1985 F150, request help diagnosing ignition problem.
Howdy folks,
First post here. My wife acquired a 1985 F150 Lariat in need of a lot of TLC, and we're embarking on our first attempt at a DIY repair. It became hard to crank, followed by something giving out with regards to turning the ignition key lock. There is no resistance when the key is turned, and it doesn't snap back to the run position. I removed the lower cover next to the dashboard, exposing the rod that connects to the ignition switch. When the key is turned forward, the rod shifts to the left and moves forward, and does the reverse when the key is moved backwards. I attempted to move the rod forward a bit more to see if that would crank the engine (saw this in a video on replacing the actuator arm), but got nothing. Have not been able to get my hands on a steering wheel puller yet to have a look at the actuator arm. When the key is turned all the way forward the "fasten seat belt" light comes on, the dashboard guages activate, and power windows, etc. are operational.
Does any of what I've described point to a probable culprit?
First post here. My wife acquired a 1985 F150 Lariat in need of a lot of TLC, and we're embarking on our first attempt at a DIY repair. It became hard to crank, followed by something giving out with regards to turning the ignition key lock. There is no resistance when the key is turned, and it doesn't snap back to the run position. I removed the lower cover next to the dashboard, exposing the rod that connects to the ignition switch. When the key is turned forward, the rod shifts to the left and moves forward, and does the reverse when the key is moved backwards. I attempted to move the rod forward a bit more to see if that would crank the engine (saw this in a video on replacing the actuator arm), but got nothing. Have not been able to get my hands on a steering wheel puller yet to have a look at the actuator arm. When the key is turned all the way forward the "fasten seat belt" light comes on, the dashboard guages activate, and power windows, etc. are operational.
Does any of what I've described point to a probable culprit?
I have replaced that cheap 'pot metal' actuator piece 2X. Once done at a shop. Once did myself and 3rd time it was not broken, but I replaced the whole column for other reasons.
In my case the rod became completely separated. If you can move the rod forward while turning or holding the key back at ACC position then the actuator is broken. If still attached then check the ignition switch first.
It is difficult to move the rod to start position with your hands only. I clamped a vise-grips on the rod and used that to start my engine for weeks until I got around to fixing it. Note that all the spring loading / retraction is in the ignition switch. The key is free spinning. There is an adjustment for the rod travel on the switch.
In my case the rod became completely separated. If you can move the rod forward while turning or holding the key back at ACC position then the actuator is broken. If still attached then check the ignition switch first.
It is difficult to move the rod to start position with your hands only. I clamped a vise-grips on the rod and used that to start my engine for weeks until I got around to fixing it. Note that all the spring loading / retraction is in the ignition switch. The key is free spinning. There is an adjustment for the rod travel on the switch.

