Welding an oversize carb onto the intake won't make the engine more-powerful, -efficient, or -reliable. The only thing that accomplishes all those goals is stock '87-96 EFI with all its emissions systems working as-designed.

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An electric fan takes absolutely no power from the crank which is why auto manufacturers and performance builders have obsoleted mechanical fans, because they require crank power to spin. A header pipe will not leak if properly installed, the ones with the solid bar holding the flanges together are prone to leak because the steel is not a cast steel and likes to warp, the factory split manifolds with the Y pipe are efficient and I have a set, I will use them if I do get a lemon set of headers, but tuned headers are as efficient as it gets. The stock PCV system on a carbureted vehicle is a ventilation system, not an evacuator. It requires vacuum from the intake side to operate, vacuum is generated by the piston drawing down air into the engine, therefore requiring engine power to operate, so at it's best, no power or vacuum is gained, only crank case ventilation. A crank case evacuator uses passing exhaust to suck air from the crank case without using engine vacuum, which helps the crank case with windage, because if there is suction in the crankcase, then the crank doesn't have to push the air around it while it is turning, yes it happens, mostly at high RPMs, but windage is drag on the crank and power loss. Having an air pump might seem appealing, but it also requires Power Robbing crank power to turn it, so you gain nothing. And I will not be welding an Oversized Carberator to my engine trying to dump more fuel in to gain efficiency. I will be welding on a Carter 2100 made for engines with the same cubic inches as the 300. The 2 barrel is not over sized, it's the fact that the 1 barrel is undersized. A 300 needs more cfm. A 1 barrel is restrictive, meaning, as the engine tries to suck in the fuel air mixture, it's working harder because the 1 barrel is undersized. Having a carburetor matched to the engine size is important to generate power, and if I can get more power without loosing economy then that's a win win. It might seem that you are accomplishing all the goals of power and efficiency with your stocker EFI and all the emissions, but the computer running it is programmed to have those systems, just because Ford did it that way, doesn't mean it can't be done better. I'm not saying I can do it better than Ford EFI with a carburetor, but I can get dang close, and I will not have an elaborate system to maintain, An engineering marvel is complete when there is nothing left to take away. I'm going to go ahead and say that a quality made EFI system minus emissions made for performance can be better than a stock EFI system too, all the benefits of EFI, but without the power sucking crank dragging redundant systems of the stock EFI system. From a maintenance stand point, how can something made by a reputable performance manufacturer such as Holley, be any worse than some factory line budget made Ford EFI system, especially when there are more low quality components to maintain than I would have with a good aftermarket system? You're entrusting that whatever budget replacement parts you buy at Autozone will not leave you stranded. I think I would trust a performance manufacturer first. I probably will not spend big dollars on an Aftermarket EFI system, but I certainly won't waste time money and effort on a stocker system either.

Steve83

Then where does the power to spin the fan come from? Ultimately? Think about it...Just keep telling yourself that! Every time you find it leaking, and have to re-install it.All carburetors are restrictive - that's how they work. If there was no restriction, it would have to have an injection pump, like a diesel.The system that you're spending all this time, money, & effort to concoct & fabricate? Seems pretty elaborate to me.Your ideas about what puts a drag on the crank don't seem to be based in simple physics or thermodynamics. Have you studied either subject yet?Too many to list, but the quick answer is: Ford hires better engineers,, and can support better parts suppliers, and has to offer a better warranty.The 2nd time a zone part left me stranded, I stopped buying ANYTHING from the zone. That was nearly 30 years ago.Good luck! When your engine has half as many as my stocker does now, let me know.

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Dumb Steve: Then where does the power to spin the fan come from? Ultimately? Think about it...Just keep telling yourself that!

Yarddogg: Well the power to spin an electric fan comes from the alternator which will pull the same amount of drag from the crank with or without the fan, gee have you thought about it?

Dumb Steve: Every time you find it leaking, and have to re-install it.

Yarddogg: It won't leak because I'm the one with the wrench

Dumb Steve: All carburetors are restrictive - that's how they work. If there was no restriction, it would have to have an injection pump, like a diesel.

Yarddogg: Sure all carburetors are restrictive, that's how they use vacuum to operate, but I did say the 1 barrel is too restrictive, and that I wanted a 2100 for more highway power. I can have a larger CFM carburetor which still mixes the correct fuel ratio to gain power without sacrificing economy. Carburetors also use something called a fuel pump, and an accelerator pump, wow what a concept, so I guess they do not operate solely on restriction after all huh> That means you're wrong again in case you missed it.

Dum Steve: The system that you're spending all this time, money, & effort to concoct & fabricate? Seems pretty elaborate to me.

Yarddogg: I'm sure it seems like a lot to a parts changes coming from a guy that put an entire donor truck under the hood of something instead of just buying a truck with EFI, what a waste of time. Money?! Not expensive at all. At $70 for a new carburetor, and some chump change in material to fabricate the intake, I'll be spending less than you annually on fuel and maintenance by a long shot.

Dumb Steve: Your ideas about what puts a drag on the crank don't seem to be based in simple physics or thermodynamics. Have you studied either subject yet?

Yarddogg: I guess you know more than Nascar, custom performance builders, todays auto manufacturers, super car builders, engineers, philosophers, and pretty much any 5 year girl with common sense. Just kidding, they've all got you beat., There is loads of information on the subjects I've mentioned all over the web, I would tell you to study but clearly you lack the common sense you realize when you have something to learn.

Dumb Steve: Too many to list, but the quick answer is: Ford hires better engineers,, and can support better parts suppliers, and has to offer a better warranty.

Yarddogg: Is that old truck of yours still under warranty? Better engineers, not at all chump. I'll bet at least 9 out of 10 cars on the road right in front of your eyes are using an electric fan, even newer fords.

Dumb Steve: The 2nd time a zone part left me stranded, I stopped buying ANYTHING from the zone. That was nearly 30 years ago.Good luck! When your engine has half as many as my stocker does now, let me know.

Yarddogg: Half as many what? You are nothing but a Ford fan, purist, and a parts changer, with very little mechanical aptitude or common sense, or ability to learn. Maybe you should give up this whole wrenching bit. Obviously you're to afraid to take a risk and bolt anything on your truck if there isn't already a, exploded view and directions to follow. Can't you fabricate? Probably not. Don't make me start pulling up links to show how pathetically ignorant and dumb you are about all things mechanical. I suggest you stay off of peoples threads with your garbage. You came on here trying to dispute every professional performance builder and modern factory automotive engineer in an attempt to say that your junk is better because it's yours. That's all it amounts to. I'm sure in your little brain your truck is super truck, what a joke. You're basically illiterate, you can't see past what you want to think about or believe even when there is more than enough proof for anyone to say your wrong. Learn something about the subjects you try to debate. I would slap the taste out of your mouth if you tried to argue with me like this in person. You lost your welcome on this thread in your second little rant. Don't bother responding, there's is nobody here that needs to hear anything from you unless it pertains to the way a stocker is assembled, or if it's already written in the Ford manual, because you have no critical thinking ability or common sense.

Steve83

There's none so blind...

265258

You're the dumbest person I've ever heard trying to be a know it all about motors. I was just at a machine shop today where there is a 80 yr old man who has been machining for 60 years and is a Ford guy who is very knowledgeable about the straight six. He agrees with all I'm doing. So I guess he must be wrong too huh? Just quit.

Coops064x4

If you really want more power from that 300 I would go with Clifford performance and be done with it. They have been doing the 6 cylinder line dance longer than anyone I know of. I did the Clifford bore and stroke on a jeep 6 and it really woke it up.