Prof

Folks - I have read the threads I could find about the pinion seals on this forum, because I have one that is leaking like a river. I have topped up my differential several times, but the dark stain under my diff is getting bigger.

I just got off the phone with my local mechanic, and he indicated that he "wasn't set up to do that job" because the only way that a pinion seal job could be "done right" was to tear the whole apart and replace crush washers and that he "just wouldnt be interested in doing that, even dealerships have a hard time with that job..."

Is this true? I have seen threads about replacing the pinion seal DIY, and apart from the reverse puller, I didnt see anything that radical - but it certainly is something I would be willing to pay someone to do for me. Is this job deceptively more difficult than I thought? What should I expect to pay a dealership to fix my leaky pinion seal? Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

greasyknuckles

dealer should charge 1-1.5hrs labor, a very easy job. I have done several hundred
of them. too bad I live in northern MI. or I would do it for you. the seal is cheap
also. $20-$25 at most

Prof

Man, I wish you were here too! I would gladly pay to get it done right.

What about the crush washer thing? Is that accurate?

greasyknuckles

yes and no, once you have done a bunch you get a "feel" for it. the best way to
change it without collapsing the crush sleeve more than it already is (it was crushed
when the axle was assembled, this is how pinion bearing preload is set, and if overtightened can cause premature bearing failure. keep in mind your bearings are now use and worn so tightening slightly more won't hurt). using a chisel or scribe, mark the nut and pinion with a line. take the nut off while counting how many turns
it takes to remove it. use a puller (harmonic balance puller or similiar will work). then
use a screwdriver or seal puller may need a hammer and pop the seal out. I always
use some grease in the groove of the new seal to hold the spring in place since I
only have a couple seal installers and not the right one for either axle a f-150 came
with. I use a big 3/4" drive socket about 1 13/16" or so just about the same size as the outer part of the seal drive it in with a hammer and reinstall the flange (it will fit
tight. then install the nut counting the turns until the correct number is reached and
the lines line up. reinstall driveshaft and top off fluid. the driveshaft only has to be
disconnected from the axle. WARNING, make sure the wheels are blocked or the
truck is on stands before removing the driveshaft as the truck can roll away.