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Oil weight does matter 5w is the weight and the 20,30,40 is the thermal protection just a little info and also each engine is different some will do better on different oil I have worked for gm and Toyota and ford and I have seen that many time
Good way to smoke a 6k$ engine.... It is also variable valve timing on all four cranks. Also being overhead cam... I would suggest you read your owners manual. The vvt runs off oil pressure and duh changing the viscosity will afecct performance....also Ford hasn't used 5w30 in its overhead cam v8 since 2002.. there is a tsb on that
"4 cams" 2 intake and 2 exhaust. There are 2 sets of gears on the crank which connect to the cam phaser (vct actuators) via timing chains.
When the VCT solenoid is energized, engine oil is allowed to flow to the VCT actuator assembly which advances or retards the camshaft timing. One half of the VCT actuator is coupled to the camshaft and the other half is connected to the timing chain. Oil chambers between the 2 halves couple the camshaft to the timing chain. When the flow of oil is shifted from one side of the chamber to the other, the differential change in oil pressure forces the camshaft to rotate in either an advance or retard position depending on the oil flow. Source: alldatadiy.com
Background:
I purchased my '13 fx4 5.0 with 27 miles on it. After break in oil change I swapped to Royal purple full synthetic 5w20 which has a 15,000/ year life span. Using a little over 7 qts of Royal purple and a quart of Lucas full synthetic oil treatment with k&n oil filter, I kept the oil changed every 8,000 miles. Then at 20k miles or so I added an intake, deleted resonator, changed oem muffler to spintech muffler, and a sct tuner with custom evo/ perf/ and race programs from 5star tunning. It turned my 5.0 into a beast rolling 35" atturo m/t, although it stayed in Eco mode mostly, it would spin the 35s over in race mode with ease.
That bring said My problems started after a long trip to Delaware from Louisiana for work. I received a "P0011" trouble code with only 90k miles.
Engine was sluggish and if I were to come to a stop the motor would shutter below 300rpms causing engine to stall. So i Set the programmer to stock and cleared the code. I replaced the cam sensor and still didn't fix the stutter and developed a loud knocking noise (sounded like it was about to fall apart). I parked the truck, changed oil, and did some research. I purchased a vct solenoid and was about to install myself. Scratched my head for about 10 mins wondering if I wanted to go that route or just pay someone who is trained and can warranty the work. So I went to my local dealer ship and talked with mechanics about bringing their scan tool to diagnose the problem. Scan tool showed Vcts' were working just fine,so the next thing was the cam phasers. Mechanic stated that the Lucas must have gummed up the oil journals within the phasers resulting in destablization in oil pressure on r/h cams causing the timing issue. After Replacing all 4 phaser was over $1000 in parts/ supplies and $600 for labor i had a new timing set. I Flushed radiator since it had to be drained anyway and changed oil again w/o Lucas. Upon start up, tick/knock was still there but tick went away within seconds. But now I can hear the knock very clearly So i called service manager to schedule for a tear down and investigate the problem and fix it. im taking it to the dealership tmrw In which i purchased my truck.
It seems as though there should be a quality check on block, crank, pistons, etc....or a bulletin posted for a recall with all the problems we are having. I believe If i still used motorcraft the problem would have come sooner. I pray that it's a quality issue and will get a new motor for free.
My 2008 Ford Focus called for 5-20w, I bought it with 6k miles on it. I have used 10-30 for the last 90k miles, (from day one, always change oil on new car, like kissing new girlfriend) no problems, does not burn a drop of oil at 5 k changes. Ford sells engines, don't trust them, but..............
My 2013 F150 5.0 says it uses oil to cool the bottom of the pistons,, I hate the high tech crap, but I use 5-20w in it. Viscosity and spray nozzle makes a difference.
Having said that, my 2002 Explorer, 4.0, 190K miles , 15-40w since 100k miles., still does not burn oil. Yes, I'm a FORD guy, thats why I can cuss the stupid FORD engineers. PS, I live in the south, gods country, never gets really cold.
I and my employees work my trucks and cars hard so i likenthe extra protection in extreme heat the 5w30 offers.
Define "extreme heat" in B.C. please.
Down here in the Phoenix metro area we won't see B.C. highs for another couple of months minimum. In the higher elevations yes but not in the low deserts. I am still running 5W-20 but then again I also change every 3K miles. I'm extremely old school in that respect.
Oil weight does matter 5w is the weight and the 20,30,40 is the thermal protection just a little info and also each engine is different some will do better on different oil I have worked for gm and Toyota and ford and I have seen that many time
5w or any xw- is the low temperature/cold flow viscosity properties of oil. Lower weights hit the max viscosity at lower temperatures. It's measured with a pumping test at very low temperatures, sub-zero. Most Ford vehicles I've seen put the minimum temperature of a 10w-xx oil at about -18F. A 5w-xx oil should be good down to about -25f. (which makes me laugh when California/Desert guys wonder if they should switch to a 0w-xx oil for start-up protection...)
the xw-20/30/40 is the oil's Kinematic viscosity at 212F/100C. Higher weights are thicker at that temperature.
