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Idiocy......why I hate buying used vehicles....please help

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Old 02-09-2012, 01:28 PM
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Default Idiocy......why I hate buying used vehicles....please help

So I decided to tackle a few things with my truck today, namely the power locks.
Picked up a 30 amp breaker, for $5. Figured I'd start there. Didnt work so I took the door panel off and heres what I found.
First of all the motor for the locks is in the worste possible place, but there is power going to it. I can feel it buzz when I hit the button.
But heres the problem


For some reason they spread the vent open to cut the bar for the pwr lock.....why the F*ck would somebody do this? How do I fix it?










Next problem......There are supposed to be 6x9's here arent there?

No wires Nothing.....WHYYYYYYYY!!!!!!!!
Instead there is this


I take it the had an amp in the back, amping something up front? So when I hooked up my deck, I hooked into the wires that should run these speakers, so where is the power going?

Lastly....WTF is this sh*t

That weird fuse thing and wire with the circle connector that was shoved into the fuse box


Please share some insight, I'm fighting with myself right now not to drive across the bridge and punch that a** I bought it from in the face. F*ck people are stupid
Old 02-09-2012, 02:41 PM
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Why does it take soooooo long to get a response on this site about anything other than off topic.
Please people I am running out of light and am not good with this electrical garbage.
Old 02-09-2012, 03:38 PM
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I wish I could help. It is IMO very hard to diagnose electrical stuff over the internet. especially when someone has done a botch homemade job like that. My advice is get the multimeter and a whole lot of patience to figure it out. Or just start from scratch and rewire it yourself.
Old 02-09-2012, 03:47 PM
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everything else seems to work fine. I figure a stereo guy can prob access what those wires r. Guess I'll just have to b patient and trace all these extra wires and cut them out.
I just dont understand where the factory 6x9 wires are leading to. Also wondering how to get the motor for the pwr locks out, in a bad spot. I think its held by a rivet which imo is retarded. I figure the motors should still push the cut rods, but they are just buzzing
Old 02-09-2012, 07:29 PM
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I've bought plenty of used vehicles and always made out real well. The key is to vet them real well which usually means LOTS of legwork. I might have to look at 20, 30 maybe 40 vehicles before finding a keeper. I'm very picky. But consequently I usually don't end up with buyers remorse

On the wiring those in the picture don't appear to factory wires. At this point you might as well just pull new ones of your own if some has dorked up the existing harness. At least you will know what your got and save a lot of frustration. Wiring for stereos is pretty simple and straight forward.
Old 02-10-2012, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Mariner
I've bought plenty of used vehicles and always made out real well. The key is to vet them real well which usually means LOTS of legwork. I might have to look at 20, 30 maybe 40 vehicles before finding a keeper. I'm very picky. But consequently I usually don't end up with buyers remorse

On the wiring those in the picture don't appear to factory wires. At this point you might as well just pull new ones of your own if some has dorked up the existing harness. At least you will know what your got and save a lot of frustration. Wiring for stereos is pretty simple and straight forward.
I usually have decent luck with vehicles and most old vehicles that you buy are bound to have a few things wrong with them that you know will need fixing.
If someone says" The power door locks stopped working" well that's not really a big deal. It can normally only be one of a few things causing the problem. But when you start digging around and start finding the hidden stuff like the above mentioned cutting of the rods, this is what really pisses me of.
The speakers and wiring thing is also not a big deal, just time consuming and in the middle of the winter not that much fun. I know there is extra sh*t in there for an amp, which is all bundled up with the factory stuff.

I really hate that I have to pop the rivet out just to remove the actuator, then somehow try to get a new rod in there.

I have a good friend that has a 95 f150 for a plow truck and we might go half on a parts truck.
Old 02-10-2012, 09:04 AM
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From what I can see from the pictures the truck had an after market alarm/security system most propably installed by a journyman butcher and tied into the doorlocks and god knows what else
Old 02-10-2012, 09:15 AM
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i ran into the same crap when i bought a ramcharger a year ago. there were wires and fuses and just random stuff everywhere. there was a switch just for the tail lights. then one for the headlights, and half my ignition cylinder wiring tuned out to be junk. it turned out to be a time consuming mess, but it was all pretty easy in the end. the easiest way i can say is to trace it all as far back as you can and try to identify what it is. if you cant, cut it out of what ever its spliced into and put it all back as close to stock as you can. it'll give you a good starting point to go from. and i'd probably just drilll that rivet out and use a small bolt to replace it with. then you wouldnt have to worry about it working loose in the coming years lol
Old 02-10-2012, 03:01 PM
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thats what I was thinkin, the bolt thing. But when I push the switch for the pw lock the actuator just buzzes slightly. Remember the rod is cut. Does it seem like the acc is shot as well?
Old 02-10-2012, 03:47 PM
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It is apparent the Monks of the Order of the Golden Hammer have worked on this truck. forunately all of the parts are avialable from LMC trucks so you can put things to right.


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