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Whipple issues and comments on the new closed air box

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Old 02-19-2019, 05:33 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by TX-Ripper
This box will lower your iats more then the open box not sealing to the hood.

if you guys remember I sealed the top of my open box with foam and lowered my iats close to 20 degrees. This was all with the front of the air box open just like it is on the closed air box.
I agree that sealing the top of the box, since heat goes up, would be logical that temps would be lowered. I guess my main question is if that do you think if that big hole were not in the bottom would that the scoop be able to move enough air?
Old 02-19-2019, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by RayoVac
I agree that sealing the top of the box, since heat goes up, would be logical that temps would be lowered. I guess my main question is if that do you think if that big hole were not in the bottom would that the scoop be able to move enough air?
Dustin says it would choke the system so they opened it back up.

In my experience the opening on the open box seal at the top was not a problem when the vehicle is moving.

Old 02-19-2019, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by BadCon
Lowered your IAT's, or IAT2's? I've always been curious if a direct drop in IAT is equal to a direct drop in IAT2. My testing says no...of course there is a drop, but its not 1 to 1. However my tests were not scientific in any way shape or form.
The map sensor on the 2018 whipple kit only has 1 intake air temperature pid “iat” ( or iat1 vs iat2) this reading is post intercooler in the lower intake manifold.

Last edited by TX-Ripper; 02-19-2019 at 06:01 PM.
Old 02-19-2019, 08:03 PM
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So I got a nice email back today from Mike Malicoat. Here was the replies to my issues:

Raymond. To answer your questions. Please see below:
  1. Bracket is not needed, nor used, which is why the inserts are not installed.
  2. Cut out on the bottom is to pull cool air from behind head light and grill area. No, snorkel cannot flow enough air, nor can the opening in the hood. The hood shrouds half the snorkel (stock Ford design). An open filter pulls from all around, this only pulls from the front of vehicle.
  3. 2nd hole connects to brake booster check valve.
  4. Honestly, I am not sure why the o-ring was sent. It does not go on the air box anywhere.
  5. There should be no hood to air box clearance issue. It is the same air kit that Shelby is running on the F150's as well as all the Raptor/Ecoboost 3.5L are running.
  6. The lid will not seal to the base. The lid seals to the panel filter and the panel filter to the base.
So it all makes sense except I think I will fabricate a bracket to screw to the divots already there on the box and use the existing rubber grommet and bolt that the old airbox hung from. And duh... did not even think of the box not closing due to it NEEDING the filter in there to seal against (I feel like an idiot).

They are going to send me the bigger fasteners, but frankly the ones currently on my intake come out properly so I can reuse them.

So from pissed off to "Ok" with it all. But instructions, a bracket, info on the extra hole... would have been a helpful de-fuser of the problems. Won't get to mess with it again now until I am back home from travel this Friday. Hopefully I won't have any hood clearance issues.

Rayo
Old 02-19-2019, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by RayoVac
So I got a nice email back today from Mike Malicoat. Here was the replies to my issues:

Raymond. To answer your questions. Please see below:
  1. Bracket is not needed, nor used, which is why the inserts are not installed.
  2. Cut out on the bottom is to pull cool air from behind head light and grill area. No, snorkel cannot flow enough air, nor can the opening in the hood. The hood shrouds half the snorkel (stock Ford design). An open filter pulls from all around, this only pulls from the front of vehicle.
  3. 2nd hole connects to brake booster check valve.
  4. Honestly, I am not sure why the o-ring was sent. It does not go on the air box anywhere.
  5. There should be no hood to air box clearance issue. It is the same air kit that Shelby is running on the F150's as well as all the Raptor/Ecoboost 3.5L are running.
  6. The lid will not seal to the base. The lid seals to the panel filter and the panel filter to the base.
So it all makes sense except I think I will fabricate a bracket to screw to the divots already there on the box and use the existing rubber grommet and bolt that the old airbox hung from. And duh... did not even think of the box not closing due to it NEEDING the filter in there to seal against (I feel like an idiot).

They are going to send me the bigger fasteners, but frankly the ones currently on my intake come out properly so I can reuse them.

So from pissed off to "Ok" with it all. But instructions, a bracket, info on the extra hole... would have been a helpful de-fuser of the problems. Won't get to mess with it again now until I am back home from travel this Friday. Hopefully I won't have any hood clearance issues.

Rayo
Dustin emailed back saying that the orignal plan was to use a bracket but the tolerance with the roto mold boxes vary “wildly” (leading to the bracket not fitting ever) and they found the boxes to stay in place all of the time without a bracket.

Between the pins above the radiator plastics, the nipples on the bottom of the box that go in the factory lower bracket below the box and the tube to the throttle body I’m sure it will stay put.

Last edited by TX-Ripper; 02-19-2019 at 10:26 PM.
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Old 02-23-2019, 04:24 AM
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So I got home from my week of travel tonight and thought I would try again with the Closed Airbox. Accepting the hole in the bottom and realizing the top is meant to sandwich the filter in between thus whey it was not fitting. Figured I would have to reuse my push clips as the ones they send are pretty much worthless.

So after farting around with it for a couple of hours, I come to the realization there is no way its going to work without modification. As @smdandb2 found my hood does not clear the scoop. And while I could force it to close, the drivers front corner was now up higher than the quarter panel. That's just not gonna work for me. It frustrating because the alignment of the push clip holes suck as well, also as @smdandb2 found.

While I know I could grind on it, modify it to work, I just don't feel like I want to spend this kind of money to be a beta tester. I sent Mike a message tonight asking for them to send me a return shipping label. Its going back. For the level of modification it's going to take to make it work, I would rather try and make a S&B or Airaid box work. At least with those you have a well designed good fitting and looking product to start with.

Last thought Mike told me they have those on the Shelby trucks without issue, I wonder if those hoods are different?

Rayo



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