One Slow 5.0

How long is your driveshaft because DSS told me they wouldn't do either the carbon or aluminum shafts?

rojizostang

it's about 68"...that's without putting the truck up on stands and measuring. That's a pretty rough guess though as couldn't see the pinion flange when I had the ruler laying on the ground. I could see the transmission flange and just kind of guessed where the back flange is.

If Driveshaft Specialists would do a one piece driveshaft it would be great, but apparently they don't have the parts to build a one piece aluminum driveshaft that has a plunge cv joint on one end. The plunge cv joint that DSS uses has about 1" of movement in it. I would have to get measurements at ride height and then with the rear end hanging down to see how much difference in length there is to see if 1" movement is enough. I have the rear end limited already though so the slam air bags don't get hyperextended. I could always take the driveshaft loose if I need to let the rear suspension sag all the way down, if I had to.

With the 5" one piece driveshaft I'm pretty sure I would have to cut the center carrier bearing crossmember completely out. I would hate to do that and then have a vibration that would require putting a two piece driveshaft back in. That would suck.

rojizostang

I'm thinking as short as the rear driveshaft would be if I did a hybrid, it could easily get by with even a 3.5" aluminum. It's probably less than 3 feet long from ujoint to ujoint

blue5.0

For the same cost would a converter be the better buy? Although you are already cutting 1.7 60's.....

rojizostang

from a performance standpoint I'm sure the converter would be better....for the same money I could buy the converter, but I wouldn't tackle installing it.

BadCon

From a performance standpoint there are whole lot of other things you could spend that $1100 on, the driveshaft is for reliability and strength. I'd bet you money it doesn't make a damn bit of difference in your ET's....aside from allowing you to get to the end of the track without failure lol.

One Slow 5.0

Scariest ride ive ever been on was in my buddies 67 chevelle back in high school broke a drive shaft at about 50-60 mph and pogoed the *** end of the car a couple feet off the ground ended up in a ditch. Everycar ive owned that ran street slicks or slicks has had a driveshaft loop and an aftermarket shaft.

UNBROKEN

iTrader: (1)

The peace of mind is worth the price...especially for the way I play. 150+ on a stock driveshaft..no thanks.

rojizostang

I've always wanted to do the Texas mile. It's the only place I would try going that fast lol.

yonson

I will ALWAYS replace the factory driveshaft when raising/removing the speed limiter on a truck. Over the years I've had 3 of them fail when raising the speed limiters on trucks (Ford, GM and dodge), it ain't pretty...