Diy oil change
03-14-2010, 05:35 PM
#1
Diy oil change
Hi everyone, Today my dad needed to do an oil change (I did it) so I thought Id make a DIY since I really couldnt find a good one on the internet anywhere. I made an account just for this so I hope this gets sticky'ed for you guys.
(I did this with a broken elbow, if i can do it then you definitely can.)
You will need:
7 quarts of oil (We used motocraft)
Oil Filter we Used (Fram Extra guard PH2)
New Drain Plug/bolt (My dad refused to buy one)
Oil bucket
Funnel
Oil Filter wrench
Ratchet with a 5/8 inch socket on it
Ok so the first thing that you want to do is to remove the old oil filter. If you pop the hood and look below the engine you will be able to see it. I our case it was white. So, grab the oil filter wrench, the oil bucket and climb under the car right below the motor. Put the oil filter wrench on the oil filter and pull to the left. There is a tube next to it and a pulley right above so the space its cramped and might take a couple tries to get a good grip on it. It is very easy to undo so it shouldn't be a problem. Unscrew until you can turn it with you hand and then let the oil drain into the bucket. Immediatly turn the old oil filter straight up and then let it drain into the bucket. Our bucket had a grill/vent that let us lay the oil filter on.
Next you want to unscrew the drain plug. This is on the oil pan of the car, basically directly below the dash board of the car. this is behind the front wheels and before the transmission. The bolt is facing the backend of the car, its very easy to find. My dads had red wax? on it from jiffy lube. Grab your ratchet and 5/8 inch socket and unscrew the drain bolt. This was very hard to do. It was extremely tight and took both of us to do. You only barely have to turn it to make it loose but turning it that little bit is hard. Next unscrew it by hand and let the oil drain into the bucket. As the stream becomes small/thiner it may be affected by wind if you doing it outside.
As you can tell the wind was a bit of a problem.
When it completely drains re-screw the bolt back it , or use a new one. Don't for get to wipe of the oil sitting on the oil pan.
Then you need to put the new oil filter on. Make sure to cover the rubber in oil before putting it on. Climb back under the car and screw it in with you hand until its hand-tight. Do not over tighten.
After putting the drain bolt back in as well as the new oil filter you can add the new oil. Put the funnel into the oil hole in the engine compartment. Pour the oil in. You will use the whole 5.28 quart bottle, 1 1 quart bottle, and about 3/4's of the last 1 quart bottle.
Turn the car on let it idle for 30 seconds and check the dipstick.
(I did this with a broken elbow, if i can do it then you definitely can.)
You will need:
7 quarts of oil (We used motocraft)
Oil Filter we Used (Fram Extra guard PH2)
New Drain Plug/bolt (My dad refused to buy one)
Oil bucket
Funnel
Oil Filter wrench
Ratchet with a 5/8 inch socket on it
Ok so the first thing that you want to do is to remove the old oil filter. If you pop the hood and look below the engine you will be able to see it. I our case it was white. So, grab the oil filter wrench, the oil bucket and climb under the car right below the motor. Put the oil filter wrench on the oil filter and pull to the left. There is a tube next to it and a pulley right above so the space its cramped and might take a couple tries to get a good grip on it. It is very easy to undo so it shouldn't be a problem. Unscrew until you can turn it with you hand and then let the oil drain into the bucket. Immediatly turn the old oil filter straight up and then let it drain into the bucket. Our bucket had a grill/vent that let us lay the oil filter on.
Next you want to unscrew the drain plug. This is on the oil pan of the car, basically directly below the dash board of the car. this is behind the front wheels and before the transmission. The bolt is facing the backend of the car, its very easy to find. My dads had red wax? on it from jiffy lube. Grab your ratchet and 5/8 inch socket and unscrew the drain bolt. This was very hard to do. It was extremely tight and took both of us to do. You only barely have to turn it to make it loose but turning it that little bit is hard. Next unscrew it by hand and let the oil drain into the bucket. As the stream becomes small/thiner it may be affected by wind if you doing it outside.
As you can tell the wind was a bit of a problem.
When it completely drains re-screw the bolt back it , or use a new one. Don't for get to wipe of the oil sitting on the oil pan.
Then you need to put the new oil filter on. Make sure to cover the rubber in oil before putting it on. Climb back under the car and screw it in with you hand until its hand-tight. Do not over tighten.
After putting the drain bolt back in as well as the new oil filter you can add the new oil. Put the funnel into the oil hole in the engine compartment. Pour the oil in. You will use the whole 5.28 quart bottle, 1 1 quart bottle, and about 3/4's of the last 1 quart bottle.
Turn the car on let it idle for 30 seconds and check the dipstick.
Last edited by DIYOILCHANGE; 03-15-2010 at 04:46 PM.
The following users liked this post:
bhesse (02-17-2016)
03-14-2010, 06:08 PM
#3
We got all the stuff from autozone and they only carried K&N and Fram. Fram was the only one that worked of a 2009 f150 according to their book.
03-14-2010, 07:43 PM
#4
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Join Date: Feb 2010
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You provided an excellent example for this service. Just a question, I am thinking that even the Ford oil filter will allow a knock on startup. It takes a moment or so to fill the filter and create pressure to the engine. If the filter was engineered to screw on straight up you could fill the filter then carefully install it. This would lessen the knock on startup. Maybe? I am not sure but thats what I used to do when the filter position allowed it.
Awesome pictures and descriptions. Thanks for posting them.
Saddle Tramp
Awesome pictures and descriptions. Thanks for posting them.
Saddle Tramp
03-14-2010, 08:10 PM
#5
Senior Member
cool thread but you can save money by going to walmart and I never put Fram oil filters on anything. Even the walmart super tech filters are better. I buy two jugs and save the rest so I only buy one the next time.
03-14-2010, 08:25 PM
#6
Senior Member
+2 the fram filter i only use motorcraft!! and asfar as the knocking i always put some oil in the filter before i put the new one on i found it is eassiest to lay right under the truck and get both hands on the filter that way much eassier than messing with a filter wrench after the first oil change the next time you change the filter it should come off fairly easy or you can get the filter wrench that has a ratchet end on it with an extension but good write up man alot of people will prob find it helpfull
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03-14-2010, 09:21 PM
#9
You provided an excellent example for this service. Just a question, I am thinking that even the Ford oil filter will allow a knock on startup. It takes a moment or so to fill the filter and create pressure to the engine. If the filter was engineered to screw on straight up you could fill the filter then carefully install it. This would lessen the knock on startup. Maybe? I am not sure but thats what I used to do when the filter position allowed it.
Awesome pictures and descriptions. Thanks for posting them.
Saddle Tramp
Awesome pictures and descriptions. Thanks for posting them.
Saddle Tramp
03-14-2010, 09:48 PM
#10
Then you need to put the new oil filter on. Make sure to cover the rubber in oil before putting it on. Climb back under the car and screw it in with you hand. Then use the oil filter wrench tighten completely. Do not over tighten.