Brake Problem 1989 Ford F250
07-18-2010, 07:04 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Brake Problem 1989 Ford F250
I Know this isn't an F150 but maybe Somone can help
I am trying to help a friend
the rear brakes lock on this 1889 F250 xlt w/5.8 cu in
I pulled the rear apart and found
RR - oil soaked (Gear oil) Wheel, cyl bad, shoes fell apart
LR - wheel cyl siezed
repl both Wheel cyl and shoes, springs turned drums and flushed fluid.
adjusted the shoes to full lock and then backed stars off until wheel turned with slight drag.
rear brakes locked again?
Fluid was black - I flushed the complete system.
I believe the owner had replaced front pads prior to problem.
note the vehicle didn't bleed easily. but did bleed.
I am not an expert on fords but have some knowledge
'
mostly Volvo, my ford experience is from my own vehicles. 1st time for brake problem like this any help would be good
Larry
I am trying to help a friend
the rear brakes lock on this 1889 F250 xlt w/5.8 cu in
I pulled the rear apart and found
RR - oil soaked (Gear oil) Wheel, cyl bad, shoes fell apart
LR - wheel cyl siezed
repl both Wheel cyl and shoes, springs turned drums and flushed fluid.
adjusted the shoes to full lock and then backed stars off until wheel turned with slight drag.
rear brakes locked again?
Fluid was black - I flushed the complete system.
I believe the owner had replaced front pads prior to problem.
note the vehicle didn't bleed easily. but did bleed.
I am not an expert on fords but have some knowledge
'
mostly Volvo, my ford experience is from my own vehicles. 1st time for brake problem like this any help would be good
Larry
Last edited by Larryw1; 07-18-2010 at 08:46 PM.
07-18-2010, 08:32 PM
#2
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I have an idea
update:
If I open the bleeder on the proportioning valve the brakes would free up.
so I repeated this about 4 times. every time the brakes locked up and every time they freed up with a slight and quick opening of the proportioning valve bleeder. I then tapped on the valve in the area if the big nut (forward end of the valve) but still on the side of the body. the body of prop valve. now the brakes don't lock up any more.
I recommended to my friend that he should replace all hydraulic pieces. Calipers, Master cyl, proportioning Valve. due to the fact that the wheel cyl were seized due to corrosion and that the brake fluid was black.
The rear brakes locking up was his original complaint. When I pulled the rear drums and found oil soaked shoes and that most of the linning had come off, so he was metal to metal on the drums. I also found the wheel cyl siezed. I assumed and recomended we start with the rear brake job. now that they are done I have discovered the above!
Any other thoughts let me know?
If I open the bleeder on the proportioning valve the brakes would free up.
so I repeated this about 4 times. every time the brakes locked up and every time they freed up with a slight and quick opening of the proportioning valve bleeder. I then tapped on the valve in the area if the big nut (forward end of the valve) but still on the side of the body. the body of prop valve. now the brakes don't lock up any more.
I recommended to my friend that he should replace all hydraulic pieces. Calipers, Master cyl, proportioning Valve. due to the fact that the wheel cyl were seized due to corrosion and that the brake fluid was black.
The rear brakes locking up was his original complaint. When I pulled the rear drums and found oil soaked shoes and that most of the linning had come off, so he was metal to metal on the drums. I also found the wheel cyl siezed. I assumed and recomended we start with the rear brake job. now that they are done I have discovered the above!
Any other thoughts let me know?
Last edited by Larryw1; 07-18-2010 at 08:43 PM.
08-08-2010, 11:20 AM
#3
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Oil leak
You mentioned that you found gear oil when you removed the drum. You didnt mention that you fixed that problem. I hope you did fix it and just did not mention it.
Anyway, if you did not fix it the oil will continue to leak. It is leaking from the axle seal at the end of the axle tube. I am assuming you have a C clip rear end like the 8.8 inch.
To replace the seal you have to remove the axle. In the C clip design this is a relatively easy task. I will not go into the details, but if you want them then reply or IM me.
Anyway, if you did not fix it the oil will continue to leak. It is leaking from the axle seal at the end of the axle tube. I am assuming you have a C clip rear end like the 8.8 inch.
To replace the seal you have to remove the axle. In the C clip design this is a relatively easy task. I will not go into the details, but if you want them then reply or IM me.
08-08-2010, 11:45 AM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
You mentioned that you found gear oil when you removed the drum. You didnt mention that you fixed that problem. I hope you did fix it and just did not mention it.
Anyway, if you did not fix it the oil will continue to leak. It is leaking from the axle seal at the end of the axle tube. I am assuming you have a C clip rear end like the 8.8 inch.
To replace the seal you have to remove the axle. In the C clip design this is a relatively easy task. I will not go into the details, but if you want them then reply or IM me.
Anyway, if you did not fix it the oil will continue to leak. It is leaking from the axle seal at the end of the axle tube. I am assuming you have a C clip rear end like the 8.8 inch.
To replace the seal you have to remove the axle. In the C clip design this is a relatively easy task. I will not go into the details, but if you want them then reply or IM me.