Front Axle Pivot Bushing Issues
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Joined: Sep 2018
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From: Southeast Georgia
Front Axle Pivot Bushing Issues
On my 85 F150 XLT Lariat 4x4 I needed to replace my radius arm bushings so I decided to go ahead and replace the axle pivot bushings while I had it all taken apart. After finally getting the driver's side bushing removed I started having serious issues trying to get the new bushing in. I can practically push the new bushing into the hole about halfway by hand. At that point it stops, but when I go to press it in it always ends up crooked. Any suggestions?? I have tried the traditional socket and hammer approach, built an all thread contraption to press in the bushing, and even tried to use a ball joint press but all of them ended up with the same result. I can try to post some photos tomorrow when I have some time to get back under the truck.
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Joined: Jan 2018
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From: Memphis, TN, Earth, Milky Way
If you build the allthread contraption correctly, it can't pull the bushing in crooked. But you should try to return those bushings, and buy Energy black polyurethane. They're vastly superior in every way:
(phone app link)
(phone app link)
You can get them on Amazon, eBay, & https://www.energysuspensionparts.co...cri=8,1&filter . Do not buy red, or any other brand - they're not nearly as good.
(phone app link)
(phone app link)
You can get them on Amazon, eBay, & https://www.energysuspensionparts.co...cri=8,1&filter . Do not buy red, or any other brand - they're not nearly as good.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 15
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From: Southeast Georgia
I am going to put in an order for the Energy Suspension bushings (4.3133R) and give them a shot. The all thread contraption was built by cutting down a threaded rod to size, tack welding a nut to one end then using another nut and extremely thick washers from the local ag supply store to torque down on either side of the bushing. It almost seems like one side of the hole they are supposed to go into is smoother/larger than the other. I'm not sure but the OEM bushings outer shell is so fragile that any sort of force on the front lip simply bends it all out of shape.
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Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 11,256
Likes: 1,769
From: Memphis, TN, Earth, Milky Way
There is no advantage to starting a new thread related to this topic - it's better to keep it all here.
I don't think you want to buy a die that size - it would probably cost more than a new radius arm. Use a common triangle file to fix the thread. The end thread isn't critical since the nut won't even be on it when fully-installed.
(phone app link)
I was trying to get my Radius Arm free of the bracket by tapping it with a hammer while pulling on the front axle, and of course I hit the edge of the stud and messed up the first part of the threads. Has anyone used a die to simply re-thread this stud, or even know what the thread pitch is? Or would it just be a better practice to replace the radius arm instead of trying to re-thread the stud? I will have pictures up tomorrow but the threads, in my opinion look like they can be repaired.
(phone app link)
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 15
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From: Southeast Georgia
Thanks for the help, and sorry for the unnecessary thread. I am new to the whole forum thing. I will go by and try to get a triangle file today and get some pictures up this afternoon so you can see exactly what all I am talking about/the severity of it.
