18+ 5.0 Are LTs worth it?
I've seen a lot of back and forth. Looking for input from those who have done it not those who have read a post the same as me lol. Are Long tubes worth it? I'm looking for mid to low 12s NA. I may spray it or put a blower on down the road. I have a 18 cc 4x4 with 3.55s. going ported 18 Mani,jlt,omega, and a true 3" dual set up.
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Originally Posted by Magma5.slo
(Post 7022492)
I've seen a lot of back and forth. Looking for input from those who have done it not those who have read a post the same as me lol. Are Long tubes worth it? I'm looking for mid to low 12s NA. I may spray it or put a blower on down the road. I have a 18 cc 4x4 with 3.55s. going ported 18 Mani,jlt,omega, and a true 3" dual set up.
Whichever route you decide to go, there's some very nice easy aftermarket options for dual 3". If you want cast manifolds, SPD offers a downpipe system that adapts to any Ecoboost Raptor or HO 3.5 exhaust system. Makes it plug and play. For headers there's StainlessWorks and their true dual system. Both are great options and you can get to your goal with both |
Originally Posted by Dapepper9
(Post 7022527)
You can hit that goal without spray and without longtubes. Worth is debatable. They cost a lot and don't quite offer the same increase that an intake manifold or a tune does. But, as power without them goes up, they benefit more and more. Another thing to take into consideration is noise. Header tubes you hear a lot more of the internal workings of the engine. People who have never had headers often think they have a flange leak or valvetrain issue but it's just the resonance that's no longer being canceled out by the cast iron manifolds.
Whichever route you decide to go, there's some very nice easy aftermarket options for dual 3". If you want cast manifolds, SPD offers a downpipe system that adapts to any Ecoboost Raptor or HO 3.5 exhaust system. Makes it plug and play. For headers there's StainlessWorks and their true dual system. Both are great options and you can get to your goal with both |
Originally Posted by Magma5.slo
(Post 7022587)
Any ideas of the gains on the SPD's vs Lt? The spd are pretty pricey if I was to do LTs it would be the 2m only because I can weld and fab so if they need tweaked I can do it though it seems Lt install is basically a 2 day job lol
install of longtubes is....fun lol. Hard to say length of job but I had about 8hrs of actual wrenching in mine. Plus about 8hrs of thinking about how I wanted to do it, finding the right tool, and just all that crap that goes with any job. Plus LTH’s y pipe requires you to drop the trans crossmember and that just adds time and complexity |
Originally Posted by Dapepper9
(Post 7022623)
I’m not sure tbh. The 2m stuff is a Chinese knockoff of SW and from everything I’ve seen it’s a really good copy and fits great.
install of longtubes is....fun lol. Hard to say length of job but I had about 8hrs of actual wrenching in mine. Plus about 8hrs of thinking about how I wanted to do it, finding the right tool, and just all that crap that goes with any job. Plus LTH’s y pipe requires you to drop the trans crossmember and that just adds time and complexity |
For me the long tubes were worth it as I just love the sound of them and after having them on my 2011, I just had to have them on my 18. Not sure on what difference it actually makes on the track or dyno as I haven't done any of that. Butt dyno feels better especially on the top end. I had it tuned before and after the headers with same tuner. Install is what it is. Headers on any late model vehicle is pita. I will say I had an easier time on my 2011 than I did on my 18 though. Had to take a bit more off to get the headers in than I had to do on my 2011. I used new oem gaskets and replaced what studs I could get out(there were some studs that requiered a/c compressor and engine mount to come off and didn't want to do that)with new oem studs and nuts. I used a ford performance kit from cj pony parts for the mustangs that had all the oem studs, nuts, and gaskets as it was about 50 dollars and was cheaper than ordering it all individually. Overall it took me about 8 hours in a small 2 car garage on jack stands.
I am using Stainless Works LT's and built my own 3" stainless h pipe and 3" duals dumped past the rear axle. With the Borla Xr1's it is stupid loud as I figured it would be. Gonna put some resonators in and likely build a 1/4 wave resonator to help with drone. Originally had the y pipe setup and was not happy with it. |
Originally Posted by 4.6Intruder
(Post 7022861)
For me the long tubes were worth it as I just love the sound of them and after having them on my 2011, I just had to have them on my 18. Not sure on what difference it actually makes on the track or dyno as I haven't done any of that. Butt dyno feels better especially on the top end. I had it tuned before and after the headers with same tuner. Install is what it is. Headers on any late model vehicle is pita. I will say I had an easier time on my 2011 than I did on my 18 though. Had to take a bit more off to get the headers in than I had to do on my 2011. I used new oem gaskets and replaced what studs I could get out(there were some studs that requiered a/c compressor and engine mount to come off and didn't want to do that)with new oem studs and nuts. I used a ford performance kit from cj pony parts for the mustangs that had all the oem studs, nuts, and gaskets as it was about 50 dollars and was cheaper than ordering it all individually. Overall it took me about 8 hours in a small 2 car garage on jack stands.
I am using Stainless Works LT's and built my own 3" stainless h pipe and 3" duals dumped past the rear axle. With the Borla Xr1's it is stupid loud as I figured it would be. Gonna put some resonators in and likely build a 1/4 wave resonator to help with drone. Originally had the y pipe setup and was not happy with it. |
IMHO, if you are going to spend the cash on LT's, and are going through the
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Originally Posted by bad packet
(Post 7024938)
IMHO, if you are going to spend the cash on LT's, and are going through the
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Originally Posted by Magma5.slo
(Post 7024534)
Any videos of it? I started thing the true dual 3" with the x may be a little raspy and may got h? The difference in power is pretty negligible I would think
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