Why would you add oil additives? lucas oil additive is generally just a very heavy weight category II oil. It thickens the oil and reduces the add pack of the rest of the oil (royal purple is not particularly good anyway). Educate yourself:
"4 cams" 2 intake and 2 exhaust. There are 2 sets of gears on the crank which connect to the cam phaser (vct actuators) via timing chains.
When the VCT solenoid is energized, engine oil is allowed to flow to the VCT actuator assembly which advances or retards the camshaft timing. One half of the VCT actuator is coupled to the camshaft and the other half is connected to the timing chain. Oil chambers between the 2 halves couple the camshaft to the timing chain. When the flow of oil is shifted from one side of the chamber to the other, the differential change in oil pressure forces the camshaft to rotate in either an advance or retard position depending on the oil flow. Source: alldatadiy.com
Background:
I purchased my '13 fx4 5.0 with 27 miles on it. After break in oil change I swapped to Royal purple full synthetic 5w20 which has a 15,000/ year life span. Using a little over 7 qts of Royal purple and a quart of Lucas full synthetic oil treatment with k&n oil filter, I kept the oil changed every 8,000 miles. Then at 20k miles or so I added an intake, deleted resonator, changed oem muffler to spintech muffler, and a sct tuner with custom evo/ perf/ and race programs from 5star tunning. It turned my 5.0 into a beast rolling 35" atturo m/t, although it stayed in Eco mode mostly, it would spin the 35s over in race mode with ease.
That bring said My problems started after a long trip to Delaware from Louisiana for work. I received a "P0011" trouble code with only 90k miles.
Engine was sluggish and if I were to come to a stop the motor would shutter below 300rpms causing engine to stall. So i Set the programmer to stock and cleared the code. I replaced the cam sensor and still didn't fix the stutter and developed a loud knocking noise (sounded like it was about to fall apart). I parked the truck, changed oil, and did some research. I purchased a vct solenoid and was about to install myself. Scratched my head for about 10 mins wondering if I wanted to go that route or just pay someone who is trained and can warranty the work. So I went to my local dealer ship and talked with mechanics about bringing their scan tool to diagnose the problem. Scan tool showed Vcts' were working just fine,so the next thing was the cam phasers. Mechanic stated that the Lucas must have gummed up the oil journals within the phasers resulting in destablization in oil pressure on r/h cams causing the timing issue. After Replacing all 4 phaser was over $1000 in parts/ supplies and $600 for labor i had a new timing set. I Flushed radiator since it had to be drained anyway and changed oil again w/o Lucas. Upon start up, tick/knock was still there but tick went away within seconds. But now I can hear the knock very clearly So i called service manager to schedule for a tear down and investigate the problem and fix it. im taking it to the dealership tmrw In which i purchased my truck.
It seems as though there should be a quality check on block, crank, pistons, etc....or a bulletin posted for a recall with all the problems we are having. I believe If i still used motorcraft the problem would have come sooner. I pray that it's a quality issue and will get a new motor for free.
Fun fact I work for imperial and motocraft Is acutulley just a rebrand for Mobil product . 530 motocraft is 530 super 1000 mobil same as 520 Moto craft is 520 1000 mobil . I deliver bulk and packaged oil to dealerships
Good way to smoke a 6k$ engine.... It is also variable valve timing on all four cranks. Also being overhead cam... I would suggest you read your owners manual. The vvt runs off oil pressure and duh changing the viscosity will afecct performance....also Ford hasn't used 5w30 in its overhead cam v8 since 2002.. there is a tsb on that
My 5.0 only has the one crankshaft! You have one for each wheel?
I tried running Mobil 1 EP 5w-30 this week in my 2013 F150 with 5.0, but i gotta tell you that I am completely disappointed. I read up for weeks trying to find info on benefits and/or if its compatible. Basically this is the only vehicle we have in the family that doesn't use 5w-30 and my life would have been so much easier with all the extra 5w-30 laying around.
The engine ran much more sluggish, I started hearing slight knocking on grades, and the shift points with engine RPM were slightly different. I could not believe that it made that much of a difference but hopefully someone can use my experience to better know what can happen.
May not be everyones experience with using a 30, but my truck did not like it at all.
On the positive, it gave me a chance to try the Castrol GTX 5w-20 FULL SYNTHETIC and also to use my 5 day old oil and put in my sister's BMW hahaha.
06-29-2016, 07:39 PM
