First time Post! I just bought a 2022 XLT Supercrew short bed, my 4th F150. It has the 12" screen, 302a package with Sync4. The audio in the truck was not great, so after reading good reviews on the Ford's Kicker subwoofer upgrade, I had the dealership install it ($800). I was not impressed. So much bass, and the door stock speakers sounded worse. Not much highs, very mid-range and flat, and the EQ setting are limited. Even with the bass setting turned all the way down, it has too much bass and the stock door speakers sound flat. I took it back to Ford to see if the Kicker amp could be adjusted, and they said no. The dealer said they installed per manufacturers instructions. So I took it to an car audio place, and after spending $1000, they upgraded my stock speakers to Memphis M series speakers. Unfortunately the speakers do not sound any different! They said I should look into installing a DSP and amp for my new door speakers, another $1500-$2000. So currently I am $1800 in, and they want another ~$2000 to make it right. In frustration, I unplugged the harness on the Kicker amp, and surprising, I am pleased with the sound with my new door speakers alone!

My question - can the Kicker amp be adjusted? I would not mind more bass and fully sound, but I am not interested in spending any more money. I have read about Forscan setttings that can change older F150 models, but I haven't seen much on the 2022s. Any help would be appreciated!!

 

I bought a Plugnplay kits kicker key 200.4 with the kicker hideaway 10”. All plug and play and pre wired except for power for the hideaway.
You are beyond that now but I have to say the stock speakers sounded really good with the 50 watts they just needed more power and better signal. The Key is a DSP and works well. I did upgrade my speakers since and it’s a pretty nice system.
Look into his kit, install one, ditch the center speaker and it will sound good.
Unless you really want to geek out on 1000s of watts.

 

Did you use the plugnplay kit and install your DSP at the hideaway location (behind the rear seat)? If so, were your able to balance all speakers in your truck, including the sub, with this DSP location?

 

Are you saying that after the sub was installed that the sound of the door speakers changed?

 

Yes. The sub is very loud, but the door speaker sound quality was drastically decreased, or maybe overshadowed by the loud bass of the sub, even after installing aftermarket door speakers. Then when I unplugged the amp harness to the sub, my door speaker’s quality increased. But now I have a sub not being used. Seems like they don’t play well together in the sandbox.

 

Wow that sucks.
sounds like the sub and it’s interface is either incorrect or maybe like you said it is just overshadowing the door speakers.
I honestly would have been happy with just the kicker key and some upgraded speakers without the kicker hideaway sub. The key made the door and pillar speakers really come alive. They are only rated for 25 watts and the key gives them 50. I upgraded the speakers to some 80 watt direct fits off of crutchfield and they rock. I couldn’t figure out how to get the whole dash apart so I just stuck the key under the center speaker, there was room there on top of the air vent tubes. It plugs right into the back of the factory radio and harness, it can all be done through the top of the center dash speaker area. It will give your doors all 50 watts each with a built in dsp and eq. The key programs the sound stage and it honestly sound amazing. I disconnected the center speaker and the key’s time delay makes it sound like the singer is on your dashboard. When you turn off the dsp and eq functions you hear the sounds come from the individual speakers, turn it back on and the sound all blends to the middle of the truck. It can be plugged in without running or cutting one wire. Part of the problem with your upgraded speakers is that they are probably designed for way more wattage than the factory unit will supply and have a lower sensitivity rating. Send some more power and cleaner signal to them and they will come alive. Again I was pleased with the factory speakers getting more power and they sounded great but I blew one in the back door so I upgraded. Again the factories are only 25 watts and I jammed 50 watts into them. Knowing what I know now after having the key and I were you I would just put the key in, unplug the sun and center speaker, run the kicker tune and then only plug the sub back in after. That key setup with the harness is probably under 400 bucks.

 

That sounds reasonable! Thanks for the advice! Now I just need to work up the courage for the install!

 

It’s literally pop one cover off, remove two screws, pop a second cover off and unplug replay two connectors. Tune it and put it back together.

 

So, before I decide to take on this amp install (and because the plug and play harnesses are on backorder), I contacted Kicker tech support. They are telling me that Ford (most likely) did not program the amp properly with the IDS tool (forscan). I am waiting on Ford to acknowledge (or deny) this. In the meantime, is it recommended to purchase my own Forscan tool and make adjustments? Many of the forums and videos posted make it seem easy to do with limited experience, but also mention that you can screw it up easily as well.

I have also found that if you upgrade to high quality aftermarket door speakers, you can make adjustments for these as well through Forscan too to increase the sound quality?

I would like to explore the Forscan settings before adding additional amps, and to hopefully make use of the Kicker amp/sub.

 

Use Hushcaraudio harness, not plugnplay. The plugnplay guy is a complete *** and his customer service is absolutely horrible. Hush is way better.