Ranger_b0b

I actually really like the sliding rear window. With that open, and the Moonroof in the vent position, you get real nice airflow through the cab, without being overly loud and obnoxious.

Field_Strong

I'd just rather have the defrost more reliable than have the rear window. The truck is my daily driver/winter beater, so having the defroster working while it's auto starting in the cold months is great. It's also the only vehicle we own that doesn't have a spot in the garage.

Field_Strong

Of course the rear defrost was working today when I took my truck in to the dealership. Checked all the connections and tested with a voltmeter and everything checked out. He cleaned the contacts and adjusted the pins like I recommended, so we'll see what happens. I'll keep an eye on it and if it acts up again I was told to bring it by and they'll look at it immediately and get a warranty claim request going.

DaveRiedel

Gentlemen,
I finally brought me truck back into the shop and having read most of the thread I decided that what I am suggesting addresses most concerns, if not please let me know, hopefully the pictures speak for themselves.

If you dont know how to lower the rear seats you can find it on YouTube or on this site. There is a trick so be patient. You can sit on the folded seat but the latched can rip your pants or worse.

To test the rear defroster the engine must be running, at least in my case.

Pic one is the overview of the electrical path starting from the passengers side and grounding at the drivers. I am no longer convinced that the movable window switch is the loan source, I would strongly suggest checking the stabber plugs at each side of the window, pull them off carefully, squeeze them slightly together and reinsert. Careful around the window. Finally check the chassis ground as well, remove and check under the nut.

If you feel the window contractors are the source of your problems then notice picture 1a. Thanks to the good folks at the Hyatt Regency Shaumburg for the donation of a room key.

Looking at the picture I think i have all vital dims listed. I tried both solid and screened brass in both 1/2 and 3/4. In the end I prefer the screen and 3/4. I used a very high quality clear tape to hold everything together but there are many other methods as well. My calibers just broke so I can only say the preferred thickness should be around .020. it should be able to be bent by hand easily but not flaccid like tin foil. Copper foil is OK too.

If made to dimensions it will fit perfectly top to bottom and will push in until it clears the clear park of the glass, no further. You dont have to remove the black cover/cap. I found that a slight wedge angle helps it glide in. From there it can be taped or glued in place. It glues onto the glass of the stationary window, it does not move when the window opens.

I hope this helps and would like to hear from you about how it functions, we have no benefit of QC testing so no promises.

To start you can simply slide it in and test it, if it is not working let me know and I will guide you through what else may be wrong. If any pictures aren't clear enough I can send an email, just email me at gottalikedave@gmail.com


Dave

Feathermerchant

How did you remove the cover without breaking anything?
What did you add?

DaveRiedel

The cover was broken off along with the wipers that are soldered to the window so removal is iffy at best. It looks to me that the cover sliped down and clipped into place, it also had silicone glue applied. If I were going to try to remove one I would start with upward pressure, the glue might absorb and shocks from a hammer so maybe just pushing upward by hand. I doubt it removes without breaking but that isn't a big deal, you want to avoid tearing off the soldered piece if possible.

Because this was too risky for many I made up that little room key gadget so the cover could stay in place.

DaveRiedel

I started putting things back together and guess what the defroster stopped working. One cant simply take a volt meter to the circuit because it will shut itself down without the 4 volts feeding back to the processor.

So I jumped the relay making the entire circuit live. Now I could trace exactly to the bad connection and with no real surprise it still is at the window connection. Turns out the flat brass just didn't have enough grit to complete the connection.

I attached the modified drawing which for now seems to work, the two changes are the use of a brass screen and the shortening of the card, this allows an easier fit. Again I used a clear tape to attach the metal, you can use a quality electrical tape or some other method, do not let the two metal pieces touch!

Dave

Feathermerchant

So the brass pieces go over the original stationary connectors and provide extra thickness, increasing tension on the contacts?
Is it always the drivers side rear glass that breaks? The piece of glass that has the stationary contacts on it? The contacts that get really hot if they do not have a good connection? Like hot enough to expand the glass locally? Hmmm.

DaveRiedel

The window conducts 12 amps but 40 amps is the fuse, so in theory a bad connection could heat up the glass but my experience so far is the connectors are either working or not. I have seen pictures of the shattered glass but cant speak exactly to its origins.

My gizmo does provide a thicker connection and the screening will pretty much make sure of good connection, yeah it is possible that the screen might wear down the wiper contacts but without removing the cover and stiffening the wipers with solder and wire this is the best choice

DaveRiedel

I think Feathermerchant hit the nail on the head. I was thinking about the window shattering and how no heat is ever produced on my window when the circuit fails. The reason is that 4 volt feedback line, if a bad connection occurs the voltage will become unbalanced and lower the 4 volts to something else. The processor senses this and about a half second later it shuts down the defroster.

I am not a Ford expert but I would wager that F150s that experience the window shattering are older than 2011. I would bet the circuit used at the time had no feedback and thus allowed the defroster to remain on and heat up the glass.

So Ford prevented the shatter but never fixed the connection, I feel what I did will.