blue5.0

I wish I would have went this route.

BadAV

Do the converter. Skip the 4.10s. Picking the correct stall will make a big difference. You don't need 4.10s with the 10 speed.

blue5.0

I think he has a 13 with the 6 speed.

BadAV

My mistake. Was thinking it said 17 when I posted. Must have thought I was on a previous thread I was reading.

I would still do the converter. It's amazing what picking the correct converter will do. Talk with Circle D.

rojizostang

I was avoiding the converter because of cost and more involved tuning (I think, I'm not a tuner) and because I still drive it on the street, even though it isn't my daily. I might do it however if when it comes to a total expenditure, the converter turns out to be a better bang for the buck.

yes 6 speed auto

One Slow 5.0

I have a circle d converter in my and still tow and daily drive.

BadAV

Do your research, pick the correct converter, and you can drive it just like a factory converter on the street. Tuning for a converter is very basic and easy. Circle D can discuss your wants/needs and recommend an appropriate converter, as can Yank and several others.

One Slow 5.0

Dyno, and weigh the truck before ordering a converter. That information along with gear ratio and tire size will help the converter company match your stall.

rojizostang

I did the dyno/datalog today. I'm getting different suggestions (i'm also talking to a local tuner/racer/coyote guy) regarding the converter, and I'm hearing something different from him. In short, according to him (i'm can't debate the point) the converter is a good idea IF I had a turbo car or a centrifugal supercharger. He says his experience with a PD blower and the amount of torque it makes down low that a converter really isn't as effective. The truck hasn't been weighed.

I will say that the tune from one of our famous on line tuners was/is really an impediment. It was commanding a 10.4 afr, timing was at 9 degrees total at wot on the big end, and the throttle was closing because of an induced lean condition because of the commanded afr. The numbers were 455rwhp and 476ft lbs. Looking at the datalogs and fuel pump info, we've decide to go from the 80mm pulley to a 75mm pulley, as there seems to be significant room in the tune for it. Boost was 9.5lbs.

In addition, we did the quarter on the dyno, and it trapped at 111mph at only 5800 rpm with the drag tires on it. Also the throttle had an issue related to shifting and the induced lean condition already referenced. After looking at all the information supplied, the tuner and I determined that the 4.10 gears, pulley and a retune would/should make a huge difference in both dyno numbers and elapsed times.

Thanks to everyone for their input, and for now this is the route I'm going. If I don't get sub 12 second time slips then I'll cross that bridge at that time. We may go e85, or long tubes perhaps, but at this point the converter isn't in play.

If I don't hit the mark, you guys are free to say "told you so!!!"

blue5.0

Good luck. No one on here will say they told you so. Hope the build goes well. Just think your dollars can be spent elsewhere and yield better gains. I think 3.73's with the 6R80 and the blower are an optimal setup already.