Topic Sponsor
Maintenance Shop Keep your Ford F150 truck running strong. Discuss all things maintenance here.

P0174

 
Old 03-03-2014, 07:56 PM
  #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 4
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default P0174

I been reading different threads and my head is spinning for all the ideas. My 2004 5.4 started running rough produced 3-4 codes and I took to a dealership. They gave me a list of services to do. Change the plugs, bank 2 O2 sensor change, and coil 2 was bad. They also said my phasers, lifters, chain tensioners and VCT solonoids need changed. I changed the coils and plugs (broke 4!) and O2 sensor. I am now left a truck that runs a little rough at idle and sometimes gives me a P174 code (too lean). The dealership wants $3500 to due the remainder of the work. it seems like a lot of money for and 10 year truck with 110k miles. Is there anything else I can do? I read the thread on changing the phasers and lifters, I'm a little nervous about tearing into my motor. Any help would be appreciated.


Thanks
JCook22 is offline  
Old 03-04-2014, 10:01 AM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Marc D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Fullerton, CA
Posts: 2,106
Received 231 Likes on 228 Posts
Default

Lean codes almost always come from vacuum leaks or EGR valve failure. This usually presents itself as a rough idle. Start with a very detailed check of all the hoses. If they leave black on your hands, change them. If they are cracked or very hard, change them. Be aware some of the lines run up and under the intake manifold and a re a bi#*#h to get to. BTW I would never pay any dealer $3500 for anything. If you can't do it try a small shop.
Marc D is offline  
Old 03-04-2014, 04:34 PM
  #3  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 4
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

We gone through the vacuum lines a couple different times even spraying around them to see if the engine would rev. Also checked the MAF. Is there an easy way to check the EGR valve? I saw there is both a valve and a solenoid and both cost about $100. I'd could just change them both, but if it's not needed I don't want to do that. I agree with your dealership comment as well. Looking at trying to find a shop also.


Thanks for the help
JCook22 is offline  
Old 03-04-2014, 04:45 PM
  #4  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 4
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Some one also posted that not all 5.4 have an EGR valve. Where do I look?
JCook22 is offline  
Old 03-05-2014, 09:05 AM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
Marc D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Fullerton, CA
Posts: 2,106
Received 231 Likes on 228 Posts
Default

Locate the PCV valve on the passengers side valve cover. Follow the 3/8 vac hose toward the front of the motor. It will connect with the EGR pressure sensor the continue forward to the left center if the intake manifold and end at the EGR valve. The part is a 2 1/2" round solenoid mounted on the intake manifold. Testing can sometimes be done in place using a short piece of hose and applying vacuum to it, watching for movement in the diaphragm although removal and manual inspection is the best way. Don't forget to trave hard plastic lines that run under the manifold. The 90's on the ends are often damaged. BTW if the pressure sensor is aluminum, it's the factory one and usually is bad. If it's black it's been replaced. Good luck.
Marc D is offline  
The following users liked this post:
JCook22 (03-05-2014)
Old 03-08-2014, 08:50 AM
  #6  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 4
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Quick update - cracked head on coil #2 Either fix/replace head 2400 or different engine 4400. Think about my options at this point.
JCook22 is offline  
Old 03-08-2014, 09:01 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
Marc D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Fullerton, CA
Posts: 2,106
Received 231 Likes on 228 Posts
Default

The head work price seems high to me but then I'm a tight wad (retired) and do all of my own work. The $4400 for a complete rebuilt motor is about right. If you are unable to do the work yourself, I would shop around for a private shop for pricing. You might even consider a wrecking yard for a motor swap. Your truck is only 10 years old so a new motor would be reasonable. Good luck
Marc D is offline  
 


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: P0174


Contact Us - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: