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Cranking But Not Starting

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Old Mar 13, 2025 | 11:48 AM
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Question Cranking But Not Starting

I have a 2010 F150 with the 5.4 V8. I parked at the gas station, went to fire it up and it would crank but wouldn't start so I towed it home. When I got home I tried to fire it up again but it wouldn't even turn over, I just heard rapid clicking and the gauge cluster would rattle back and forth. I checked the battery (which was good) and checked all leads for a short somewhere. I hooked up to a vehicle with a good battery like a jump start it and crossed the starter with a screwdriver to which the starter wouldn't engage. I replaced the starter and left the battery on a charger and it fired right up. Then I drove around to make sure it was good then parked it back at my house. Went to fire it up again and it will crank but not start again. My code reader says no codes and check engine light is not on.

I have checked all the usuals, no blown fuses or bad relays, the fuel pump driver module is not burned up or missing pins or wires and I made sure it had a good ground. I poked the schrader valve on the fuel rail to make sure fuel was making it there and I do have fuel at the rails. I've gotten it to fire up randomly once or twice so I checked the battery as it was running and it was 14.5volts, so that tells me the alternator is not bad if I'm right? It will consistently turn over but not start, until the battery eventually does die. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what is going on? I've watched hundreds of videos and read dozens of forums now and I've checked all the usual suspects. Possible injector problems? Is it starving for fuel, possible plugged fuel filter? But it has fuel at the rails.

It has spark plugs and coils with less than 500 miles on them, new oil, a new starter. My commute is very short, I live just outside of town so it takes me about 5 minutes to get to work, so I typically only drive about 20-30 minutes a day throughout the week.

Last edited by javancarroll; Mar 13, 2025 at 12:08 PM.
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Old Mar 14, 2025 | 05:41 AM
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I think we need to read the fuel pressure to determine if that might be the cause. Most auto parts stores rent fuel pressure gauges (I think they do) but at any rate we need to confirm fuel pressure is good. I do not know the spec for a 2010 but anything above 30 should allow you to start. I know on my 2007 spec is 40 psi.
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Old Mar 14, 2025 | 05:43 AM
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Have you done the Fuse 27 relocation? It is commonly melted on the female side inside the fuse block. The fuse will test good but it isn't making proper connection.
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Old Mar 14, 2025 | 03:12 PM
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How old are the plug wires, they can make a major difference?
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Old Mar 17, 2025 | 10:11 AM
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I have not done that, I was told by a shop that the fuel pump and the fuel pump control module were bad so I replaced those and the same issues are happening. I'll try the fuse relocation, I was avoiding that because my fuses were all good but if it's something I can't see then I'll give it a shot. Thanks!
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Old Mar 17, 2025 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by javancarroll
I have not done that, I was told by a shop that the fuel pump and the fuel pump control module were bad so I replaced those and the same issues are happening. I'll try the fuse relocation, I was avoiding that because my fuses were all good but if it's something I can't see then I'll give it a shot. Thanks!
it would be extemelu unlikely for a fuel pump and fpdm to simultaneously fail. regardless, a simple starting fluid test could have avoided this unnecessary parts cannoning.

i wouldn’t return to that shop/mechanic.
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Old Mar 17, 2025 | 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by javancarroll
I have a 2010 F150 with the 5.4 V8. I parked at the gas station, went to fire it up and it would crank but wouldn't start so I towed it home. When I got home I tried to fire it up again but it wouldn't even turn over, I just heard rapid clicking and the gauge cluster would rattle back and forth. I checked the battery (which was good) and checked all leads for a short somewhere. I hooked up to a vehicle with a good battery like a jump start it and crossed the starter with a screwdriver to which the starter wouldn't engage. I replaced the starter and left the battery on a charger and it fired right up. Then I drove around to make sure it was good then parked it back at my house. Went to fire it up again and it will crank but not start again. My code reader says no codes and check engine light is not on.

I have checked all the usuals, no blown fuses or bad relays, the fuel pump driver module is not burned up or missing pins or wires and I made sure it had a good ground. I poked the schrader valve on the fuel rail to make sure fuel was making it there and I do have fuel at the rails. I've gotten it to fire up randomly once or twice so I checked the battery as it was running and it was 14.5volts, so that tells me the alternator is not bad if I'm right? It will consistently turn over but not start, until the battery eventually does die. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what is going on? I've watched hundreds of videos and read dozens of forums now and I've checked all the usual suspects. Possible injector problems? Is it starving for fuel, possible plugged fuel filter? But it has fuel at the rails.

It has spark plugs and coils with less than 500 miles on them, new oil, a new starter. My commute is very short, I live just outside of town so it takes me about 5 minutes to get to work, so I typically only drive about 20-30 minutes a day throughout the week.
Hello i do have 2011 ford 150 ,5.0 engine same cranks but no start, i did change the fuel pump and fuel pump module and still not working.I did found that relay 8 when pulled out of the socket i measured the voltage on pin 3 reads 12v,and on pin 5 reads 2.5v ( this is the problem shouled be 0v),then if you pull out relay 1 out the voltage on pin 5 drops to 0v,this is telling me that the problem is in the circuit that relay 1 is controling i do think that maybe ground is causing all this
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Old Mar 18, 2025 | 04:12 AM
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Originally Posted by 23 F-150 XL
How old are the plug wires, they can make a major difference?
Coils sit on top of the plugs so there are not the old style ignition wires coming off the distributor.
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Old Mar 21, 2025 | 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by SHIFT_Lock
Have you done the Fuse 27 relocation? It is commonly melted on the female side inside the fuse block. The fuse will test good but it isn't making proper connection.
Okay, I’ve replaced the fuel pump, the fuel pump control module and relocated fuse 27 (fuel pump relay fuse) to a larger block. The truck will start when cold, I’ll drive it around until my temperatures are up then park it and shut it off, cycle the key again and it cranks without starting. If I leave it and let it cool down it fires right back up.

Last edited by javancarroll; Mar 22, 2025 at 12:13 AM.
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Old Mar 22, 2025 | 07:58 AM
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During one of its no start episodes give it a shot of starting fluid to see if it starts. If it starts, its probably a fuel issue. Measure fuel pressure.
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