Tiosso

Hahaha oops... Figured it was me you were talking about. I'm still learning, never did much mechanical work to my truck before but sucks running into these issues.

greasyknuckles

brake pads with the humps go on the inboard side, incorrect installation will cause
the rotor to get hot, also will affect pedal feel due to the caliper being cocked on
the mount because it hits the humps on the incorrectly installed pads. also make sure
you clean/file all the rust out of the grooves that the pads slide in making sure the
pads slide freely in the mounts. lastly I think your original problem was normal wear
caused by the pads sticking in the mounts especially if you live in the rust belt.

Rockjock3

Well, brakes will be a good way to cut your teeth. If you can change a tire you can change brake pads and rotors. If nothing else go and get you Haynes manual on your truck.

I used one many, many years ago (before the internet) to repair a manual transmission (something I had never done) on a car and it was great.

Tiosso

Problem has been solved.

I done goofed pretty good... Apparently when we were putting in the brake pads, we mixed up the inside/outside pads which was causing all the grief. On the bright side... I replaced my front calipers, rotors and pads and rubber brake hoses, so I think I'll be good for a while LOL.

Definitely a learning experience and enjoyed working on the truck. Reason for changing everything is because I had impacted a deer on the front left side and figured something might've been wrong anyways so just wanted to minimize the risk.

Drives great now.

Thanks for all of your guys' help.

Rockjock3

Glad to hear you got the problem taken care of. So, did you end up doing it all yourself?

RLXXI

The proper procedure is to open the bleeder valve before compressing the caliper piston, if you don't you risk forcing contaminated fluid into the ABS HCU. Very expensive piece of hardware.

Curious how you were able to remove all the air from the system after you replaced calipers/hoses. The system requires a special procedure using specialized computer equipment. Better known as an electronic service bleed.
.

Tiosso

Yes. Bought a ****load of tools.

I thought if you open the bleeder valve you risk siphoning air into the system. I did not open the bleeder, I simply compressed the piston.
I did some research on that and as far as I could tell... you only need the scan tool if you've drained the whole system, not just doing the front calipers. For safe measure though, I'll use it anyways and bleed each point again I suppose.

Toreador

Just for the info, I was getting a repair at the local dealer and they have a sample of aluminum bed material and steel showing a dent in each explaining how the differences are. It's with the display of the aluminum frame rails and other new F series truck improvements.

northflguy

2014 FX4 3.5EB owner here. I am also having some brake problems.

So about 4 months ago, I had a small shop replace the pads & rotors at all 4 wheels; mileage was at 42022. The guy who did them says that I really could have waited a while longer because all pads/rotors were still in good shape. I had purchased PowerStop stuff myself, and the guy was nice enough to only charge me $90 for the total install, so I just had him do it.

Important note to the story:I live in one north FL city and am only home on weekends. Mon-Fri I am at work, 2 1/2 hours south of my home. I had the brake work done back in July in the city where I work.

So about 10 days ago, I started noticing some bad noise coming from the front left wheel. After it was too late, I noticed that my expensive, drilled & slotted PowerStop rotor was badly scratched/scored at the left front wheel. At about this same time, I get the recall notice from Ford in the mail (for brake master cylinder). I tried to set up an appt. down where I work to get the recall work, but the local Ford dealer told me that they were out of brake fluid (yes, they actually told me this). When I called back about 5 days later, they said that they couldn't do it because they didn't have any master cylinders.

OK, so as of last weekend, when I was home, my plan was to take it back on Monday to the guy who did the job in July, and have him look at it to see why outer brake pad on that wheel wore down to nothing and scored the rotor. A problem arose on Monday morning when I called the shop: the guy's shop is closed ALL this week. Also, Monday night (yesterday), I was planning to drive 180 miles back home, as I have the rest of the week off.

So I scrambled around yesterday morning, and found another small shop close to my work, explained my predicament, and they said that they would work on it, and get it fixed before I headed home.

Alright, to end this story before it gets out of hand, this 2nd shop spent 3 hours closely scrutinizing my brake system (I was there the whole time watching them....very small shop [2 mechanics & the boss/owner]....trying to figure out why that pad with about 3000 miles on it wore down to nothing). They ended up putting new pads on both front wheels, and using a sanding wheel on a drill to "smooth out" the scored rotor. They poked around looking at the calipers. They even put it up on a lift (without the front wheels on it) after installation of the new front pads, and had a guy in it running the motor & wheels, and "garage testing" the brakes. It all looked good.

The boss/owner, who seemed very knowledgeable, and had about 30 years experience, took it for a test drive, and said all was good now.

So I paid up, got in, and very shortly thereafter noticed that there was a distinct noise coming from the front end...NOT when I apply the brakes, but just CONSTANTLY! The brakes worked great; the noise got louder as I went faster! It's not metal on metal like before, of course (new pads), but best I could describe it would be like tire noise from mudder tires...but the tires weren't changed, and I never had that noise before. I pondered whether to turn around and go back & say "WTF, over?" But I had been away from work for three hours (9a-12noon), and I had to get back.

So I bit the bullet, and drove back home last night, and thanked God that something didn't blow apart on my way home! LOL I was lucky enough to get an appt at the dealer here where I live (and where I bought the truck new in Sept 2014) for the brake recall on Friday. I'm hoping that during this recall work, they can figure out the noise. Til then, I plan to drive it as little as possible. We shall see what happens on Friday.

One question: I saw earlier in this thread that the pads need to go on specific sides (inside or outside), and during the work yesterday morning, I heard the mechanic pondering if the pads were specific to inside/outside. Do you think if these pads are on "backwards", this could be the cause of the noise? TIA for any answers.

jojofera

Hi I am new here. I have an F150 off road 2013. My cool fan keeps running even on a cold day. It will run for a good 20 mins. Can some tell me why. I am only at 51,000 klm.