Permatex RTV on rear differential
Instructions say to "Finger tighten bolts until material begins to squeeze out around flange. Allow to dry for one hour then retighten 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Silicone dries in 1 hour, and fully cures in 24 hours. Allow more time in cold or very dry conditions." Torque specs on the rear diff bolts are 33 ft/lbs. When do I torque the bolts back down? I'll obviously refill after the RTV has cured, but a bit confused on when I can button everything up back to torque specs. FordTechMakuloco has a video on doing this and he pretty much torques everything down right away.
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Originally Posted by BigTerp
(Post 6323145)
Instructions say to "Finger tighten bolts until material begins to squeeze out around flange. Allow to dry for one hour then retighten 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Silicone dries in 1 hour, and fully cures in 24 hours. Allow more time in cold or very dry conditions." Torque specs on the rear diff bolts are 33 ft/lbs. When do I torque the bolts back down? I'll obviously refill after the RTV has cured, but a bit confused on when I can button everything up back to torque specs. FordTechMakuloco has a video on doing this and he pretty much torques everything down right away.
https://youtu.be/-LIm-YZ4DUI . |
If you use RightStuff, you can torque in 1hr and keep the film layer.
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If you use a gasket, you can torque it once and move on.
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Originally Posted by raski
(Post 6323549)
If you use a gasket, you can torque it once and move on.
With RTV, I torque down after 1 hour (lower than the specs, 28 lbs-ft) |
Thanks for the responses. No gasket on hand, and I'm tackling this tomorrow morning. Already have the Permatex RTV, so that's what I'll be using. Should be a pretty straight forward job without much drama, I hope!!
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I've always used Ultra Black and torqued to full value immediately. Let it sit undisturbed for a few hours (longer if cold) and refill the oil. I've probably done 20 or so this way and never had a leak. I am very interested in seeing the newer rubber over steel gaskets. It would be nice to have a good gasket option (paper gaskets are useless here) and avoid the silicone completely.
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Originally Posted by PerryB
(Post 6323561)
I've always used Ultra Black and torqued to full value immediately. Let it sit undisturbed for a few hours (longer if cold) and refill the oil. I've probably done 20 or so this way and never had a leak. I am very interested in seeing the newer rubber over steel gaskets. It would be nice to have a good gasket option (paper gaskets are useless here) and avoid the silicone completely.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...2a38d5d44.jpeg |
The ratio has nothing to do with it - it's the axle model (ring gear size).
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Got everything done with no drama. Removed the cover, cleaned up inside the differential to get as much of the old gear oil out as possible. Then used a wire wheel to clean up both the housing and cover surfaces. Sealed back up easily with the Permatex RTV. I tightened down until I got some "squish" out of the RTV. Then torqued down after an hour. Refilled 24 hours later with Valvoline full synthetic 75W-140 and 4 ounces of Motorcraft friction modifier. No leaks so far.
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