BrandyAnn86

I have a 93 F350 5 speed. I've had to replace the TPS sensor 4 times in the last couple months. I replaced it again about a week ago. Went and got gas and a couple miles down the highway it died and now will crank but not start.

Checked the fuel pump is engaging and swapped the fuel pump relay.

Replaced the ignition module and the plug wire going from it to the distributor.

Replaced the TPS again.

Checked the PCM relay.

Checked the battery connections including attempted to jump start it.

Replaced the starter.

Replaced any and all fuses in connection with the ignition, starter, and fuel pump.

I'm currently at a loss as to what's going on. The brand new ignition coil does not seem to be getting spark but everything I'm reading the PCM should be fine so not sure what is causing it not to get power. Any help would be appreciated! My next move is replacing the PCM but wanting to make sure there's not a simpler solution I am missing before doing that.

DarrinT04

why did you replace the starter if the previous one still turned the motor over? doesn't make sense. is there any spark at the plugs? check that

BrandyAnn86

Because a starter can still allow an engine to crank but not turn over. Also checked the spark plugs already (hence changed the plug wires from the distributor to the ignition module). I did however not include that the new ignition module is not getting spark.

DarrinT04

how does the distributor cap look?

JCR 56

In my world cranking and turning over is the same thing. An engine can turn over (crank), and not hit or start, I think that's what confuses some people.

KingDeleted

fang2015

I had a 1988 F-250 7.5 V-8 for many years and it eventually developed a reliability problem. It would die at times and eventually start, sometimes the cold starting at the house was an issue. Hot restart was an issue. Took it to dealer several times with "cannot duplicate". I figured it out myself. The vacuum lines connecting the cruise control were rotten although the cruise still worked. Crawling around the engine compartment and looking at things - those vacuum lines had holes, cracks and almost fell apart in my hands when I picked them up to inspect.

That's all it was and ran fine again for a long time with those hoses replaced. The rubber hose vacuum lines back then were not strong. Might be worth checking. The hoses will be rotten on underside where they lay back on the fender or anything else, so not apparent with visual inspection. Got to pick them up and look.

Swihart_Art

I have the same truck only in the F250 flavor... owned it for 10 years or so now... you mentioned you dropped the tank and replaced the sending unit... did you also replace the fuel pump that's in there?... that truck uses 2 pumps and I would also make sure to change the fuel filter (what a crappy design that was). If you have dual tanks then the filter design has the 2 lines running through it with the unscrew from bottom filter design that needs unbolted from the frame etc... not sure if heat would would cause the stalling with a fuel filter but surely the low pressure pump in the tank will falter with heat as most fuel pumps this is a symptom of a failing pump... heat...

It seems as though you've tried the other things like distr and ICM and these old trucks are prone to wiring gremlins due to age but as others have stated a multimeter, wiring diagram and of course the interwebs are great ways to chase down problems, this website has helped me TONS of the years with all of my Ford trucks...

JCR 56

It's been over a year, I'd say he either fixed it or sold it.