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Brand new to these forums with my new to me 21. I have been able to install a subwoofer and amp on my own in every other vehicle I have owned. I cannot for the life of me get the power wire routed into the truck. The picture here of the boot below the dash and then bring it out into the engine compartment... I cannot find that same set up in my engine compartment. Think I am just going to risk it and go with Best Buy unless anyone else has some ideas?
Pop the rubber grommet off, put a flashlight on it, and then look under the dash on either side to see where the light comes out.
"A 'full-range' signal is sent to all from the ACM, there's simple capacitor/coil filters integral with each speaker (which are not indicated in the wiring diagram, attached FYI)."
So, that would indicate that I can use that line. I will be doing this later today. I will update with the result. If it is filtered and I need to tap in somewhere else, I will let you know. I did not see in this person's post if he had a B&O system or standard.
on random start ups radio not allowing the left speaker system to work im on a non B&O system, almost daily the right side door and dash tweeter work with no issue but the left keeps not playing, i have done the (on/off) and seek, reset also holding the forward and audio down on steering wheel to do a reset doesnt work, i have removed fuses for apim, which doesnt reset anything except turn on off screen, i have removed every fuse tryn to reset it, the only real reset is disconnect battery and wait, or hope on next restart its ready to work,i have shut truck off, exit and lock alarm attempt to retarts, with radio hopefully working , im bringing this up since i have a 3k amp and spare batt and 12inch sundowns U series , this radio issue was there before i installed anything i fig i could live with it now its a pain in the rear
I posted here beginning of last month after hours to days of scouring sites and forums .came to the conclusion my battery maybe the issue..i have a roush 5.0 with a h6 battery and my trips are less then 10minutes from start up warm up to job site .. after searching radio issues where half the radio is playing specifically the left side dead on start up.and door bell chime was coming from cluster only,i didn't have any battery issues. it got worse after i got my trans cooler fan that kicks on a sec before the initial start up.. keep in mind i dont get battery low alarms..few guys here and other forums report the H6 battery isnt strong enuff to carry a heavy load for a few micro seconds prior start up cranking amps usage..purchased a H8 everstart from Walmart here in tx..and now all the radio issues seem to have gone away.. also have an inline lithium for my car audio 12s set up in my reg cab. I did purchase a bluetooth battery checker and showd my sitting voltage at 12.54 all the time H6.. with the H8 my sitting voltage sits at 12.7to 12.8all the time thats with truck off in garage for 12hrs..this issue has been ongoing since 1rst few days of owning truck and dealership was trash didnt want to deal with them,waiting a day for them to tell me it was a known issue, isnt my type of day wasting. Figuring it was the Ford radio non-B&0 system issue ..but going on 2weeks now the H8 ..has been strong with no radio issues..and my gauges at lowest settings are bright asf..
***************************TLDR******
CONSTANT RADIO ISSUES, CONTRIBUTED TO ITTY BITTY BATTERY FROM FOMOCO FACTORY..
UPGRADED TO H8 BATTERY NOW TRUCK STRONG,MANY MOONS TO COME WITH SMILE FOR MILES Battery difference from factory H6 ,H8 Dual 12s sundown, with lithium battery 3k watts 🤌
This is an old thread, but I wanted to bump and say thanks to the OP and all of the helpful posts afterward. I used this method to add an amp to my '22 Lightning with the 6(7?)-speaker system. Most of it was identical, but I don't seem to have the center dash speaker. I also had to go through a different grommet in the firewall because there was no easy access to the other side of that big harness. I almost removed the frunk for better access, but I was able to snake it through.
I am planning on doing the same thing to my ‘23 lightning. Did the wiring color provided in the write up match your lightning? And what grommet did you end up using to get power through to the battery in the front?
Do we know what size the front speakers are on the base stereo? I went to a local installer and he was convinced that they are 6x9's but crutchfield has it as only the 6.5 / 6.75" round ones work...
I am planning to do a 10" powered JL sub and just upgrade the front speakers (unamplified) for now. Hopefully that will suffice, and if not I can always add another amp for them.
my ‘21 f-150 base system had 6x9” but they only have 3 bolt holes for factory speakers so I got an adapter plate so now I’m rocking kicker 6x9 3ways and love them!!!!! Some people cut the oem speakers out of factory mount and bolted new speakers to them but I just used an adapter plate. So on rear doors I did the same but used 6.75” with adapter plates and I love the sound! Hope this helps
Lots of good info here but the common thing i see in a few posts is the use of Scotch locks to tap into wires.. Take the time to splice into wires properly scotch locks should be banned as they are just a source for failure.
