Hi, I was given this 67 f100 by my wife's uncle and it was bought new by her grandfather. It has 74,550 miles and is a 352 v8 with automatic transmission and is short wheelbase. It sat up for about 7 years without being driven and when I got it delivered by a roll back to my house I started checking things out and the oil had mostly water and antifreeze in it and the dipstick showed to be extra full like about half way up the dipstick. It was a true milkshake look. The battery was dead as expected and I unhooked to battery cables and hooked them direct to my newer truck and the f100 did turn but I only let it for just a second to see that it would turn and immediately stopped so as to not damage anything. The truck has had many shade tree mechanics work on it through out it's life and that really shows. I removed the seat to be able to get to the tank just in case I wanted to remove it to drain out any old gas but it looks like I may can get a siphon to it to suck out any old gas. I would like to know ya'lls thoughts about the engine. I assume that the block is cracked or the head or heads are cracked or at the least it has a blown head gasket. I was going to try to explore what it might be but when I went to replace the oil pan drain bolt the hole is stripped from whoever did the last oil change which might explain why there seemed to be very little oil that was mixed with all the water when i drained it. I just don't know if it's worth fooling with this engine and going to a lot of trouble just to see what this engine will need or if i am better off trying to find another engine. I know I don't want all the electronics of a newer engine and I was even thinking of a straight six like the 300 or whatever might work. I'm on a tight budget with this project and can use any advice. I don't know exactly how to do anything with it until I can either fix the stripped oil pan drain bolt or just what since I cant really check anything out without getting it where I can at least run it. Thank you any help.

 

If it was mine I'd pull a valvecover to see how rusty it is inside. If its half full of water it will have lots of rust under the valve covers. Also pull the plugs and see if it will turn over by hand. If its seized, it has to come out.

You can get an oversize oil pan plug that will form new threads and tighten. If the engine is full of rust or siezed or a water oil mix, the pan plug is the least of your worries.

If there is no rust and you can turn it 2 full turns or more, than replace the plug or use some thread sealer just to get it to hold oil, and work towards getting it running.

At this point I don't think there is much you can do to hurt it.

Are the floors and frame solid? Having a limited budget may mean the work is better left to another owner. These types of projects take lots of cash, skill, experience and tools.
Truck projects almost never pay back.

Best of luck.

 

Those old FE motors are just about indestructible
There is an old article from the seventies titled "352 skidoo, hello 428"
I'd do something like that if you have to yank and rebuild the motor
Broken valve springs are common, bent pushrods are also common, on one of those FE motors if it sits for a while
I'd pull both valve covers for inspection before trying to crank it over
Note: FE stands for Ford Edsel, introduced in 58 for the Edsel line, the 427 (along with the 289) powered the AC Cobra
Today a 427 side oiler motor will set you back thousands

 

Thank you for your response. The motor does turn over with the starter, I tried it for just a few seconds. I see that I can get a oversized oil plug bolt which seems like a good idea at this point. The floors are very solid as well as the frame. I am going to focus on getting it running and see what happens once it gets hot.
Thank you

 

Thank you for your response, I really would like to keep this engine if possible. I guess I will fix the oil drain plug with an oversize tapping type plug and see if I can get it running and then see what it does when it gets hot.
Thank you

 

Once you install the new bigger self tapping drain plug
Replace it with one that has all threads, and do not use the self tapping one anymore
That way the new threads you just put in there might last longer

 

Thank you, I was wondering about that. I put the self tapping plug in and it snugged up ok.
Best regards
Johnny

 

Thanks everyone, I was able to get the truck running but it runs awful and sputters and spits and does not want to stay running. I checked the compression and three cylinders had zero and the rest had low to very low except for one which had 115. I guess I could have some stuff valves and who knows what else. I wonder if I can just remove the valve covers and tap on the valves and maybe free them up and if that might help the way it runs ?

 

I wouldn't put much time or effort into it until ownership is transferred, if that has happened good.
If not, and there is something that crops up later like a missing title or proof of ownership you will have a lawn ornament that you can't register, insure, or drive.

What is the end goal for this project? Daily driver? Weekend warrior? Flip?
I dont see power steering, air conditioning or power brakes. That truck won't ever drive like a modern vehicle and will need some serious upgrades, especially a dual pot master cylinder for safety.

Parts availability is another concern. Parts for an 87 are scarce, let alone a 67. It will get 10 mpg coasting down hill. Without a power brake/disc brake upgrade you'll have to anticipate panic stops a half block in advance.

Try to have an end goal mind before proceeding. It will help you to decide next steps and how you'll execute them. I.E., if its fix it up and take it to shows or just leisure driving, the motor should be pulled, brakes, suspension, steering, electrical, tires, fuel system, electrical, tune up, exhaust, cooling, will all need time and money. Are you familliar with point type ignitions, setting timing, dwell, carb rebuilds and adjustments and so on?

As far as suspecting a valve issue, you'll need to do more digging. I wouldn't start with pulling the valve covers and tapping anything with a hammer.

Hope this helps. I've been there.

 

Thank you for your thoughts. I have the clear title in hand. I plan to just make it a running, driving truck and then I will probably just keep reviving it as I have time and funds to put into it. I only want it to all work properly and I have no intention of selling it since it was bought new by my wife's grandfather. I have thought that if making the original motor run is not realistic cost wise then I will either change to a 360 or 390. I have thought about going to a 300 6 cyl. It's nice that I don't have to be in a hurry and yet I also do not want it to just sit in my drive way and not be useable. I really would love to get it to a drivable state with the 352 engine that's in it and possibly that will happen. I might get lucky and it just have stuck valves and a bad intake gasket or maybe head gaskets. It seems that it makes more sense to get another engine instead of trying to rebuild the 352 because they just are so expensive to rebuild.