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-   -   5.4L Valve Cover Gasket Change??? (https://www.f150forum.com/f12/5-4l-valve-cover-gasket-change-279706/)

Wadmancpu 11-18-2014 07:34 PM

5.4L Valve Cover Gasket Change???
 
I have 2003 F-150 Heritage Edition Supercab with a 5.4L. My passenger side valve cover is leaking on the backside and onto the starter. I'm going to be changing the gaskets on both sides in a few days so I wanted to see if someone who has already done it could give me a rundown on the procedure and any tips that might be helpful. I'd also like to know how long it has taken people to complete both sides. Thanks!

JCR 56 11-19-2014 05:49 AM

You probably already have, but be sure it is the cam cover and not the head gasket that is leaking.

RLXXI 11-21-2014 06:38 PM

Those engine's are notorious for the head gasket to leak oil exactly where you say it is, the problem is on that corner the rear most head bolt breaks creating that leak.

Huge PITA job, on the remote chance it's just the valve cover gasket, the easiest and only way to do it is to support the engine so you can remove the motor mount(s) and let the engine rest on the cross member.


Good luck .

Wadmancpu 11-23-2014 04:13 PM


Originally Posted by Rnlcomp (Post 3820235)
Those engine's are notorious for the head gasket to leak oil exactly where you say it is, the problem is on that corner the rear most head bolt breaks creating that leak.

Huge PITA job, on the remote chance it's just the valve cover gasket, the easiest and only way to do it is to support the engine so you can remove the motor mount(s) and let the engine rest on the cross member.


Good luck .

Can the head gaskets be changed without removing the engine on the 5.4?

RLXXI 11-23-2014 07:03 PM


Originally Posted by Wadmancpu (Post 3823200)
Can the head gaskets be changed without removing the engine on the 5.4?



Yes, raise the cab off the frame, not as hard as it sounds but requires a lift to do so.


.

Wadmancpu 11-23-2014 08:22 PM


Originally Posted by Rnlcomp (Post 3823437)
Yes, raise the cab off the frame, not as hard as it sounds but requires a lift to do so.


.

Is it recommended to have the heads milled before reinstallation?

djfllmn 11-23-2014 08:32 PM


Originally Posted by Wadmancpu (Post 3823623)
Is it recommended to have the heads milled before reinstallation?

at the very least have them checked to make sure they are straight and true

RLXXI 11-24-2014 10:56 AM


Originally Posted by djfllmn (Post 3823645)
at the very least have them checked to make sure they are straight and true



Exactly this^ Don't want to spook you but there is a good chance the head will be warped on that corner where it's leaking oil. 50/50

JCR 56 11-24-2014 05:47 PM

I changed the head gaskets on my 97 4.6 with the motor in the truck and did not raise the cab. And yes, it's a hell of a job, but if I ever have to do it again, which I hope is never, I could do it in half the time.

Tileguy 06-17-2017 08:59 AM

I know that this is an older post but for future info. I have 2002 f150 5.4 with an
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...86663adcd8.jpg
oil leaking on the passenger rear of engine thought to be the infamous head gasket leak and still might be. But when I went to change the spark plugs I noticed 1 spark plug well on the passenger side and 3 on the driver side were filled with oil, which by all indications points to valve cover gaskets. I inspected them and tried to tighten them but saw no visible leaks and were tight already. So I embarked on the tough task of replacing them, here's what I found out about the process and am posting it in hopes it will help some one.
1st don't only change the gaskets but also the rubber grommets on the valve cover bolts as well. The bolt also hold the gasket in place. MAKE SURE to clean and replace the 2 dabs of rtv silicone near the front on each cover where the timing chain cover meets the head. In fact as I'm writing this I have to go out and redo the drivers side, I have a small leak at that rtv spot at the bottom.
Some tips I learned doing this procedure. On the drivers side, I did have to remove the mount for the power steering reservoir as well as the EGR tube which came off surprisingly well. I also removed the drivers side tire to gain better access to the far back bottom valve cover bolts.
On the passengers side thing are a little tougher. I took of the alternator harness as well as the 1st part of the mount for the the harness on the firewall and zip tied it off towards the battery. the 2 harnesses by the back of the cover are the WORST and can never get them out of the way completely. After I loosened all the cover bolts by moving the harness back and forth for top and bottom bolts, I used a bungee cord to pull them up and over towards the the driver side. I also removed the tire on the passenger side along with the wheel well cover, Which came over pretty easy and is a must to reinstall the valve cover. Because the 2 wiring harnesses are so in the way, when reinstalling the valve cover the gasket kept getting hung up on the the last bolts on the cam shaft. So by having the wheel well off I was able to lift the valve cover enough to get my fingers in there and to see to ensure that the gasket was properly in place.
I will go out now and redo the drivers side and add some more rtv sealant at the timing chain cover, I'm thinking that I rubbed it off or maybe even forgot it on that bottom joint. Also I hope that this is the source of my leak on the passenger side, I will give an update for those wondering.
One last tip while you have the covers and air cleaner off check out your throttle body, mine was filthy so I removed it and cleaned it along with the valve covers.


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