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2018 5.0 Whipple numbers straight from Whipple.

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Old 06-16-2018, 04:49 PM
  #481  
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Quick update: the new Whipple tune shifts at 6400 in normal and 6400 in sport after 3rd gear.

Also the knock sensors add 1 degree of timing every cycle (used to be .5 degrees) which brings timing in much faster with good fuel.

Seams like whipples tuner reworked the knock sensor strategy (a lot) and that’s were the gas mileage increase came from.

Transmission shifting is much improved but I spoke too soon about the bad 1-2 shift at very light throttle being fixed.

It’s not fixed.

It’s like the trans mission doesn’t know which gear to go into, 2nd or 3rd, it hangs and rpms flare up then shifts to 2nd hard.

Even if whipple was shifting to 6600-6800 at wot, I would be moving to a custom tune based on that bad 1-2 shift alone. I drive a lot at 0-15 mph at very light throttle (which seems to be the only time this bad shift happens).

Last edited by TX-Ripper; 07-04-2018 at 10:09 PM.
Old 06-16-2018, 05:32 PM
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When you guys are reading IAT are you reading IAT or IAT2? Granted I have a Roush but my intake temp is 20-25 over ambient and IAT2 is 15-25 over IAT. So I could be 35-50 degrees over ambient. I’m running a triple pass give AFCO HE with dual fans.
Old 06-16-2018, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by justinb491
When you guys are reading IAT are you reading IAT or IAT2? Granted I have a Roush but my intake temp is 20-25 over ambient and IAT2 is 15-25 over IAT. So I could be 35-50 degrees over ambient. I’m running a triple pass give AFCO HE with dual fans.
The ngauge I use has pids for iat and iat2.

I’m reading iat, iat2 shows -40 all the time (which means it’s not used in the strategy I have)
Old 06-18-2018, 03:20 PM
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The 2015+ use a MAP sensor (no MAF) and the MAP sensor has a Temperature probe built into it. The MAP sensor is after the intercooler (in the intake manifold) whether it is a Procharger or Whipple. So the regular IAT is the intake charge temp. I know the Lightnings used to have 2 IATs from the factory. The first one was by the MAF which is by the Air Intake (air filter). The second one is in the Intake manifold after the Intercooler.
Old 06-19-2018, 03:03 PM
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I was able to lower my IAT Temps about 5 more degrees and slow heat soak.

I “shimmed” the air box up to close the gap on the back of the box (got it much closer to the hood liner)

I then added some rubber hvac pipe insulation to the outer edge of the air box (over the weather stripping that came with the whipple box)

Pretty much sealing the air box when the hood is closed.




Now I just need to increase the radiator fan speeds at normal operating temperature above 70 degrees ambient temperature...

Last edited by TX-Ripper; 06-19-2018 at 03:17 PM.
Old 06-19-2018, 03:11 PM
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Don’t laugh, it worked.
Old 06-19-2018, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by TX-Ripper
Don’t laugh, it worked.
Every little bit helps.
Old 06-19-2018, 04:01 PM
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The Whipple box should be doing this already.

its shaped to seal off at the hood but when I installed mine at the highest position it left bout a 1 1/2 inch gap .

Old 06-19-2018, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by TX-Ripper
The Whipple box should be doing this already.

its shaped to seal off at the hood but when I installed mine at the highest position it left bout a 1 1/2 inch gap .

The Whipple air box is poorly designed. I haven’t even put the included gasket on the top of the air box because I don’t like how it is designed. I need to find or engineer a solution.
Old 06-19-2018, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Brand
The Whipple air box is poorly designed. I haven’t even put the included gasket on the top of the air box because I don’t like how it is designed. I need to find or engineer a solution.
Let me know when you do...

I was thinking about trying to find a s&b or something like that and make it work.

Last edited by TX-Ripper; 06-19-2018 at 07:07 PM.


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