Deputy739

I've noticed a few topics on this already, but no solutions.
It's OK for a few miles while cold then it will start to 'buck' for a half a second once or twice. Then completely stall a couple of times within about a 10 mile or so drive. I can restart the engine on the fly coasting in N by completely turning the key off and back on again then turning to start. Starts right up and runs fine as if nothing happened.

If I don't turn the key all the way off when stalled and attempt to start from the ON position, the starter will crank but the engine will never start. Any help will be appreciated. I've replaced the distributor and icm, but when I changed it the first time the guy who worked at advanced auto said that dielectric grease is the same as heat sink grease so I used dielectric grease and it bucked and stalled. I took it back off and put heat sink grease, reinstalled and it seemed to do a little better, but it still dies as stated above. I was wondering if it's possible that the ignition control module would be damaged since it overheated?

JayzDaddy

Its possible . Im not real familiar with your system but i would look at the coil or something in the ignition system. Sounds like a loss of spark. Could be a pick up coil in distributor. $10 part but a new dizzy is about $80 and by the time you tear your dizzy down, put in part, reassemble and install its easier to put in a new on. Pull your codes and see if they tell you anything.

Deputy739

What kind of code scanner do I need?

JayzDaddy

You can buy a obd1 scanner or

Deputy739

Just wondering if my truck uses 2 or 3 digit trouble codes?

JayzDaddy

It uses both. A code 23 will flash 2 times pause 3 times pause repeat. Codes should flash 3 times then go to the next. Easiest way to do it is use a note book. Write down the first time through with spaces in between like this 2 3 then if it repeats itself on the same line put it together 23.

klricks

The underlined above is actually text that I wrote on a previous thread.

I had a look the other day and found that my PVC was loose and chattering and the hose to the PVC was wimpy and collapsing.
I also banged on the EGR a bit so don't know if that is a problem. Sometimes the EGR solenoid valve chatters as well.

Problem went away for awhile then back to so mild 'bucking' but no stalls in awhile. I haven't actually fixed the PVC hose yet.
I haven't pulled codes in awhile either.
The codes are 2 digit. I have a code reading tutorial on my web page showing how to read codes with a reader or with a simple test light.

Deputy739

I pulled the codes and it came back code 13- Cannot control RPM during ER Self-Test low RPM check. What the heck does that mean? Lol

Deputy739

Well, I finally fixed it. It was the pick up coil inside the distributor. The reason it threw me off was because I had already replaced that and must have got another bad one. Cheap junk at advanced auto.