Bigcat1185

iTrader: (1)

mass-hole

The foil is good for radiant, but i suspect that the intake pipes might get a nice blast of hot air from the radiator since they sit just behind it. It would probably be wise to have something that blocks convection/conduction heat transfer as well.

You really dont need much insulation to make a big difference though. A having an insulation vs none usually drops the heat transfer 80-90%. Additional insulation after that is simply chewing away at that last 10% so the cost/benefit quickly diminishes.

2017bluetruck

Well I did some insulating with 1/8 inch foam aluminum backed duct insulation. The air box and the CAC to manifold tube so far. Did a few recorded drives for IAT2 temps to compare with earlier stock data logs. No difference so far, could be the plastic transfers so little temperature difference and the air is moving through fast enough. With my truck fully warmed up I get a max 19 degrees lowest to highest temp that varies with the shutters, drive with cruise on at 55mph,
. May still try the air box to turbo pipes, should have enough insulation left for that. Used a $20 roll of insulation, and aluminum tape, Frost King duct insulation

w00t692

Try taking off the cover over the intake manifold on top of the engine and putting that insulation on the underside of the intake manifold and runners. See if that does anything.

2017bluetruck

I did take temps with IR thermometer and it's hotter under the cover than on top yet the manifold was only 130's after shutting down, that's cooler than my old aluminum manifolded vehicles a lot more than a cast iron manifold. I have to admit though the under hood temps on my 2.7 seem lower than a lot of other vehicles I've owned, fully warmed and after driving I found very few under-hood parts above 115 degrees, except for the obvious, turbos, exhaust, cooling system, but will be checking more often to make sure. I think it may be attributed to the amounts of composites used vs metal castings.
Lots of things to try that are inexpensive and home shop doable. I also did check the seal between the air intake and hood, it seals very well and only gets intake from the front of the radiator the chalk marks applied to the seals transferred clearly to the hood with no gaps. The factory CAI does just that and quite well! I have removed and reinstalled the shutters but need to do some logging to confirm the noticed drops in IAT2. I did have the shutters connected when checking the insulated parts vs stock.
I understand the public's resistance to using composite part on an IC engine, but think they do play an important part in preventing a lot of heat transfer. Will keep experimenting with what I can do at home. But do drool over a full CAC upgrade. I wonder if anybody makes silicone intake piping, neat, and very effective at reducing heat transfer either way (have seen this on high performance sport cars particularly Euro? KM

2017bluetruck

Notice my son's new 2019 has no cover, picked up comments about lower IAT's so I have been doing more experimenting. Data logs from last year with the cover on run a consistent 15 degrees higher than the log just recorded peak IAT went down more than 20. As I get time will do back to back logs, same day and drive, for a more accurate comparison. KM

LTNBOLT

On forced induction with an air to water intercooler there is not much to be had on the air intake temp side of things. You are better off trying to keep your intercooler temps down. That is where the HP is at.

I went through all of this back in my Lightning days. It was easier to monitor it because it had an IAT1 and IAT2. The IAT1 was after the air filter and IAT2 was after the intercooler.

I had a totally open air filter and later bought a setup that was a metal box with an open top. It had a plastic air scoop that mounted below the front bumper with 2 hoses that came up to the airbox. One came to the bottom on the airbox and the other came to the hole in the side of the driver side fender where the factory airbox intake boot connected. It would bring the temps down quicker and keep them a little cooler on the IAT1 side but that was about it. After much track testing and street testing it would have cooler IAT1 temps until you were moving through the air and then it might stay about 5-10 degrees cooler. The bottom line is when the vehicle is moving it flushes out much of the hot air and the most difference I logged was 2 degrees cooler IAT2 temps. The were no measurable differences in ETs at the track.

It all go back to the intercooler temps. The few degrees you bring down the intake temps are negated by the supercharger heating it up. I would be willing to bet the newer closed airbox is not running better times at the track. I think it might have a couple of holes in bottom of it so it won't be a restriction. At least that is what I read somewhere.

If you are Naturally Aspirated none of this applies in your case.

2017bluetruck

LTNBOLT,
No too to interested in 1/4 times just looking at home-mods that cost little with the stock and tune. The insulating did not add much this does look to be a simple improvement, far as my information.

You did mention air to water intercooler, and a sealed airbox with body edge air intake. The stock airbox is sealed and supplied with outside air from the factory and last I looked the CAC is air to air, has no holes in the system, when I got this 2.7EB I checked out the how the plumbing worked. Not going to debate benefit or lack of either method. Also I am monitoring IAT2 temps.

I did want to come back with some results in this forum the insulation project quickly developed into very little gain for the effort, but my cost was only time and a $5 roll of aluminum duct tape (insulation sheets I had laying around).
The cover removal was simply just that, 30 seconds of turning a wrench and removal for a drop in temps between 10 and 25 degrees. Results are from datalogs I take via a GTX tunner and Livelink, and charting IAT2 temps along with a bunch of other logged info. At this point I want to eliminate condition factors as much as I can. This did look to drop IAT2 temps about 10-20% but I want to check my results.
I'm retired and enjoy fiddling with these simple mods, just thought I's share the results. KM

w00t692

He's talking about air to water because that's what the whipples and PD superchargers run since they heat the air up so much and due to their design they have to run an air to water cooler.

My buddy has the a/c killer chiller on his mustang. He just pops that on to cool his water while cruising and then he gets intake temps in the 50's when it's hot outside and in the 30's when it's cold outside. He has to run antifreeze mix so it doesn't freeze.

2017bluetruck

Figured that as descriptions of equipment don't match. Made no secret of what I have, a 2.7 EB in stock hardware configuration. KM