chuckleguts

Dumb question here. The OP is referring to "unplugging the phaser solenoids". Is this the same thing as the VCT solenoids?

ElCarnicero

Yes, Poor choice of wording on my part.

chuckleguts

ElCarnicero
Did you buy new solenoids yet? I'm in Calgary as well and I'd be curious as to where you got them and for how much. My truck appears to have the same issue. It runs great but the noise just bothers me.

ElCarnicero

I have not bought anything yet. I'm still collecting money for it. I'm planning getting most of my stuff off of Rockauto.com as most other places don't ship to canada and the ford dealership OEM stuff is outrageously overpriced.

From what I understand it is best to buy Ford OEM Solenoids, so I will be getting those. Unless someone has a different, better option.

I'm looking at a Cloyes Timing Kit, I've heard some positive reviews about their product. And I'll likely go with the Phasers from Standard Motor Products. (I have been strongly advised against Dorman brand anything) Standard Motor Products Phasers are about $150 each. I checked the Ford dealer--- $500+ Per phaser, and 1400$ for the entire timing kit system, (that includes the 2 phasers, solenoids etc.)

Most likely do the oil pump while I'm in there so I'll go with a Melling M360 for that.

How Familiar and confident are you in the procedure? Personally I'll be following hours of youtube video and the step by step manual provided by a mechanic friend. I'm just concerned with what to do if I get to a spot that I am not familiar with. As I'm not overly mechanically incline (but able to follow directions) and clearly it would really blow goats to make a serious mistake. That is where the self doubt creeps in.

chuckleguts

I only plan to change the VCT solenoids, so hopefully that is fairly easy.

Eric Kleven

Depends on the year of your truck. I think it was the 04-06 versions that had the large holes in the valve covers, solenoids can be changed without pulling the valve covers. 07-10 had smaller holes, just snug of the solenoid bodies, have to pull valve covers.

ElCarnicero

Sadly I have an 07. I looked at just doing the solenoids but saw that I'd have to pull the covers.
Might aswell do it all to cover my bases.

chuckleguts

Mine is a 2010 so covers come off as well. Interestingly, I called a local Ford dealership and the parts guy said I did not have to replace the cover gaskets. Since they are a rubber rope, they can be reused. Solenoids there were $114 each CDN and I can get them from Tasca for $135 USD for the pair including shipping.

ElCarnicero

Very interesting. I'm guessing I can't reuse my gaskets.

About the solenoids. Anyone know if its the solenoids that usually go or is it the solenoid actuator that goes? Should I replace both or just the Solenoids themselves

F150Torqued

Would be nice if it were that simple @ElCarnicero. Not sure of your designations "solenoid" or "solenoid actuator" (Solenoid or Phaser), but nevertheless it would be incorrect to say either one 'usually goes'. Both are dependent on oil flow and the ability to 'control' oil flow - so if there is a problem with oil flow,,,, well the rest doesn't matter.


There are a s@#$%load of other elements that get involved. In most cases solenoids and phasers are about the last things suspected in a long series of events / symptoms (often the result of lax or overlooked maintenance). Or a combination of that and normal wear and tear. First the steel chains normally wear (stretch) until the tensioners can no longer remove all the slack (Anywhere from 125k to 225k miles depending on use/maintenance). Or tensioner seals harden from heat, leak tensioner pressure and blow out providing insufficient chain tensioning. Either of those result in a little chain rattle or slap on startup (usually ignored). Then misfires come along from running plugs way too long (100K). Then misfires develop (the detrimental effect of that 'often' ignored), and results in the chains slapping the hell out of the plastic guides - breaking them into little pieces. The little pieces fall into the pan and get sucked up into the oil pickup screen - partially clogging it, and cause reduced oil supply and/or foaming of the oil and reduced pressure. Phasers start showing symptoms of clatter from insufficient oil pressure to move them to base / locking position at idle or position them properly when retard is called for. This compounds the effect of any worn or borderline solenoids ability to route the (already somewhat) limited oil supply and for the phasers ot effectively position the cams.

So everybody tends to 'convict' the phasers and solenoids.


Generally speaking, by the time these symptoms develop - if it has a good number of miles on it and given the complexity of the job - a person should attack all components involved in making the variable valve system function properly.