1992 $1500 later, it STILL runs like crap
#1
1992 $1500 later, it STILL runs like crap
I sure would appreciate any ideas or suggestions.
1992 F150, 2WD, straight six motor, manual trans, just over 200k miles.
Started running rough - hesitating at certain rpms (no tach so I couldn't tell ya exactly) and deteriorated to the point of little to no power, barely making it up any kind of incline even with downshifting. The problem seems to be worse when the engine is warm. Occasional check engine light illumination.
What I've done so far:
Took it to my local mechanic. Replaced cap, rotor, air/fuel filter, plugs, wires. Ran ok for a day. Then, replaced oxygen sensor. Took it back, they couldn't find anything wrong.
Took it to local Ford dealer. Replaced EGR valve, EGR solenoid. Ran ok for a day. Now worse than ever.
I'm at wits end and can't afford to keep throwing parts at it.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
George
1992 F150, 2WD, straight six motor, manual trans, just over 200k miles.
Started running rough - hesitating at certain rpms (no tach so I couldn't tell ya exactly) and deteriorated to the point of little to no power, barely making it up any kind of incline even with downshifting. The problem seems to be worse when the engine is warm. Occasional check engine light illumination.
What I've done so far:
Took it to my local mechanic. Replaced cap, rotor, air/fuel filter, plugs, wires. Ran ok for a day. Then, replaced oxygen sensor. Took it back, they couldn't find anything wrong.
Took it to local Ford dealer. Replaced EGR valve, EGR solenoid. Ran ok for a day. Now worse than ever.
I'm at wits end and can't afford to keep throwing parts at it.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
George
Last edited by Tumblemoose; 08-09-2012 at 12:36 PM.
#2
Keepin' the lights on!
Did anybody do a compression check? How is the timing? Might have skipped a tooth on the timing chain. Possible cat-converter plugged?
The following users liked this post:
Tumblemoose (08-09-2012)
#3
Thanks, Ron
Dealership said it was a strong motor, good compression in all. Cat converter is a good tip. I'll check that out. Could the timing thing show itself inconsistently? It definitely runs better, almost normal when the motor is cold, like in the mornings.
Thanks again.
George
Thanks again.
George
#4
Senior Member
An easy check on timing chain wear-battery disconnected, pull the dist cap off, rotate the harmonic balancer in the same direction in turns when the motor is running, stop when the timing pointer is at 20/30 on the balancer, this is taking any play in the chain out and giving you a starting point, if you move the the balancer back to line your numbers you have put slack into the chain and will get a false number, so start again if you need to. So you have the pointer at 20/30 for a reference point-now turn the crankshaft in the opposite direction watching the rotor in the distributor, the instant the rotor moves-STOP, read the number on the timing tab and this will show you how many degrees of slack you have in the chain, if memory serves me correctly 10 to 12 degrees is too much slack which will effect timing and advance. This might be why it runs better cold than hot.