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Here is a picture of the USB adapter I used. I also included some pictures of the connection to the wiring harness as well as a picture of the adapter installed. I did remove the outer shell from the adapter and used some shrink wrap on it.
I really don't know what you should do with a 3 wire system. It appears it was replaced later on with 2 wires and that's what I have on my 2013.
I know this thread has been going for a while... But here is my experience. I am a disabled veteran with spinal cord injury. I need my side mirror defrost and rear window defrost because being in a wheelchair I cannot scrape glass or remove ice from the rear window. I live in Maine where there is a lot of ice and snow. So imagine my surprise when my rear window would not defrost anymore. I bought the ford premium care warranty when I got my truck. It stated that rear window heater is covered under warranty. I brought it to the dealer and the service manager says rear window glass is not covered. I was a Machanic for many years for the army so I argued the point. I told him that if they did not repair the defroster under warranty they would be talking to my lawyer due to breech of contract because it states in their warranty that it is covered. NEEDLESS TO SAY he said he would call me back. Ford charges $1400.00 to replace the rear window with electric slide.
He called me back... AND GUESS WHAT. They are replacing my window for the $100.00 deductible under the extended contract. The only way this won't work is if the window or the defroster lines are damaged... I hope this helps many people...
Please let me know if this worked for anyone else
Reese
Hello all, I have to revive this old post to get some input on my 2010.
I had my rear window explode last winter and had the local glass place replace it with the newer version power slider unit and now the power slider is working but I have lost defrost in the mirrors/rear glass and the funny part is the light comes on in the dash still.
Truck has auto a/c and navigation and I just haven't noticed that it hadn't worked until now cuz the light always came on and figured it worked until actually needing it on a humid morning.
Any ideas where to start? I think I used to hear a relay click in the SJB in the RH Kick panel when I hit the button before but can anyone confirm that?? I checked all fuses and everything is good in both fuse boxes and the only relay in the interior box works fine for the time delay power saving.
After reading the post from Rick this part pops out to me "If your old window had a 3 wire connector, cut the 2 smaller wires on the connector, then splice them together, remove the 2 wire harness that came with the new window, then place the power line (heavier black wire ) on to the upper terminal on the window , the lower angle terminal will remain empty"
I see my lower terminal isn't hooked up on my new window but I will have to take the seats out to see if they spliced the two together.
Ty for any input, going to find a tool to release the rear seat backs and go at that this weekend hopefully
Hello all, I have to revive this old post to get some input on my 2010.
I had my rear window explode last winter and had the local glass place replace it with the newer version power slider unit and now the power slider is working but I have lost defrost in the mirrors/rear glass and the funny part is the light comes on in the dash still.
Truck has auto a/c and navigation and I just haven't noticed that it hadn't worked until now cuz the light always came on and figured it worked until actually needing it on a humid morning.
Any ideas where to start? I think I used to hear a relay click in the SJB in the RH Kick panel when I hit the button before but can anyone confirm that?? I checked all fuses and everything is good in both fuse boxes and the only relay in the interior box works fine for the time delay power saving.
After reading the post from Rick this part pops out to me "If your old window had a 3 wire connector, cut the 2 smaller wires on the connector, then splice them together, remove the 2 wire harness that came with the new window, then place the power line (heavier black wire ) on to the upper terminal on the window , the lower angle terminal will remain empty"
I see my lower terminal isn't hooked up on my new window but I will have to take the seats out to see if they spliced the two together.
Ty for any input, going to find a tool to release the rear seat backs and go at that this weekend hopefully
Hi Robob, That sucks that you got a new rear window and still ended up with the same problem as us. I don't think there is a fix for this problem. I've been following this thread on this site and others and haven't found a fix to get the heater going again. All I saw was a fix to get the dash light to come on. Good luck and let us know if you end up finding a fix.
A 9/16th box-end wrench works great for unlatching the seat backs.
There are many replies in this post about where to check. I'd check the two connectors to ground on the slider, with the dash switch on, to see if you have 12V. Could be as simple as dirty contacts, since all is new.
A 9/16th box-end wrench works great for unlatching the seat backs.
There are many replies in this post about where to check. I'd check the two connectors to ground on the slider, with the dash switch on, to see if you have 12V. Could be as simple as dirty contacts, since all is new.
I figured it didn't work anyway so i pulled it off. By the way this rear window is one year old. 3rd one under warranty. I no longer have a warranty. I pulled it off and found dirt all over the contacts. I cleaned them off, slide it back on and now it works. I just need to find a way to glue it back on.
You pulled the cover and contacts off the window. I would first try a tube of liquid solder. Put a dab of solder on each of the four contacts by your right thumb in your picture. Then place it back over the contacts on the window, on the left side in your picture. Tape it and don't move the slider or remove the tape for a few days 9I'd say at least three to be safe).
IF that doesn't work take a heat gun and melt the glue holding the plastic cover on the contacts and separate the contacts from the cover (the piece in your right hand). Clean off the liquid solder with emory cloth on both sets of contacts; they should look like they do right now in your picture. I'm making the assumption that you can solder. Use your soldering iron and place a dab of solder on each of the four spots on the window contacts and do the same on each of the contacts you took the plastic off of. If you do this first, you have a better chance of not overheating the contacts and the glass. Then place the contacts over the contact points on the window and heat from the backside until the solder melts and holds the contacts in place.
So are these contacts supposed to slide across each other when the window opens and closes or are they supposed to be permanently connected?
They are permanently connected to the slider window and make contact when its closed. The picture is showing the contacts in the closed position. I opened the window and looked from the bed side and noticed the little finger contacts were black. So i figured that's why they did not work. You may be able to clean them off using something to get around the back side. I was just sick of them failing so i pulled it off. I am going to make the plastic cover removable for cleaning.
Could you use some 10ga flexible wire and make a permanent connection?
If the contacts are getting hot enough to damage the window, that may be a good option.
02-10-2016, 05:25 PM
I've been following this thread on this site and others and haven't found a fix to get the heater going again. All I saw was a fix to get the dash light to come on. Good luck and let us know if you end up finding a fix.
