Hello all. I’m new here and was hoping someone can help me out. 2013 F150 3.5 eco-boost 6R80 tranny. This past weekend I was on vacation in northern Maine doing some mild 4 wheeling along some mountain trails. Truck lurks forward, shuts down and wrench symbol shows up. Started it back up and switched to 2x4. Symbol goes away. Limped it back to my camp site 8 miles away and found my disconnect on the tranny cooler line was leaking fluid. Of course this happens late afternoon on a Saturday. Nothing open for miles. Next day I find a Napa auto and buy a 2’ piece of 1/2’ hose, clamps and tranny fluid and small pump to inject fluid. I cut out the busted line and replace with hose. Here’s my big problem. The freaking fill plug is unlike anything I’ve seen. The 19mm bold is larger at the bottom and purposely rounded over at the bottom. It just spins with no way to remove it! I have no idea how much fluid to add or how. My only hope was to add the fluid from the temporary cooler line I installed. I could only guess and added 1 quart with the pump I bought. Seemed to do the trick and got me back home 6 hours away. Has anyone ever seen the plug rounded over at the bottom and can not remove it? Any suggestions would be great. Praying I don’t need the dealership .I try to do everything myself because my local dealerships are notorious for ripping people off.

 

Welcome, do you have a picture? There is an outer cap then underneath that is the dipstick.

 

Not yet. I’m at work today but will post one tonight.

 

Yellow plastic dipstick extends up into the cap.
After unscrewing cap lift it up and off the dipstick.

Sometimes the dipstick gets stuck in the cap and withdraws at the same time. Keep lifting until clear of the entrance hole.

I find long handled needle nose pliers useful to lift the cap off, and pull the dipstick. Helps avoid hand contact with adjacent HOT catalytic converter.


YouTube how to video:



Recommend adjusting fluid level with a transfer pump, (and some kind of hook on the tubing), from below. Check manual-yours should use Motorcraft Mercon LV transmission fluid.

$7 at Harbor Frieght.

 

The bolt and stem below are locked together and just spin. I tried putting some vise grips on the lower stem but they appear to be attached.

 

I don't have a 2013 but got curious. Seems like checking AT fluid should be easy. But, apparently, Ford has made it difficult. Very strange.

 

My experience is with 2011 6R80 It’s cap looks like the picture with yellow dipstick above. This one is shaped differently. Obviously something is wrong. Might take it to a transmission shop. Let them know what happened and ask them to change fluid, filter, and replace the cap if necessary. Ask around for a shop your local hot rodders use.

 

I looked at 2011 and it says about the same thing. Maybe Ford means that it doesn't have the dip stick that everyone is used to. They want the dealer to check it. They added the part about the dealer between 2011 and 2013.

The more I learn about the newer Fords the less I want one. Too much dealer time involved.

 

6R80 fluid & filter changes are basically no different than any automatic I’ve owned since my first car, a 1960 T-Bird w/352 police interceptor motor.

6R80 dipstick is different is all. I use tools to keep my hands clear & safe from the catalytic converter. And adjust level while running and hot. Done it several times now.

I’m not lovin’ the new ones so much either, may have to change or get left behind though. (carburetors & distributors are ok, don’t miss them at all).

2011 XLT Screw 4x4 3.5l 3:55LS

 

I know this is an old thread, but wanted to bump it and see if anyone has had the issue I’m having. Wanted to do a fluid exchange on my 2017
with 6R80 yesterday and can’t break the fill bolt loose. Ford replaced the trans 14,000 miles ago with a Ford reman, and I haven’t touched it since. I’m sure I could break it loose with a little more leverage but just using a 19mm wrench I’m giving it all I’ve got and it feels like anything more and I might break something.

Does the trans going through heat cycles cause the bolt to feel stuck and I just need to give it more oomph, or should I trust my gut and leave it, maybe take it to a shop and let them handle it? For reference, the transmission was cold when I tried to remove the fill bolt.