Ball joint and UCA questions?
#1
SoFlo5.0_4x4
Thread Starter
Ball joint and UCA questions?
Well, today on my drive home from work I felt this consistent bump coming from the front drivers side. Once I got home I lifted that corner turned the wheel, which turned pretty freely with little hesistation. I shook it side to side and up and down with almost no play. Tried pulling it out towards me, still pretty much almost no play. So I started checking all the boots for rips, and sure enough the upper control arm ball joint was completely ripped spitting out mad grease. I put on my fullsize spare to rule out the wheel and tire. And sure enough the bumping persisted. So, best I can guess is it has to be the ball joint. I'll post a video and you guys can tell me what you think.
So, I've replaced the lower control arms and springs on my '03 Mustang, which seemed way simpler though still not a fun task. Looking at this one though, it seems as if I have front strut spacers which would cause interference with pulling the UCA bolts. So do I have to drop the strut too? How involved is that? Will I pretty much have to pull everything off, or can I just like loosen the top bolts and pull the bottom one. Maybe with spring compressors, and have the LCA supported? Really trying to do this as simple as possible. I have access to air tools too.
Looked at the passenger side and that one is ripped too, though not as bad. So I'm still not sure the ball joint is the cause of this new sound. But after inspection I don't see what else would cause it. Well, any info and ideas are highly appreciated. Also on Rockauto, if it says upper left control arm is that drivers side? And upper right is passenger? Just wanted to be sure. Should I just do the $90 for OEM or spend like $200 for aftermarket?
I
So, I've replaced the lower control arms and springs on my '03 Mustang, which seemed way simpler though still not a fun task. Looking at this one though, it seems as if I have front strut spacers which would cause interference with pulling the UCA bolts. So do I have to drop the strut too? How involved is that? Will I pretty much have to pull everything off, or can I just like loosen the top bolts and pull the bottom one. Maybe with spring compressors, and have the LCA supported? Really trying to do this as simple as possible. I have access to air tools too.
Looked at the passenger side and that one is ripped too, though not as bad. So I'm still not sure the ball joint is the cause of this new sound. But after inspection I don't see what else would cause it. Well, any info and ideas are highly appreciated. Also on Rockauto, if it says upper left control arm is that drivers side? And upper right is passenger? Just wanted to be sure. Should I just do the $90 for OEM or spend like $200 for aftermarket?
I
#2
SoFlo5.0_4x4
Thread Starter
I also checked all clearances and looked for anything touching, hitting or rubbing and saw nothing. I pushed and bounced the corner a bit and didn't hear or feel it either. Here is the video I promised.
Last edited by SD_F1504x4; 09-28-2018 at 04:48 PM.
#3
Mark
iTrader: (1)
They look just like mine... I have new MOOG UCA's waiting to go on along with new coil overs/ tie rod ends/ LBJ/brakes/rotors/sway bar links and bushings... I don't hear any noise from mine. I too, have a 2.5" leveling spacer with will be replaced by the new Rancho Quick Lift coil overs.
#4
SoFlo5.0_4x4
Thread Starter
They look just like mine... I have new MOOG UCA's waiting to go on along with new coil overs/ tie rod ends/ LBJ/brakes/rotors/sway bar links and bushings... I don't hear any noise from mine. I too, have a 2.5" leveling spacer with will be replaced by the new Rancho Quick Lift coil overs.
#5
SoFlo5.0_4x4
Thread Starter
Well, today found my rear drivers tire had lost about 20psi over night. Took it to Discount Tire and found it had taken a bigass bolt in it (not screw or nail, a bolt maybe 5mm thick with fine thread, didn't see a head on it probably broke off). They patched it for free and its riding great now. I had already ordered a replacement Moog upper control arm off of Rockauto for $50 shipped, so I'll probably go ahead and put that on anyway. But I want to say the bump was caused by the bigass bolt in the tire and not the ball joints, though the boots are ripped and spitting grease and UCA's will need to be replaced regardless.
And yes, I had checked the air in my tires when this started. Rear was a little low maybe like 5-10 psi. But even after refilling it a couple of days ago the problem persisted.
I think I'm going to go ahead and get some new tires soon. Maybe General Grabber X3 or Nitto Ridge Grapplers, same 35x12.5x18 size.
And yes, I had checked the air in my tires when this started. Rear was a little low maybe like 5-10 psi. But even after refilling it a couple of days ago the problem persisted.
I think I'm going to go ahead and get some new tires soon. Maybe General Grabber X3 or Nitto Ridge Grapplers, same 35x12.5x18 size.