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Old 08-12-2011, 08:17 PM
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Angry 1979 Custom

Ok, I need some help here. I am new to personally working on a vehicle so any advice will be greatly appreciated. I recently swapped a Mustang for a 1979 Ford F150 Custom with the 300 straight 6 and the 4 speed manual transmission. When I brought it home I found it had no battery, no starter, no spark plugs and no wires. So of course I bought a new battery, a new starter, new plugs and a new set of wires and I tested the solenoid which showed it was getting power. My problem is is that it still wont turn on at all. Now I've heard conflicting reports that there is and yet there was not a neutral safety switch. Could this be an issue or was there even one? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
Old 08-12-2011, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 1979custom
Ok, I need some help here. I am new to personally working on a vehicle so any advice will be greatly appreciated. I recently swapped a Mustang for a 1979 Ford F150 Custom with the 300 straight 6 and the 4 speed manual transmission. When I brought it home I found it had no battery, no starter, no spark plugs and no wires. So of course I bought a new battery, a new starter, new plugs and a new set of wires and I tested the solenoid which showed it was getting power. My problem is is that it still wont turn on at all. Now I've heard conflicting reports that there is and yet there was not a neutral safety switch. Could this be an issue or was there even one? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
What do you mean by "wont turn on at all"?
Do the gauges and such turn on?
Does the starter crank the engine but no start?

Connect a test light to the small ignition wire on the solenoid. The light should turn on when you turn the key to the start position. If not then one of many possibilities is the neutral cutout switch if it has one.

Try shorting across the larger terminals on the solenoid with a large screwdriver and see if the starter turns.

How long was the engine sitting with no plugs? If open for a long time moisture can get in and rust the pistons /rings etc and seize the engine.
Old 08-13-2011, 09:17 AM
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The spark plugs were out for less than a week and once I gave it an oil change I hand moved the pistons and rods and they move freely with no apparent problems. What I mean by "nothing happens" is, once a new battery was in all of the electrics worked just fine, headlamps turned on, heater fan blew, instrument panel lit up - no problems. When I depress the clutch and turn the ignition on I dont get anything - kind of like I dont have a battery in. The starter doesnt crank or make a sound, thus nothing else starts moving. I tested the solenoid with a test light and it shows it is getting power throughout, thus my conundrum.
Old 08-13-2011, 10:02 AM
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This same thing happened to our suburban in the spring and it was the starter.
Old 08-13-2011, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 1979custom
The spark plugs were out for less than a week and once I gave it an oil change I hand moved the pistons and rods and they move freely with no apparent problems. What I mean by "nothing happens" is, once a new battery was in all of the electrics worked just fine, headlamps turned on, heater fan blew, instrument panel lit up - no problems. When I depress the clutch and turn the ignition on I dont get anything - kind of like I dont have a battery in. The starter doesnt crank or make a sound, thus nothing else starts moving. I tested the solenoid with a test light and it shows it is getting power throughout, thus my conundrum.
Bypass the solenoid by shorting across the 2 main terminals on the solenoid with a large screwdriver or wrench handle. (Shield your eyes from flying sparks). If engine cranks then there is a problem with the ignition circuit which include the ignition switch, neutral lockout switch, and/or the starting solenoid itself. (Or associated wiring with any of the above).

If engine does not crank when doing the solenoid bypass test then there can only be 1 or more of the following issues.
1. The cable between the solenoid and the starter is broken or loose connection(s).
2. Main battery cable from battery (+) to solenoid is bad or loose connection(s).
3. Main ground wire from battery (-) to the engine block is bad. Broken or loose connection(s)
4. The starter itself is bad.

Note that a loose connection can give good indications on the test light but fail during the high current demand of the starter.

Last edited by klricks; 08-13-2011 at 11:11 AM.
Old 08-13-2011, 11:41 AM
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Man I really appreciate the advice and when I get the chance I will check that out. Now I have had several weird interactions with people about this, but for the 70 F150 with the four speed manual transmission, was there or was there not a neutral safety switch??
Old 08-13-2011, 06:59 PM
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I don't have one on mine just a backup light switch, this is the New Process 435 correct?
Old 08-14-2011, 05:20 PM
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I have no idea what the type of transmission it is. I would assume since it is a 1979 300 I6 4 speed 4x4 that it is the New Process
Old 08-14-2011, 09:36 PM
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What's the transmission code on the door tag, if it is "A" it is the new process.
Old 01-29-2012, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 1979custom
Man I really appreciate the advice and when I get the chance I will check that out. Now I have had several weird interactions with people about this, but for the 70 F150 with the four speed manual transmission, was there or was there not a neutral safety switch??
No, 79 did not have a neutral safety switch. I have been down this road before both with a 4 speed and an automatic. Check that the ground from the battery is grounded well. Also check to see if the starter engages once power hit it (You can do this by removing it, setting it down and touch wires from the battery to the lead to see if it engages and spins). I once bought a new starter and three starters later I got one that worked. Remove it and take it to Advanced Discount, they can put it on a tester and check it for you. Also, the ECM (Electronic Control Module), a gray box on the Drivers fender can go out and absolutely think your dreams have been dashed. Cheap and easy to fix, around $30. My starter BLEW and took out the ECM, solenoid AND the battery going down the road in my 79 one time. It was a 3 day nightmare. I hope this helps!


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