UNBROKEN

iTrader: (1)

Fladoans

I wanted to say thank you for all the work that went into this build. The timing is perfect for me. I just bought an 2018 F150 2wd Super Cab and have already lowered it myself and am installing a stereo right now. I have always planned on installing a supercharger – but had I thought I would have Ford install a Roush. After reading all the reviews on the Whipple I started leaning toward them. I had already download the Whipple install instructions and had been reading them to figure out if I want to do this install myself when, I found this thread.

After reading this thread I have decided to move forward and do the work myself. Your build is so well documented they should make this a sticky somewhere. Between this post and the Whipple Manual I think almost anyone could install one of these.

This will be my 4th vehicle with a supercharger in it, I had a 00 Lighting, still have a 04 Lightning and just got rid of a 2016 Z06 Corvette. I am very interested to see how the Whipple compares to the other ones I had before.

Congratulations on the completion of your build and thanks again for all the documentation.

johnday in BFE

iTrader: (1)

Hey Mike, only when you get time, and wipe the smile off your face, feedback on seat of the pants feeling is a must.

ruckus2115

Well that was a fun thread to read through. Great work with the write up. I have never had a supercharger on a vehicle but have always wanted to do this install. My biggest concern is longevity of the stock engine

OCMike

iTrader: (1)

Just to let you guys know I did hear back from Whipple and shared with them my post on what the issue was with the wire harness. So my call/email was not ignored.

​​​​​​Thanks...This thing is going to fun.

No problem, any question that might come up if you go that way, I think you can find help here. I also have an OLD ‘01 C5 Z06 that's basically stock except for exhaust. In it’s day is was fast car, still no slouch. I have no doubt this truck would probably clean it’s clock, at least for the first 1/8 mile.

Thanks John…A gearhead kid I work with took it out to lunch today. He couldn't get over the fact that even with the big 35" tires the traction control kicks in when you nail the throttle at 40 MPH.

It would be a concern if you were pushing it hard all the time. Honestly if you were doing that the chances are you would lose your drivers licenses long before anything broke. Another thing I like about the F150 install is the relative size of the engine compartment is so roomy compared to a car. Under hood heat would not get as bad. I have an older twin turbo BMW V8 in a 5 series. The under hood temps are UGLY and the engine and relative components bake them self to death. After driving this hard during lunch today the temps didn’t go much above 200F. My Bimmer will run upwards of 240F and cooks itself.

Mike

OCMike

iTrader: (1)

In the box with the air box parts you should find a grommet and aluminum barb quick disconnect. First install the grommet into the Whipple air intake tube, followed by the quick disconnect.



Slide the air intake tube into the airbox, using included worm clamp attach the kit supplied filter.


The kit with the large throttle body ships with a silicone hose, and two worm drive clamps. Attach one end of the hose to throttle body the other to the air inlet and secure with the clamps.


Finish off the air intake by installing the hose supplied in the kit that runs from the quick disconnect just installed on the air inlet tube to the PCV vent quick disconnect on the valve cover.

HWill

Did you also not get the rubber trim that goes into the round opening on the airbox?
That was the only thing missing in my kit. I called and they are sending it out.

Herb

OCMike

iTrader: (1)

The one that goes into the air box from the scoop? No...I didn't know there was one...My instructions do not even mention the scoop. I installed it but your right there's a big gap around it. I was going to get to that soon...Glad you brought it up.

Mike

OCMike

iTrader: (1)

The location for the relay & fusee for the intercooler circulation pump to me doesn't seem like it's the best spot but I'm going by the book so here is what I did.

There is a 1/4" hole in side of the battery box towards the front of the truck. This is where Whipple says to mount the relay and fuse for the I/C pump. The relay and wire harness is shipped as one piece, it's very obvious what they are.

Mount the relay using the included push into the battery box.


Next Whipple wants you to connect to the positive battery connection.


Then connect the ground, only problem here is the location that Whipple recommends using, the wire won't reach. Fortunately there is a ground located close to the windshield washer reservoir where the wire is the perfect length.I hid the kit harness under the factory ground pretty much out of sight.





The next step got a little tricky. The red wire with a "Add a Circuit" fuse on it that connects in the fuse box that activate the relay that senses if the engine is running was too short. (Sort of)

It was long enough though if you removed the tape from the plastic conduit and broke it out of the harness, then it would reach. There was an empty 6" piece of wire conduit included in the kit, so I was able to "Y" the conduit out about 6" from the end then ran the red wire up to the fuse box. Might as well plug fuse 50 in now for the fuel pump, if you didn't already.




The last part of the wiring I did this way. The kit supplied harness that runs from the relay to the pump was very long. There are more direct ways to get to the pump but I didn't really want a coil of wire somewhere so I ran the wire out near where the lower I/C hose comes out of the LTR. From there I ran across the bumper with the fog lamp wires and then down to the pump. This was almost the perfect length.

HWill

No there is suppose to be rubber trim in the round hole that the intake tube goes through. First part of Step 110.

Herb