FYI you can phone order parts from any local Ford dealership parts dept and
pay cash when you go to pick it up vs relying on Amazon. There is always a "retail" cost and a professional "jobber" cost.
They make a profit regardless... just more on retail. The likes of Amazon don't help your local business economy.

 

Just find out that all my 6 coil spark plugs connectors are damaged: all 6 with no red safety tab, and one of them with the latch tab broken hold in place just by friction.
Because my local dealership did this, it's impossible they missed the broken connectors OR, worst case they damaged them without telling me.

I phoned them up today expecting them to apologize and give me 6 new pigtail connectors. All I got was: I will let the technician know, yeah those old connector are often damaged.
Also they told me the only way to fix them is to cut wires and resolder/reconnect the new pigtail.
Ah for 6 connectors $118 ka-chin....

And of course I will unpin the old connectors and not cut any wires.

I would love to support my local business, but in my case it does not make sense.

 

That is very high. You can get a Motorcraft OEM water pump at Rock Auto for around a hundred dollars. I would change it out myself.

 

Where is this Y-Pipe located? My 2020 has lost some coolant, and it's running hotter than normal. I just had it in at the dealer and they weren't very helpful beyond topping up the coolant tank for me. I also have a intermittent cold start squeak (really bad when it's cold out) goes away after a min or two. I'm thinking I have a water pump problem. After being disappointed at the dealers ability to diagnose, I started poking around. I took tension off the serpentine belt, and noticed there's a slight wiggle in the water pump pulley, it's small though, maybe 1/16 or 1/32 of in/out play. Not sure if any play is normal or not. I didn't detect any play in the alternator pulley which leads me to believe I have a pump starting to go. I also think the thermostat is suspect, just running around town its going up to 212 and it will hit 226 under accel up a hill. This is under no load other than me and two kids.

 

Welcome to the club!

If your truck has >100Kmiles I would:
1) replace the pump
2) flush the antifreeze and put new stuff in.
3) organize a vacuum tool to check if there is a leak
4) check the pipes (upper/lower radiator and heater ones) to see if they are old and needs to be replaced.
5) replace both acc, AC belts and thermostat.

The Y pipe is the the number 9 below

 

I only have 43000 mi on it. It’s still under warranty, but dealer claims they couldn’t find anything. Basically said no codes and no sounds so monitor it. I don’t like that answer, I hate to let ford off the hook on the warranty but if I can save myself a bunch of trips complaining I might just suck it up and buy the parts and diy it. It’s a real pain to leave it with them, there’s basically only 2 days a week I can do that.

And if I wait and monitor it, I’m worried about the pump giving up while I’m in the middle of no where with the kids freaking out waiting for a tow.

 

I'm taking it back on Tues, if the play in the pump isn't enough for them to replace it under warranty, then I'll do it myself. I'm not waiting around for it to fail at the worst possible moment.

 

if you do end up doing it and accidentally pull the crossover pipe from thermostat housing to the back of the motor out it seemed to work for me to have the 2 metal...tabs... at roughly 11 & 5 and it would fall right in (i did it from the passenger side on a step stool with one hand behind the intake feeling for it, a little press down and it popped right in. Being a round pipe it doesnt make much sense but that was basically the only way it went in for me and tried a couple times out of curiosity

 

If I was able to replace my pump you surely and can do it!

If you are amazon prime I would but a decent coolant vacuum tool... mine had also an adapter to pressurize the cooling system (which do not require a powerful compressor as for creating the vacuum).... so you could then hunt for hissing or spill. After job done just return it.
Squeak noise in my planet is pointing to a belt... but surely there are more experienced people than me in this forum... don't take my words as bible statements. 😅

Only 43K mi on it? So strange....

 

I got the job done, I kind of had to spread it over a couple of days due to my weird *** work hours and my own stupidity.

ended up replace the thermostat, water pump, serpentine belt, and did a full coolant flush and fill with yellow coolant. In my haste to get it done quickly I was yanking on the pipe that connects to the throttle body from the intercooler and snapped of a vacuum tube pitot. I had to jbweld it on, but i just didn’t feel good about it so i had to buy the assembly and waste a ton of money. Still ended up cheaper than paying to have the work done, but haste makes waste and lesson learned yet again to not muscle things. Trucks running way cooler now so the tstat was definitely the culprit. As for the squeak, not sure if the belt or pump solved it. Rotating the old pump by hand felt pretty good so I’m leaning belt. Anyways job done, thanks for all the info!