wheelspinner

The "sewing machine oil" is not a concept..........it is merely my opinion. My opinion should not be construed as anything technical or sophisticated. Especially in the context as you have pointed out with all those abbreviations. I was simply relating to my experience and personal use in my own car and truck.
In my family is also another Crownvic that was purchased on the same day at the same dealership. This other Crownvic with the same 4.6 V8 "requiring" 5W/20 oil has 223 thousand miles without an engine problem. This car has been running 5W/30 for almost 9 years. The small V6 Rangers I refereed to in my previous post as well as the small 4 cylinder Chevys are enough evidence to me that a little more "vis" is not bad.
We can debate this till we loose the interest of any readers other than just us two but the fact remains that 5W/30, 10W/30 out sells the 5W20 and 0w/20 at most all parts stores including Wally-world, proving once and for all that people will do what they think is best in a free market.
An entire fleet of small engine pickup trucks and my own vehicle is all I need

rraiderr

There is no risk to running 20W oil in a vehicle it is specified for.


Plenty of data out there on 20W oil.

wheelspinner

You sir are absolutely right............no risk at all. If it is what you choose to run. Likewise there is no risk running a 5W/30 or a 10W/30 as proven beyond a doubt through my employer with a fleet of small engine V6 and 4 cylinder engines with 10W40.
That was all I was saying........no risk at all in running the heavier oil......300K miles proves that.
That is what people have been led to believe.....running heavier oil will HARM your engine.......that is not true.

ForcedInductionX2+

My 2011 F150 Ecoboost recommends 5w 30 Motorcraft Synthetic Blend. I believe on the oil fill cap it will specify the oil that Ford recomends.

Phyer Phyter

I run full synthetic 10W30 in my 2011 5.0 L. I have a customers using full synthetic 5W40 in everything. Pick ups to HD oilfield trucks. The main driver going to light weight oils is the CAFE rules compelling mfgr's to reduce fuel consumption. You can expect about 2% avg savings to 4% savings in reduced fuel consumption. In a single vehicle you will never notice it. On a fleet of 50 to hundreds the anual savings can be substantial. How ever individual driving habits and operating conditions can negate that all together. To say that a 20 wt oil disperses heat better than a 30 wt or 40wt might be true but that is not whats driving the push to lighter oils. Thats saying that now a 30 wt oil cant cut it and have to go to lighter oil to prevent engine damage? Ummmmm NOOOO.

Blackpony

I run amsoil 5w-30 in all my vehicles. I have heard guys running 0w-20, damn that seems thin to me might as well just put wd-40 in there... I build engines at work all the time and have seen first hand what happens when that oil film gets broken and there is metal on metal contact.

Cowpie

Yeah, the thicker is better crowd also populates the BITOG oil forum from time to time, even though there are many professional petroleum folks on there that have refuted the notion. There are myriads of posts that have put the higher viscosity is best notion to rest. One is always free to run the ideas of needing a 30w or even a 40w over there and that a 20w just won't cut it. Let me know so I can see the show. Better wear your cup though, they can sometime play hard ball. But then there are some profession tribologists and such over there.

wheelspinner

hey.....what is a "tribologist" and what does he or she know about oil ???? I am not someone with a four syllable title but I know oil. I prefer heavier vis for more scuff protection.
I'm sure your 'tribologist" will tell you all about "scuff" in an engine. Just ask them.

Cowpie

That is why there are things like dictionaries and search tools on the internet. Find out for yourself.

tanked_darren

I would go with owners manual, but we use 10 40w in everything at work and nothing has failed yet.