I though I would DIY my oil change, thinking it is a 4x4 maybe I can do this without jacking it up. I won't do that again, I will jack up the driver's side. I am a medium sized guy 5'-9" 160 Lbs. Too much shoulder blade walking with my face against the undercarriage.

There is a flange that I believe is for a skid plate, which my model doesn't have or this task would be considerably more difficult and time consuming. This makes accessing the plug a little tricky, I used a 14MM 6 point deep socket that eliminated the interference with the ratchet head to this flange. For the oil filter the cross member barely provides space to align the new oil filter to the threaded mounting pipe, it is hard to see the filter to mounting surface. I always carefully hand start the plug and filter to make sure they don't get cross threaded, that would be horrible!

The valve cover oil filling neck should have been designed so that it is angled up more vertically than to the side as it is. I managed to secure the oil funnel at a good angle using a Tye wrap to secure it, so I didn't have to keep holding it in place while putting oil in the engine.

 

I put a filler neck in from the mustang JR3Z-6763-A. Made adding oil a much easier experience in my 18 that I had. Looks kinda dumb because there is a flange on it for the engine cover to sit on but functionally a big help.

-Dan F

 

The front air dams were the limiting factor for me sliding underneath to get to the filter on my '14.

Run the truck up on ramps for better access, fortunately the pan drain is at the rear so no issues with fully draining, just challenges mopping and sopping and stopping up around Ford's Better Idea of the filter placement and related filter drain gutter which comes out both the front and back at the given ramp angle. I so hate ongoing drips and dribbles!

Use a step-stool and long ~2ft funnel which necks down to about 1/2-inch to fill while still up on the ramps. Wedges in place nicely for filling.

Eh, maybe there's a better way, but now that I've got this system routine worked out, not so bad. Just a long way from the simplicities of the '89 5.0L 4WD and '75 4.9L 2WD requiring no ramps, no stepstools, and fewer messes.

After some bad experiences with other vehicles at various oil change places, committed to do this myself for the quality of materials used and the knowledge it was done right at least within my expectations.

 

I did the shoulder blade walk in from by the driver's door, then I think my head was resting on the inside of the front air dam to see and access the oil filter. Feeling that today. I'll try jacking up the drivers side front corner next time. I agree with your "my quotes added" comment and don't trust the stealerships, perhaps a small independent shop that I know the owner. Not who knows which Tech. or what skill level and attitude.

 

2nd Oil Change Notes:

At least I don't have to do this often and avoided the Stealership I don't trust.

I jacked up the drivers side as high as my safety jacks would go and did this job with these tools. I used Valvoline Restore & Protect Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-30 (They are proud of that at $12/quart.) and a Mobile 1 Oil Filter – M1-212A This made a big improvement difference,

I don't move around under vehicles like I use to at age 65. At my age I am Old School, but I am always willing to look at new tools and methods to make things easier and better. I also did the tire rotation with some help, the 20" wheels and tires are heavy, the hardest part is putting them back on. Shops must have an overhead crane for some of the large off road tires to do this.

The 2 New School tools I really like are this rechargeable LED light and this electric impact driver. Not having an air hose and extension chord that always seem to be in the way is a big plus.


Oil Change Tools, 6 point socket.


Driver's side jacking points and jacking height.

Rechargeable LED Light

Cordless Electric Impact Driver

 

I have avoided this issue by being lazy and having my oil changed on my 22 5.0.
Going to have to try it myself when I’m due for my next one.
I miss my 02 7.3. Plenty of room for a big guy like me to change the oil without jacking it up

 

I built a wedge shape ramp out of 2x8’s (3 boards high but could get away with 2 on my oil changes), I do have a QuickJack that I use for my other vehicles but it’s an older 5000 lb lift and I’m not about to try and lift my truck with it!

My truck is not the V8 but the 3.5 EcoBoost and I’ve done one oil change and both front and rear diffs so far, still need to do the xfer case one transmission service.

I’m 68 but still do majority of my own maintenance, so I would recommend building a small ramp, it helps a lot!

 

Yeah my brother made one of these wooden ramps for a low sports car he use to have, they are good for providing more space under the vehicle by raising the whole front end as opposed to just one side. Where is the 3.5 EcoBoost oil filter located, the 5L is horizontal on the driver's side front of the engine (It's like the "design for shade tree mechanic difficulty department" worked on it.)

Do you have a photo of your ramps you could share, I am interested in the length dimensions through the height transition.

I have some metal ramps but for a car, but am Leary of going off the end of them with the bigger truck tires. If I make some ramps I think I will screw a rubber mat cut to size for the bottom so they don't slide so easily. Your 5000 lb lift QuickJack will handle the load, as your not lifting the whole truck off the floor with it. I am not looking forward to the messy transmission fluid bath for that service, but changing the filter as well, is the only way to go.

I also still do majority of my own maintenance, I need someone that knows what they are doing to work on my truck, as so many are unqualified Tech. parts changers as opposed to a real good Mechanic.

 

I’m out of town at the moment so I can’t take a photo but I’ll do so when I get home, it’s nothing exotic but it works.

The oil filter on the 3.5 screws on to the front of the engine just a little below and on the driver’s side of the crankshaft. A little difficult to see at first but Ford put a built in funnel below it so it drains quite nicely. Much easier and far less mess than my previous Honda Ridgeline and Ram 1500! As long as the previous oil change person didn’t overtighten the filter it’s not too bad at all.

And yes, you will want to put the rubber mat under it to help prevent sliding, I haven’t yet but I was using it against the lip of the garage entrance so I didn’t need it.
Im just siphoning the transmission fluid out this time so I won’t be dropping the pan, a lot less mess.

I just bought this truck w/ 34k miles but I believe it was used for towing so I want to freshen up the fluid. I’ll more than likely drop the pan and change the filter at 60k miles.

 

I made these ramps out of pressure treated 2x material. Four layers results in a lift of 6 inches which is plenty for an oil change. You can see the 1/2 inch lag bolts that hold the ramp part in place when fitted to the front part. Easy build and stouter than any plastic ones you can buy. FYI